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4 replies
18k views
4 replies
Casting a post securely. How to proceed?
Hope this is the right place, if not, I hope for understanding, or that some mod moves the thread!
I'm working on some things at the summer cottage.
Going to set up a "run line" in the garden for our dog.
This requires setting up 2 posts, about 2-2.5m, at each end.
These posts need to be concreted in. And they need to be secure.
It's not like we're securing a grizzly bear, so I'm not too worried about the post being pulled up directly ;P
But there's a risk that the post will start to "wobble" over time due to the load. Meaning it will sway side to side more and more.
How should the foundation be concreted for this, for the best long-term stability?
I want to avoid it becoming loose and wobbly in the first year.
Should I dig a hole and pour directly and throw in reinforcement, should I buy pre-made footings, etc...
How big and deep is needed?
Hoping for an answer!
/Tobbe
I'm working on some things at the summer cottage.
Going to set up a "run line" in the garden for our dog.
This requires setting up 2 posts, about 2-2.5m, at each end.
These posts need to be concreted in. And they need to be secure.
It's not like we're securing a grizzly bear, so I'm not too worried about the post being pulled up directly ;P
But there's a risk that the post will start to "wobble" over time due to the load. Meaning it will sway side to side more and more.
How should the foundation be concreted for this, for the best long-term stability?
I want to avoid it becoming loose and wobbly in the first year.
Should I dig a hole and pour directly and throw in reinforcement, should I buy pre-made footings, etc...
How big and deep is needed?
Hoping for an answer!
/Tobbe
Hi
A 300:- earth auger from jula.se, then you can make a three or four-legged footing, you know.
http://www.geocities.com/skurupsborren/plintgjutning.html
As for reinforcement, I usually cut it longer than the hole and then nail it into the ground at the bottom of the hole so it stands centered by itself. With a four-legged footing as shown in the picture, it's good to weld or alternatively tie the four irons together properly at the top before casting. Possibly a fifth leg straight down into the footing where you cast down a galvanized water pipe of the right length to become your post.
A 300:- earth auger from jula.se, then you can make a three or four-legged footing, you know.
http://www.geocities.com/skurupsborren/plintgjutning.html
As for reinforcement, I usually cut it longer than the hole and then nail it into the ground at the bottom of the hole so it stands centered by itself. With a four-legged footing as shown in the picture, it's good to weld or alternatively tie the four irons together properly at the top before casting. Possibly a fifth leg straight down into the footing where you cast down a galvanized water pipe of the right length to become your post.
Interesting method!ppalm said:
But what they write in the comment is inaccurate:
"Since the concrete rests everywhere against soil that is not refilled or
disturbed, the plinth is not affected by frost."
This is not true. Possibly, one might think that the four legs hold the plinth
better than traditional plinths during frost movements?
I would have driven a 1200mm pipe into each end and placed a post on top.
It sits rock solid, rarely moves, looks nice, etc.
This method is used when installing fences, among other things.
If the ground consisted solely of sand down to a meter deep, this method would obviously not be of interest.
Regards
It sits rock solid, rarely moves, looks nice, etc.
This method is used when installing fences, among other things.
If the ground consisted solely of sand down to a meter deep, this method would obviously not be of interest.
Regards
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