As a new homeowner, I plan to renovate the inside of the house soon.
I've never done this before and wanted to check with you if I'm missing any steps and get some tips along the way.
First, I'm thinking about the surface in one room.
Currently, there's wallpaper directly on the chipboard.
Here's my plan for the bedroom:
* Spackle the ceiling, which is uneven (coarse filler, sand, and then fine filler) better to drywall?
* Paint the ceiling
* Tear down loose wallpaper
* Drywall with 6mm renovation drywall
* Make holes for outlets and switches (there are outlets where needed, no need for new ones)
* Spackle seams with fine filler
* Sand the spackle
* Put up wallpaper
* Install baseboards
* Install ceiling moldings
* Install new outlets and switches
What do you do with windows when you've added drywall? There will be a gap between the trim and the frame.
I've never done this before and wanted to check with you if I'm missing any steps and get some tips along the way.
First, I'm thinking about the surface in one room.
Currently, there's wallpaper directly on the chipboard.
Here's my plan for the bedroom:
* Spackle the ceiling, which is uneven (coarse filler, sand, and then fine filler) better to drywall?
* Paint the ceiling
* Tear down loose wallpaper
* Drywall with 6mm renovation drywall
* Make holes for outlets and switches (there are outlets where needed, no need for new ones)
* Spackle seams with fine filler
* Sand the spackle
* Put up wallpaper
* Install baseboards
* Install ceiling moldings
* Install new outlets and switches
What do you do with windows when you've added drywall? There will be a gap between the trim and the frame.
Hello,
What is the framework of the house otherwise? If it's, for example, a stone or brick framework, then having a plastered surface on the interior can be both convenient and stylish.
Apart from that:
* Spackle the ceiling which is uneven - it's really labor-intensive to fully spackle a ceiling. If ceiling height isn't crucial, I would use plasterboard or beadboard. If you use beadboard, paint the tongues before installation.
* Paint the ceiling - this has to be done in any case. Consider overlap, and if you use beadboard, use a stain-blocking primer or varnish the knots.
* Tear down loose wallpaper - a tough job, but it depends on the age and type of wallpaper. Full spackling is an alternative. Many use wallpaper remover/steamer. Available for a few hundred at most places.
* Spackle seams with fine spackling compound - don't forget to use painter's tape or fiberglass tape to prevent cracking.
* Sand down spackle - make sure to plastic wrap doorways EVEN if it's a door to other rooms and seal the ventilation. Sanding dust gets everywhere. BUY a cheap vacuum cleaner or invest in a construction vacuum as sanding dust will ruin your regular one.
Depending on your standards for your construction, it might be wise to check if you need to align and level the ceiling/walls and adjust accordingly before starting out.
Another tip is to have a consistent theme throughout the house, meaning which materials and so on you want in the rest of the house. But as mentioned, it also depends on your requirements.
Good luck,
What is the framework of the house otherwise? If it's, for example, a stone or brick framework, then having a plastered surface on the interior can be both convenient and stylish.
Apart from that:
* Spackle the ceiling which is uneven - it's really labor-intensive to fully spackle a ceiling. If ceiling height isn't crucial, I would use plasterboard or beadboard. If you use beadboard, paint the tongues before installation.
* Paint the ceiling - this has to be done in any case. Consider overlap, and if you use beadboard, use a stain-blocking primer or varnish the knots.
* Tear down loose wallpaper - a tough job, but it depends on the age and type of wallpaper. Full spackling is an alternative. Many use wallpaper remover/steamer. Available for a few hundred at most places.
* Spackle seams with fine spackling compound - don't forget to use painter's tape or fiberglass tape to prevent cracking.
* Sand down spackle - make sure to plastic wrap doorways EVEN if it's a door to other rooms and seal the ventilation. Sanding dust gets everywhere. BUY a cheap vacuum cleaner or invest in a construction vacuum as sanding dust will ruin your regular one.
Depending on your standards for your construction, it might be wise to check if you need to align and level the ceiling/walls and adjust accordingly before starting out.
Another tip is to have a consistent theme throughout the house, meaning which materials and so on you want in the rest of the house. But as mentioned, it also depends on your requirements.
Good luck,
Hello, thanks for the response.
It's a wooden house with paneling.
After removing a bit in the room, I've noticed that some chipboard isn't aligned properly and that the wall between rooms seems to be poorly framed, very shaky wall.
I'm thinking of taking down the chipboard there and framing inside, adding insulation and a new type of OSB board on the outside.
If I am going to plasterboard, I don't need to remove the wallpaper underneath, right?
It's a wooden house with paneling.
After removing a bit in the room, I've noticed that some chipboard isn't aligned properly and that the wall between rooms seems to be poorly framed, very shaky wall.
I'm thinking of taking down the chipboard there and framing inside, adding insulation and a new type of OSB board on the outside.
If I am going to plasterboard, I don't need to remove the wallpaper underneath, right?
Hello,
Is the entire wall swaying or just individual panels? You can lath outside the chipboard to "tie together" the framework under the chipboard, but it depends a bit on where the problem lies. The likelihood is probably high that you still have the sway due to the basic construction. Then there's the question of whether you want to extend the wall by a total of 7-8 cm, which is what it would be with lath and gypsum.
How much wall are we talking about? Is it load-bearing? Then it might be a bit tricky and risky with sway.
Generally, I wouldn't remove the wallpaper unless it's moldy, has other damage, is made of plastic, or if you have unlimited time.
Building is also a learning process that takes a lot of time but not so much money in relation to what you learn if you were to strip down to the framework and build up again. Then you'll be able to put up a wall in no time, fix things for yourself, and help the neighbor or in a friend's summer cottage in exchange for other services, etc., etc.
Is the entire wall swaying or just individual panels? You can lath outside the chipboard to "tie together" the framework under the chipboard, but it depends a bit on where the problem lies. The likelihood is probably high that you still have the sway due to the basic construction. Then there's the question of whether you want to extend the wall by a total of 7-8 cm, which is what it would be with lath and gypsum.
How much wall are we talking about? Is it load-bearing? Then it might be a bit tricky and risky with sway.
Generally, I wouldn't remove the wallpaper unless it's moldy, has other damage, is made of plastic, or if you have unlimited time.
Building is also a learning process that takes a lot of time but not so much money in relation to what you learn if you were to strip down to the framework and build up again. Then you'll be able to put up a wall in no time, fix things for yourself, and help the neighbor or in a friend's summer cottage in exchange for other services, etc., etc.
It is a wall that I understand was built at a later time than the house was built.
The house is a box model with rafters across the entire box, so I don't see that it would be load-bearing walls indoors, except for the outer walls.
I think the swaying wall is simply poorly built, and the easiest thing will be to take down the particleboard and reinforce inside.
The particleboards, from what I can see, are very thick, so it will probably look nice when I replace them with something thinner, OSB and renovation plasterboard.
This will certainly be a learning process, which I look forward to.
I plan to post some pictures in the thread, but Felia (Telia) decided we should change address and disconnected our phone and broadband on Monday d^_^b :S. And I haven't managed to get them to fix it back, despite 3 calls. Damn call center youngsters.
The house is a box model with rafters across the entire box, so I don't see that it would be load-bearing walls indoors, except for the outer walls.
I think the swaying wall is simply poorly built, and the easiest thing will be to take down the particleboard and reinforce inside.
The particleboards, from what I can see, are very thick, so it will probably look nice when I replace them with something thinner, OSB and renovation plasterboard.
This will certainly be a learning process, which I look forward to.
I plan to post some pictures in the thread, but Felia (Telia) decided we should change address and disconnected our phone and broadband on Monday d^_^b :S. And I haven't managed to get them to fix it back, despite 3 calls. Damn call center youngsters.
Don't know if it's just me but I think 6mm renovation plasterboard is useless...
Expensive, doesn't handle screws well, causes a small bump around the screw
If possible, I'd opt for 13mm plasterboard, easier to spackle, better at soundproofing between rooms, removes minor wall dips
Otherwise, roll the walls with Beckers Binder (expensive) to bind the wallpaper layers, wide spackle the walls, sand and wallpaper
Make sure to buy 10kg buckets of spackle, get 3-4 different sizes of real spatulas and a jointed sanding handle and a real (pro) extension pole that doesn't flex
Expensive, doesn't handle screws well, causes a small bump around the screw
If possible, I'd opt for 13mm plasterboard, easier to spackle, better at soundproofing between rooms, removes minor wall dips
Otherwise, roll the walls with Beckers Binder (expensive) to bind the wallpaper layers, wide spackle the walls, sand and wallpaper
Make sure to buy 10kg buckets of spackle, get 3-4 different sizes of real spatulas and a jointed sanding handle and a real (pro) extension pole that doesn't flex
I would start by removing the wallpaper (there are many threads on how to proceed). If it's difficult to remove the wallpaper, then use a stain-blocking paint. Then you fill and sand until you're satisfied. After that, start by painting the ceiling and then move on to the walls.
6mm plasterboard is an emergency solution that I would avoid as much as possible!
6mm plasterboard is an emergency solution that I would avoid as much as possible!
Renovation plasterboard can be glued with construction adhesive. This way, you avoid problems with screw heads.
Exciting as heck! It can be as fun as anything.
Some general tips from personal experience:
Tip 1: Don't do it with a pregnant woman in the house.
T2: Think through what you are going to do and in what order and then take one thing at a time.
T3: You can do a lot yourself if you have to, but it's great if you have someone with you to discuss with, who might also have some experience to share.
T4: Expect things to pop up that you hadn't counted on.
T5: Don't skimp when buying materials like paint, filler, and tools. Very often, you get what you pay for.
* Fill the ceiling which is uneven (coarse filler, sand, and then fine filler) better to plasterboard?
- As someone said: working on the ceiling is a hassle. Moreover: Even if you plasterboard, there's a lot of filling and sanding. Sure, you get better at it the more you do it, but it's still not great fun to fill and sand the ceiling. If you skimp on screws to reduce filling, you're sure to get cracks in the joints, even if you have joint tape (which you definitely should have). Besides, it's darn tricky to plasterboard a ceiling if you're alone.
* paint the ceiling
- No big deal. Just make sure the roller is "coarse" enough in the nap. See T5
* Tear down loose wallpaper
* Plasterboard with 6mm renovation plasterboard
- Does it need to be torn down? If you're using renovation plasterboard, it's unnecessary work unless it's "muggy" and shabby. Smooth out unevenness with a filler, then it's just a matter of plasterboarding. Agree with the person who said renovation plasterboard can be a pain when it comes to filling over screw heads. (That might be due to my amateurish screwing, I don't know. I am somewhat biased on the matter)
* make holes for sockets and switches (sockets are where needed, no need for new ones)
- Then you'll probably need to change the boxes, at least if you've plasterboarded? Perhaps it's a good time for professional help?
* fill joints with fine filler
- Yeah... filling is super fun. A little tip if you think, "Eh, that little thing won't show later..." you'll end up annoyed for 8 years until it's time to repaint that the little thing was visible after painting. Sure, OTHERS might not see it, but YOU know where every miss and flaw is, and see them clearly. (Yes, if you're like me anyway.)
* sand down filler
- Moderately fun.
* wallpaper
- Now it starts to get fun. Think about where you'll hang the first strip, then it goes smoothly (at least in a square room without windows, doors, and slanted walls)
* set skirting boards
* set ceiling moldings
With a decent miter saw, it shouldn't be a problem except: the moldings might crack at the nail head. I don't know if it's because I bought the cheap, pre-painted ones from byggmax (sigh... see T5) but anyway. My dear father (RIP) advised that if you "nip off" the tip of the nail, the molding won't crack. You simply use wire cutters to snip off the nail tip. It works, but it's a heck of a chore if you have 500 nails to snip.
* set new outlets and switches
- As before. Make sure the power is off, and if you have ANY DOUBT whatsoever about what you're doing: Get a professional.
If you are going to tear down and reinforce the shaky wall:
Put some energy into soundproofing it while you're at it.
Some general tips from personal experience:
Tip 1: Don't do it with a pregnant woman in the house.
T2: Think through what you are going to do and in what order and then take one thing at a time.
T3: You can do a lot yourself if you have to, but it's great if you have someone with you to discuss with, who might also have some experience to share.
T4: Expect things to pop up that you hadn't counted on.
T5: Don't skimp when buying materials like paint, filler, and tools. Very often, you get what you pay for.
* Fill the ceiling which is uneven (coarse filler, sand, and then fine filler) better to plasterboard?
- As someone said: working on the ceiling is a hassle. Moreover: Even if you plasterboard, there's a lot of filling and sanding. Sure, you get better at it the more you do it, but it's still not great fun to fill and sand the ceiling. If you skimp on screws to reduce filling, you're sure to get cracks in the joints, even if you have joint tape (which you definitely should have). Besides, it's darn tricky to plasterboard a ceiling if you're alone.
* paint the ceiling
- No big deal. Just make sure the roller is "coarse" enough in the nap. See T5
* Tear down loose wallpaper
* Plasterboard with 6mm renovation plasterboard
- Does it need to be torn down? If you're using renovation plasterboard, it's unnecessary work unless it's "muggy" and shabby. Smooth out unevenness with a filler, then it's just a matter of plasterboarding. Agree with the person who said renovation plasterboard can be a pain when it comes to filling over screw heads. (That might be due to my amateurish screwing, I don't know. I am somewhat biased on the matter
)* make holes for sockets and switches (sockets are where needed, no need for new ones)
- Then you'll probably need to change the boxes, at least if you've plasterboarded? Perhaps it's a good time for professional help?
* fill joints with fine filler
- Yeah... filling is super fun. A little tip if you think, "Eh, that little thing won't show later..." you'll end up annoyed for 8 years until it's time to repaint that the little thing was visible after painting. Sure, OTHERS might not see it, but YOU know where every miss and flaw is, and see them clearly. (Yes, if you're like me anyway.)
* sand down filler
- Moderately fun.
* wallpaper
- Now it starts to get fun. Think about where you'll hang the first strip, then it goes smoothly (at least in a square room without windows, doors, and slanted walls
)* set skirting boards
* set ceiling moldings
With a decent miter saw, it shouldn't be a problem except: the moldings might crack at the nail head. I don't know if it's because I bought the cheap, pre-painted ones from byggmax (sigh... see T5) but anyway. My dear father (RIP
) advised that if you "nip off" the tip of the nail, the molding won't crack. You simply use wire cutters to snip off the nail tip. It works, but it's a heck of a chore if you have 500 nails to snip.* set new outlets and switches
- As before. Make sure the power is off, and if you have ANY DOUBT whatsoever about what you're doing: Get a professional.
If you are going to tear down and reinforce the shaky wall:
Put some energy into soundproofing it while you're at it.
I appreciate the tips!
I'll have to think more about how to handle the roof.
Jbvall wrote that the boxes can be replaced after putting on the plasterboard. Do you mean the actual box where the VP pipe is attached?
So it works to replace it through the hole after the plasterboard is in place?
I can handle disconnecting and reconnecting the electricity, that's probably what I'm most knowledgeable about in all the renovation points.
Regarding the chipboard on the walls, I was planning to insert a high chip screw; I see that there are finishing nails, I think that's what they're called, everywhere, which have started to come out in some places.
For the wobbly wall, I was thinking of putting insulation between the studs, so with insulation, board, and plasterboard, it should be quieter than before.
I'll have to think more about how to handle the roof.
Jbvall wrote that the boxes can be replaced after putting on the plasterboard. Do you mean the actual box where the VP pipe is attached?
So it works to replace it through the hole after the plasterboard is in place?
I can handle disconnecting and reconnecting the electricity, that's probably what I'm most knowledgeable about in all the renovation points.
Regarding the chipboard on the walls, I was planning to insert a high chip screw; I see that there are finishing nails, I think that's what they're called, everywhere, which have started to come out in some places.
For the wobbly wall, I was thinking of putting insulation between the studs, so with insulation, board, and plasterboard, it should be quieter than before.
Hello,
For modern boxes, you should attach them to a spacer ring. If they are older (old metal boxes), you don't need to do anything as long as you can secure the outlets properly. They should withstand you unplugging the cord a few times a week when you bring out the vacuum cleaner.
I would have torn down the shaky wall and redone it. The most important thing is to do thorough prep work. Being meticulous will pay off during the puttying, and the final result will be much better.
For ceilings, there are ceiling panels with a finished surface. Just frame and screw them up for a neat result.
Consider the whole picture and have a plan for the final result. Renovate carefully to preserve the character of the house.
For modern boxes, you should attach them to a spacer ring. If they are older (old metal boxes), you don't need to do anything as long as you can secure the outlets properly. They should withstand you unplugging the cord a few times a week when you bring out the vacuum cleaner.
I would have torn down the shaky wall and redone it. The most important thing is to do thorough prep work. Being meticulous will pay off during the puttying, and the final result will be much better.
For ceilings, there are ceiling panels with a finished surface. Just frame and screw them up for a neat result.
Consider the whole picture and have a plan for the final result. Renovate carefully to preserve the character of the house.
Now the house is from -76 so the boxes are plastic, gray for the light switch if I remember correctly.
I have now torn down the surface board in the bedroom on the wobbly wall and it turned out to be a floor chipboard attached with brads.
The framing underneath looks good and feels stable, cc60 short beam with 45x45 mm.
I was thinking of putting up a 10mm OSB board instead after adding insulation.
I have now torn down the surface board in the bedroom on the wobbly wall and it turned out to be a floor chipboard attached with brads.
The framing underneath looks good and feels stable, cc60 short beam with 45x45 mm.
I was thinking of putting up a 10mm OSB board instead after adding insulation.
To avoid seeing you on "arga snickarn" in the future: Try to finish one room at a time so that the rest of the house can be used in the meantime (says she who's renovating the hallway, staircase, and two living rooms simultaneously...)
Moreover, you learn so much along the way; if you've done all the steps in one room first, you'll make fewer mistakes in the next room.
Moreover, you learn so much along the way; if you've done all the steps in one room first, you'll make fewer mistakes in the next room.