My house from 2008 is only held with angled (galvanized) 1-1.5 mm metal plates, about 2-3 meters apart. Screwed on the side of the sill and nailed in the plate.
It seems the designer (Trivselhus) believes the weight of the house should hold it in place!
Otherwise, I've heard that you can drill holes in the plate/sill for expansion bolts/glued bolts.
It seems the designer (Trivselhus) believes the weight of the house should hold it in place!
Otherwise, I've heard that you can drill holes in the plate/sill for expansion bolts/glued bolts.
There are a few different options depending on how well you want the house to be anchored... That is, how large lift forces may arise due to the wind.
The simplest option is probably to drill a hole straight through the sill and down into the slab and use anchor nails with a plastic plug that is pre-mounted on the nail. See Fischer's "Hammerfix N"
http://apps.fischer.de/poc/default.aspx?page=details&layertype=Z&sprache=en&kat=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK-$MPG-G2-$MZG-NAGEL-$MUG-F41&ekat=$EKAT-HK-EN
If you want something that can withstand more tensile forces (upwards), take a look at, for example, Fischer's FBN
http://apps.fischer.de/poc/default.aspx?page=layer&sprache=en&kat=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK-$MPG-SCHWERSTAHL&ekat=$EKAT-HK-EN&path=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK
The simplest option is probably to drill a hole straight through the sill and down into the slab and use anchor nails with a plastic plug that is pre-mounted on the nail. See Fischer's "Hammerfix N"
http://apps.fischer.de/poc/default.aspx?page=details&layertype=Z&sprache=en&kat=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK-$MPG-G2-$MZG-NAGEL-$MUG-F41&ekat=$EKAT-HK-EN
If you want something that can withstand more tensile forces (upwards), take a look at, for example, Fischer's FBN
http://apps.fischer.de/poc/default.aspx?page=layer&sprache=en&kat=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK-$MPG-SCHWERSTAHL&ekat=$EKAT-HK-EN&path=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK
I'm also a fan of the expander screw.
An insulating and moisture-breaking sill band between concrete and wood, and then expansion bolt through everything.
However, a little tip. First mark where your studs should be and then drill. I did the opposite which led to an "artistic" hollowing in a 45X145.
An insulating and moisture-breaking sill band between concrete and wood, and then expansion bolt through everything.
However, a little tip. First mark where your studs should be and then drill. I did the opposite which led to an "artistic" hollowing in a 45X145.
Now I have acquired both mega-long regular nails, expansion nails, and expansion bolts. But when I was about to start working with attaching the first sill piece, I discovered that it is concrete hollow block that the sills should be attached to, or more precisely concrete hollow block with a bit of concrete slabbed on top. The floor inside is a cast concrete slab, but the foundation wall (or whatever it should be called) that the sills should be attached to is concrete hollow block.
So I need to ask if the previously recommended attachment methods still work. You can aim the expansion bolt into a hole in the concrete hollow block, but the risk is perhaps that the bolt will crack the hollow block when you start tightening it?
For the expansion nails, maybe you could knock a hole about 5-6 cm in diameter into the concrete hollow block, and then cast the expansion nails into the hole and finally hammer them down once the concrete has cured/hardened?
Or what to do?
Best regards
So I need to ask if the previously recommended attachment methods still work. You can aim the expansion bolt into a hole in the concrete hollow block, but the risk is perhaps that the bolt will crack the hollow block when you start tightening it?
For the expansion nails, maybe you could knock a hole about 5-6 cm in diameter into the concrete hollow block, and then cast the expansion nails into the hole and finally hammer them down once the concrete has cured/hardened?
Or what to do?
Best regards
That wasn't very fun! You could drill larger holes, maybe 20mm, which you then cast again and afterwards drill and tighten with an expansion bolt. It might also be possible to cast in a threaded rod with a nut instead, but remember it should be galvanized in that case.