I'm looking into using Peva45 in my floor structure and they're suggesting I install a HEA350 as a supporting beam in the middle.
A couple of questions about this. This beam is quite expensive; I saw a price of 16.6 per kilo for HEA340, which weighs 105 kg per meter, and it's apparently only sold in 10-meter lengths. This adds up to a price of over 17,000 + VAT, which feels hefty for a beam, but maybe that's to be expected?
I also saw in a table that the IPE beam is clearly lighter, could one replace HEA with IPE in such a floor structure (composite floor with profiled sheet)?
Yes, there will be structural drawings made for this, I'm just brainstorming a bit for now.
A couple of questions about this. This beam is quite expensive; I saw a price of 16.6 per kilo for HEA340, which weighs 105 kg per meter, and it's apparently only sold in 10-meter lengths. This adds up to a price of over 17,000 + VAT, which feels hefty for a beam, but maybe that's to be expected?
I also saw in a table that the IPE beam is clearly lighter, could one replace HEA with IPE in such a floor structure (composite floor with profiled sheet)?
Yes, there will be structural drawings made for this, I'm just brainstorming a bit for now.
Of course, you can take an IPE instead.
But it will be significantly higher!
Otherwise, it won't have the same load-bearing capacity.
If you are going to compare in your table, you should choose an IPE that has a larger moment of inertia
(often denoted by I) than HEA340.
The savings in kronor will probably be a bit less then.
But it will be significantly higher!
Otherwise, it won't have the same load-bearing capacity.
If you are going to compare in your table, you should choose an IPE that has a larger moment of inertia
(often denoted by I) than HEA340.
The savings in kronor will probably be a bit less then.
Ok, I thought that they might be equivalent in load-bearing capacity but that IPE was "flimsier" sidewaysanaitis said:
Does my price estimate for the beam seem reasonable otherwise?
Hello Peter.holm
I have personally used Peva 45 in my joists over the basement area and reinforced a 10-meter wall without buttresses with just HEB beams. (a slightly thicker material than HEA)
Where I buy from, I can order the exact length, and they purchase from Tibnor.
I think you can buy a very cost-effective beam or possibly use 2 slimmer ones for the same purpose, which I did.
One HEA 24 became 2 HEB 10, but I took 3 just to be safe, built much less in height and probably also cheaper.
Best regards, jawen
I have personally used Peva 45 in my joists over the basement area and reinforced a 10-meter wall without buttresses with just HEB beams. (a slightly thicker material than HEA)
Where I buy from, I can order the exact length, and they purchase from Tibnor.
I think you can buy a very cost-effective beam or possibly use 2 slimmer ones for the same purpose, which I did.
One HEA 24 became 2 HEB 10, but I took 3 just to be safe, built much less in height and probably also cheaper.
Best regards, jawen
Jawen, how did you handle the edge of the slab? I've understood that it's a good spot to lose heat...
I was thinking you could place a 100 mm EPS at the very edge to cast against, it would of course need support during the casting process. Then mesh and plaster the EPS on the outside, would that work?
I'll have a garage under the floor slab, and 45 mm insulation under the slab should be enough to prevent radiant heat downward, any opinion on this?
I was thinking you could place a 100 mm EPS at the very edge to cast against, it would of course need support during the casting process. Then mesh and plaster the EPS on the outside, would that work?
I'll have a garage under the floor slab, and 45 mm insulation under the slab should be enough to prevent radiant heat downward, any opinion on this?
You should probably have 95mm insulation under the joist to prevent the heat from moving downwards too much, that's the advice I got. As for the outer edge, I built 120mm leca as the facade, then 70mm cellplast S100, and then the cast joist/Peva 45 100mm rests on the constructed basement wall, i.e., 290mm as the lecablocks in the basement are. It couldn't be done better as I didn't want the cellplast all the way out, so I hope it turns out well.
But my joist was only supposed to be 15cm thick and since leca builds 20cm and I had Alba-beams that build 20cm on large parts of the slab, I had to nail forms and underpour on a 50mm concrete lip on the surface where the Peva sheet would rest. (a hell of extra work), but it was probably very good as the pressure from the joist is evenly absorbed by this K55 concrete lip, it would probably not have felt as good to have 67 tons laying directly on the leca even if that also works.
Best regards, jawen
But my joist was only supposed to be 15cm thick and since leca builds 20cm and I had Alba-beams that build 20cm on large parts of the slab, I had to nail forms and underpour on a 50mm concrete lip on the surface where the Peva sheet would rest. (a hell of extra work), but it was probably very good as the pressure from the joist is evenly absorbed by this K55 concrete lip, it would probably not have felt as good to have 67 tons laying directly on the leca even if that also works.
Best regards, jawen
Yes, it feels like you want a proper support for the floor on the Lecan. Preferably, maybe you cast U-tracks in the Lecan and the floor at the same time? So that the plates go in on at least half of the Lecan anyway.
So plastering directly on an EPS-strip isn't ideal? Can you use something to lay on top of the EPS, a thin Leca or maybe Minerit?
So plastering directly on an EPS-strip isn't ideal? Can you use something to lay on top of the EPS, a thin Leca or maybe Minerit?
I have discussed this with many, even though I actually know what works or not.
And it probably won't turn out well to plaster on eps/cellplast no matter how you do it, the best option is probably to glue a thin mineritskiva (as long as possible) that you can plaster thinly, but you will probably get seams anyway unfortunately since the materials move differently.
I struggled to solve it so I got a lightweight concrete/leca surface in the entire floor beam layer, so the entire facade of the floor beam layer looks the same without seams.
Best regards, Jawen
And it probably won't turn out well to plaster on eps/cellplast no matter how you do it, the best option is probably to glue a thin mineritskiva (as long as possible) that you can plaster thinly, but you will probably get seams anyway unfortunately since the materials move differently.
I struggled to solve it so I got a lightweight concrete/leca surface in the entire floor beam layer, so the entire facade of the floor beam layer looks the same without seams.
Best regards, Jawen