I have started the renovation of the kitchen and would need some tips on how to create a good base for tiling on the walls. The walls currently consist of horizontal tongue-and-groove wood (about 20 mm) with masonite on top. The walls are fairly even and straight. My idea is to screw drywall on top of the masonite to create a good base for tiling. Is this an appropriate approach? If so, I also need tips on the following:
Jonas
- I plan to prepare the electrical wiring (installation will be done by a certified electrician) by making grooves for PVC pipes in the walls. How do I do this in the best way (wiring will run from the ceiling down to sockets, etc.)?
- Is it the right method to saw grooves (about 20 mm deep for standard pipes) in both drywall and wooden walls, and then fill them, or should I do this in another way?
- Since the wall will be built up a bit, it brings some problems with window and door trims. Any tips, or should I just try to make it look nice to the best of my ability?
Jonas
Plaster works well as a substrate for tiles.
First, run the pipes, drill holes for outlets/boxes in the plaster, and fasten the plaster.
You don't need to patch since you will be using adhesive later...
/N
First, run the pipes, drill holes for outlets/boxes in the plaster, and fasten the plaster.
You don't need to patch since you will be using adhesive later...
/N
If you mill through the plaster, you create a seam, and the substrate also needs to be milled for sockets, so there's a certain risk that the substrate will move later. Personally, I would have probably preferred to add an extra layer of plaster on top of the pipes and make holes for the sockets in that layer to avoid any potential cracks.
/Kent
/Kent
Thanks for the answers!
Double layers of drywall would have been good if I could get the window casings right... our windows are old and are part of the casing's profile. Double layers of drywall mean the casings will extend 26 mm further out, which becomes too difficult to handle carpentry-wise. If there are any tricks on how others have solved this, I would be grateful.
I also discovered that the masonite board nailed on top of the raw planks was bad, so it was removed. Can I screw drywall directly onto the raw planks, or do I need to apply new masonite?
Best regards,
Jonas
Double layers of drywall would have been good if I could get the window casings right... our windows are old and are part of the casing's profile. Double layers of drywall mean the casings will extend 26 mm further out, which becomes too difficult to handle carpentry-wise. If there are any tricks on how others have solved this, I would be grateful.
I also discovered that the masonite board nailed on top of the raw planks was bad, so it was removed. Can I screw drywall directly onto the raw planks, or do I need to apply new masonite?
Best regards,
Jonas
Two of the walls are exterior walls and the house is from 1929, which means there isn't much insulation, basically none!
I would be grateful if I could get help with the following questions:
1. Is the fiberboard necessary or can I just go directly with plasterboard? Has it served any purpose other than smoothing the surface?
2. Vapor barrier, do I need it (there hasn't been one). If needed, how do I apply it?
Thanks in advance!
Jonas
I would be grateful if I could get help with the following questions:
1. Is the fiberboard necessary or can I just go directly with plasterboard? Has it served any purpose other than smoothing the surface?
2. Vapor barrier, do I need it (there hasn't been one). If needed, how do I apply it?
Thanks in advance!
Jonas