Like, tearing up the floor (80sqm), moving some walls, re-insulating underneath (if needed), adding joists, putting in battens, laying underfloor heating pipes and heat distribution plates, and putting back the torn-up floorboards (maybe not all). Sand and varnish again...
How does it work? Shouldn't it become a pretty tight and nice floor if you put back the old planks? What do you think is the best method to remove the planks (how were floors fastened in 1945)? How do you lay the floor when putting it back?
/ JoGi
How does it work? Shouldn't it become a pretty tight and nice floor if you put back the old planks? What do you think is the best method to remove the planks (how were floors fastened in 1945)? How do you lay the floor when putting it back?
/ JoGi
Probably, the floor is skew-nailed, so you should expect to work quite a bit to get it up completely. Try to pry the board up a few millimeters at the nail edge, take a block as protection and knock the board back. If you're lucky, you've then loosened the nail and you can tease it out with a nail puller. I used one I bought at Claes Olsson, "Niwatori" something.
Another option is to loosen the board a bit and knock the nail off with a chisel...
Start by checking if the outermost (closest to the wall) board is loose; if so, start there. Otherwise, start where it is least noticeable. If it's difficult to get the board up whole, at least you've messed up the part of the floor that is the least conspicuous.
Mark each board you have removed with a number or something, so you can put it back much faster. Use the same nail holes as before if it fits.
Hope this can be of some help.
/Jesper
Another option is to loosen the board a bit and knock the nail off with a chisel...
Start by checking if the outermost (closest to the wall) board is loose; if so, start there. Otherwise, start where it is least noticeable. If it's difficult to get the board up whole, at least you've messed up the part of the floor that is the least conspicuous.
Mark each board you have removed with a number or something, so you can put it back much faster. Use the same nail holes as before if it fits.
Hope this can be of some help.
/Jesper
...another tip is apparently to grind off the head of the nail with the angle grinder and then pry up the board. Well, I haven't reached that stage yet...
Right now it's groundwork (drainage), pipe replacement (water and sewage), and general demolition... excavator, shovel, crowbar, rock drill, dynamite, big-freaking-Hilti, reciprocating saw you name it... all the crap has to go!
/ JoGi
Right now it's groundwork (drainage), pipe replacement (water and sewage), and general demolition... excavator, shovel, crowbar, rock drill, dynamite, big-freaking-Hilti, reciprocating saw you name it... all the crap has to go!
/ JoGi
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