Building Materials and Construction Technology
valter53: What will you use the space for? How far apart are the rafters? The easiest is to lay a 22 mm chipboard floor. It requires joists at cc 60 cm.
petsor: Does anyone know what HUSAMA says about the tolerances for wall bulging? /Petsor
Paladin: Insulation on the inside is not recommended. The rule of thumb is "always insulate on the cold side." Otherwise, you risk moisture condensation inside the wall. Although it's not a panic situation when you have lightweight concrete blocks, it still feels completely wrong. Instead, place the insulation on the outside. Use mineral wool boards with plaster mesh and a thick plaster system, for
Paladin: Abiträ can create any moldings - even if they are not in the catalog. I have personally had a molding made for an old entrance door with angles and dimensions in all directions. They solved it by getting a sample piece and then adjusting their molding machine. It cost a fortune per meter, but it turned out exactly like before... Good luck!
MathiasS: [citat] Not only fewer splinters, the sheets are significantly lighter as well. Easy to handle on your own. OSB is a bit cumbersome to handle alone.
TN: [citat] Search the forum and you'll find that the topic has been covered before. Basically, a modern slab on the ground is constructed as follows: that is to say concrete insulation (frigolit) washed macadam geotextile fabric
snuttjulle: Of course, it is possible to continue insulating on the outside. The reason it is often done on the inside is that the house can look a bit odd if the base of the house becomes wider than the facade. And then you may not want to add this to the outside.
gaia: I have the same opinion as Byggaren. I'm wondering how costs are divided in a wall of wood and plaster compared to one of stone material. Isn't it that a wood wall requires more in labor cost than in material cost? I would rather pay more for material than for labor. The material remains in the house as lasting value ;). Beware of solutions adopted from Europe where they are applied to add
greebfighter: check with a ventilation company if they have any solution to the problem, I had 2 holes 210 side by side that they were supposed to go through, fixed with a cover plate
elmgren: I wonder if there is anyone who has bought any bathroom furniture from Importlaget; many have bought their bathtubs, but has no one bought their furniture? I would appreciate information regarding delivery, quality, etc. Maybe this topic is included in some thread, but I haven't found it. Marcus :-?
drx: Buy a stylish piece of wood, such as oak, and oil it. Then you can attach it to the wall with x number of plugs and screws. Then just attach the towel rack to it. Fill the existing holes with wet room filler Let it cure properly Buy a piece of oak or another nice wood material and oil or paint it Attach this with x number of proper screws and plugs to the wall, also recommend supplementing with
Mariette: Hello, this weekend I am going to build a walk-in closet in my hallway. I would like tips on what dimensions of materials I need? There are three walls, so I am going to partition off and make a sloped roof. I want to cover it in pärlspont. Grateful for any advice!
ikeahantverkaren: http://special.sut.leon.se/viewpages2.asp?Product=1&ArticleID=214&tree=R1 it is blue in the picture and called a wallplug...torsmanplug is a quality plug that has been around for a long time...red plug is for 6mm drill holes..brown is for 8mm drill holes..I would choose one of these two..just make sure to have a thick screw so that it expands the plug properly..for the red plug, for
ByggaNytt: Has the same construction (apart from spike rule 22mm and that there is a 45*45 behind the outer plasterboard which the spike rule is in) and I have used 3" nails for the bottom board and 4" for the battens. Shouldn't be a problem for you, but feel free to test with a provisional spike rule/bottom board and see what happens!
bjoho: Thanks for the help! Steffen: Then you've come as far as I hope to have in a couple of weekends! ;D I'll skip the asfaboard for now and leave the joists open. I thought snow might blow in and cause trouble with the exterior gypsum, but as long as there's proper ventilation...
Bob_the_builder: [citat] Maybe he has extra floor gypsum...? It's often the reason why some odd questions are asked here on the forum.
zankan: [citat] And then wood is just as bad, even worse... Everything can mold at 85% RH, although not at low temperatures, but anything is possible. And I don't really want to believe that the plasterboard itself would be damaged by winter temps, etc....but one could be wrong....
Magnus_Nordmark: In short: kN/m is distributed load per LENGTH [meter] kN/m2 is distributed load per AREA [square meter] For example, the self-weight of a beam is given in weight per length, but the self-weight of a slab is given in weight per area. The same applies if one is to load a beam with distributed load, then maximum load in force per unit length is used. If it concerns the maximum load of a concrete
MathiasS: Heard about someone who built, the only problem was that it felt a bit uneasy when it started to blow hard. Someone probably saw their 1 1/2 floor sail away like an autumn leaf in a nightmare.... This is surely a manageable problem... ;) Otherwise, there's this thing about fire to consider. The foam plastic "smells" a bit unpleasant when it starts to burn.
Eld: A couple of days :o There is a lot of work with formwork and reinforcement to build a cast-in-place concrete wall. Not to mention mixing it yourself if you were planning that. A couple of weeks rather than a couple of days...
Svante_S: Thank you, that was exactly what I needed to know. Now it's "just" a matter of measuring-thinking-drawing, measuring again and redrawing a few times before I'm satisfied. If I'm not satisfied with the thoughts, I guess I'll have to buy a ... ;) The link was great!
Solrosen: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1130091838;start=0]Isolering[/link] by MathiasS.
pappskallen: I used 45*45 as framework wood with OSB on both sides and gypsum on top, which gives you about 95 in thickness for the wall, which suited the door frame well. If you are going to do that, make sure to get reasonably straight studs so the wall doesn't warp. OSB is a type of plywood (with large chips in it) but with more glue, and it is usually 11mm thick.
zankan: [citat] By crooked joints, I didn't mean drastically crooked, just that they are not 100% because it's more or less impossible. But they should be so you don't get annoyed by it... MBE 2 is a chapter in hus-ama. It specifically deals with ceramic tiles on floors. The tolerances should be listed in the MBE chapter as the first point before MBE.1 and MBE 2, possibly it's already under MB but I
Gustav1: You don't need to worry about that. It has to be the right environment for it to mold, and after you've thrown out the wet spånskivor, the problem is out of the world.
Badger: Know some who have done similar and will do it myself as well. So, you can make the fastening as you like, but remember that glass is a "dead" material and wood is "living" so you need to leave space for internal movement between the glass and the wood. Single glass is sufficient, even for sound. It's possible to use standard glass but would probably recommend tempered, to withstand minor impacts.
Efraim: No, a moisture content of 14% is not high. Chemical odor can come from... chemical treatment, e.g., pressure impregnation. If it bothers you, you can try ozone treatment.
Magnus_Nordmark: It is probably a cast sole that the foundation stands on. Dig a little more and investigate the matter.