Hello, We are going to build a wall. We will have metal studs, OSB, and drywall, as well as a wooden stud around the door. -What kind of screws should I use? -Is there one kind of screw for mounting the metal stud on the floor and walls? And securing the studs to each other? -One kind of screw for OSB against the metal stud? -Lastly, one kind of screw for the drywall that will go through all the layers and secure to the metal stud?
Or is it drywall screws for mounting on metal studs for all steps?
To install metal studs on the floor and wall, it depends on the substrate: If it's wood, almost any screw with a larger head will do. If it's against other drywall with the same construction OSB+Drywall, the same procedure applies. If it's concrete in the floor, wall, or ceiling, I always choose metal anchor bolts:
To fasten studs to each other, it's common not to use screws, but rather a crimping tool:
They are available in different models and definitely different price ranges - I use a Stanley that I've had for many years. On some occasions, I've also chosen to use pop rivets for the studs when I've forgotten the tool at home. Screw heads have a tendency to stick out and affect the assembly/final result. My procedure is to measure the studs to the board's CC measure - I always use 900 boards so cc45 and attach the stud at the bottom, using a magnetic level or laser to get the studs straight but don't fasten at the top until the boards are up - Simply to avoid breaking off the stud and reframing if it's crooked.
Then a tip - OSB has no center marking like drywall - Always draw a line in the middle of the board so you know where the stud is in the wall. Another one - Always start screwing at the top or bottom and not in the middle - The metal stud will bend and the screw won't pull.
To screw OSB to the stud, you use the designated screw - Wood to Metal, board screw, I wonder if it's called FZY or something.
For the drywall then - There are two methods, the joints on the drywall should overlap the OSB, and it's not actually a requirement that the drywall needs to be screwed into the studs. I don't usually put much emphasis on that part and screw the drywall with the joints offset against the OSB/Plyfa and use Drilling screws for wood:
Typically I use 30-40mm.
If you want the drywall to also grab into the metal stud, you should step into combination screws intended for wood and metal:
And then step up in length so it goes through drywall-OSB and the metal stud. I think it's unnecessary work and, as mentioned earlier, usually only drill into the OSB.
Drilling screws for OSB do not work well against a metal stud as the head will not sink into the board and thus it will be uneven under the drywall. Additionally, if you drill so that you screw the drywall only into the board, it's a completely different screw.
I have built hundreds of meters of wall during my years as a carpenter and drywall screws for OSB/Plywood is something I absolutely do not advocate. Or, if you want to mess things up, go ahead! For me, it should be fast and done right the first time!
Have built hundreds of meters of wall during my years as a carpenter, and drywall screws for OSB/Plywood is something I absolutely don't advocate. Or, if you want to mess around, go ahead! For me, it has to go quickly and turn out well the first time!
But what is the problem?
For plywood, I understand there can be problems since it is significantly harder than OSB.
The problem is the metal rule and that OSB varies in hardness in different places - the screw loosens in the metal rule, and the OSB is not quite thick enough, so the large collar before the head of the drywall screw hits the board. This results in the head of the drywall screw sticking out slightly. Later, when you attach the drywall, it can become slightly bumpy over the screw lines.
The drywall screw has "ridges" on the underside of the head, a larger angle, and is simply designed to drill into the board so the head sinks in.
Good thread, however, I miss the variant of sheet metal screw with a self-drilling tip, which I was recommended at XL bygg, here in the form of Fasadskruv (I did remove the sealing to reduce the height) - I am building a steel frame for a garden furniture piece from steel studs and don't have them at all in interior walls.
Probably not very common, but just thinking for completeness here, in case someone has a similar problem as I had.
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