Hello!
Sub-question: I'm trying to find where I can rent props? Bauhaus didn't have any to rent.
Main question:
I'm quite meticulous by nature. I have therefore gone up to the attic and measured exactly where the roof trusses are and with what spacing. In our single-story house, I then measured exactly where on the kitchen floor the roof trusses line up. I dug a bit in the insulation in the attic and saw that the "bottom chords" of the trusses are spliced after exactly 4.65 m. (total length 9.30
My plan is to use 7 props (one for each truss) to support exactly at the point where each truss's bottom chords are spliced. These points are also 68 cm away from where the load-bearing wall is today. However, the glulam beam will go up in the same position where the load-bearing wall is today.
Does the propping procedure seem appropriate? I have sturdy wood material, 2 by 4, to place vertically to distribute the pressure upwards from the props.
Grateful for ideas and experiences.
Building permit completed.
If anyone has any idea on how I can independently get a glulam beam of 7m 30 cm, weighing 165 kg in place, I would appreciate answers.
I'm quite strong but still expect a few backaches during the work... no pain, no gain.
/goliat
Sub-question: I'm trying to find where I can rent props? Bauhaus didn't have any to rent.
Main question:
I'm quite meticulous by nature. I have therefore gone up to the attic and measured exactly where the roof trusses are and with what spacing. In our single-story house, I then measured exactly where on the kitchen floor the roof trusses line up. I dug a bit in the insulation in the attic and saw that the "bottom chords" of the trusses are spliced after exactly 4.65 m. (total length 9.30
My plan is to use 7 props (one for each truss) to support exactly at the point where each truss's bottom chords are spliced. These points are also 68 cm away from where the load-bearing wall is today. However, the glulam beam will go up in the same position where the load-bearing wall is today.
Does the propping procedure seem appropriate? I have sturdy wood material, 2 by 4, to place vertically to distribute the pressure upwards from the props.
Grateful for ideas and experiences.
Building permit completed.
If anyone has any idea on how I can independently get a glulam beam of 7m 30 cm, weighing 165 kg in place, I would appreciate answers.
I'm quite strong but still expect a few backaches during the work... no pain, no gain.
/goliat
yeah, should probably test there.
nah, underneath is the usual spontaneously laid wooden floor. cc 600 mm. When I tore down the wall (skeleton remaining), I noticed that most of the studs stood without any direct pressure. I doubt that the wall is fully load-bearing, only support-bearing.
/Henke
nah, underneath is the usual spontaneously laid wooden floor. cc 600 mm. When I tore down the wall (skeleton remaining), I noticed that most of the studs stood without any direct pressure. I doubt that the wall is fully load-bearing, only support-bearing.
/Henke
Well, if you think the floor can handle the forces and that it won't be under too much pressure from above, why would you need a prop?
If you want something similar, you can prop up with a regular 2 by 4 or nail two together.
In any case, I would never place a prop with load on a point on a tongue-and-groove floor without doing exactly as pinebar says, i.e., distribute the loads with a crossbeam across your cc 60 joists!
If you want something similar, you can prop up with a regular 2 by 4 or nail two together.
In any case, I would never place a prop with load on a point on a tongue-and-groove floor without doing exactly as pinebar says, i.e., distribute the loads with a crossbeam across your cc 60 joists!
do you have a door or window you can poke the beam through? considering that such a long beam can be difficult to get around corners inside the house. above where you are going to have the beam make 2 holes up to the rafters attach a lifting block at each end like a chain block or other block that you don't need to hold on to all the time so that it doesn't fall to the floor again. hoist up the beam put it on what it should rest on done, sounds easy probably a bit harder to do though
just a little thought from me
just a little thought from me
Then you can reduce the number of supports if you place a type 125X45 rule on its edge across all the chairs, then support from underneath... But I strongly recommend that you also have a 45 rule on the floor that goes across as well....
Hi, great tips. I probably need to add some studs here and there, both in the ceiling and the floor, to balance the forces. However, I've received some information that my roof truss should be self-supporting since it's a w-truss. But the drawing clearly states that the load-bearing wall is wall 11 (without anyone, of course, indicating which wall it is). I assumed it was the heart wall. With a bit of luck, I might not have to install a beam at all. Tricky situation. You don't really dare to take a chance. I always want to be 100% sure before removing the wall studs that are there today (which, by the way, don't seem to have any direct pressure on them).
Hmm, feels like a case where you'd want to consult a constructor. I got pleasant feedback from the constructor who looked at our concrete house, he had both good solution proposals and the dimensions were a bit smaller than I had thought to "guess" at.