What should I do with the walls?

[snowjim]

Okay, now we have set up studs that are spaced 600 mm apart and there are a lot of studs!! I actually think we can skip the noggins altogether, right? My idea is to mark out on the floor where the middle of all the studs are, and then when the walls are in place and the tracks are being screwed in, I will use these markings to screw the screws into the studs, does that sound sufficient? This is what it looks like:


http://i.imgur.com/5dDlntI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yv6lJqK.jpg
There won't be any cabinets here, maybe a small TV in the future.

http://i.imgur.com/YXXc56b.jpg
The wall cabinets will be installed here.

 

[nino]

I probably would have done as you write.

 

[Fjojtmehmet]

I would probably have done as you write

I agree, you were planning to install OSB; it will be sturdy as heck.
Take the opportunity to replace all electrical boxes and pipes while the wall is open. The plastic in these pipes and boxes is worthless!
I don't have a single intact box of the old ones in my place, everything is broken.
Moreover, the pipes are not 16mm according to today's standard, so they don't fit new boxes.
The best is if the electrician splices the incoming feeder pipe to a new junction box and then replaces EVERYTHING.

 

[snowjim]

Thanks, the insulation is now in place, made a huge difference in sound absorption but I know it will start to echo again as soon as the wall panels are up Hopefully, it will be of some benefit to the adjacent rooms (children's room, living room, and computer room).

The plan is for the electrician to replace almost everything, yes, even build in the network outlets that go to the children's room, living room, and computer room (these are currently in strips on the outside).

The electrician is coming tomorrow morning, I assume it's around 7 AM so now I need to create a drawing of how the wiring should be. I've also cut crawl boards for the attic and rolled away the insulation for them.

Pictures of what it looks like will come during the day tomorrow.

 

[snowjim]

Stayed up late sketching out the electrical wiring we want, and 6 hours later, the electrician got a walkthrough. After some discussion, we could eliminate some outlets. The tricky choice was placing the power outlets at the counter; typically, they are 120 cc from the floor, but since we planned to have a 60 distance instead of 55 between the counter and wall cabinets, we chose 130 cc, hoping it will be reasonable. Also opted for the extra thin outlets.

This is what it looks like now:


http://i.imgur.com/kMbhqd0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pw8hSNp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jWKM5VN.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mnvTZMF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Y09Q6BA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GoV1fIi.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZCuEuy7.jpg

An electrician managed to do this in one day, with assistance from another for about 2 hours. Looks good so far, actually decided not to install outlets for TV/Network, hoping this is the right choice

Tomorrow the electrician will come again to finish up (hopefully). The first thing we did when we moved into the house was to get the network wired, which at that time had to be laid on the surface, not nice. Since the kitchen adjoins the study, children’s room, and living room, we are now choosing to recess all network outlets in these rooms at the same time. Costs a bit extra, but much nicer.

 

[snowjim]

I spoke with another craftsman who mentioned noggings and a single layer of gypsum board, just like the other craftsman. He had never installed anything else and he has been working for many years. It seemed strange since here on the forum, OSB and gypsum board seem to be the standard. He also said that they had drilled new holes in IKEA's metal rails where they needed extra support. However, that feels a bit risky as any warranty is likely voided, and one might question the load-bearing capacity.

If I put up OSB and gypsum board here, noggings seem quite pointless. OSB appears to have high strength and if it's mounted on all the studs, it should be really stable even if some screws in the rail only hold onto the OSB.

 

[snowjim]

How picky is it with the insulation? For example, you can see here that there are small gaps where we haven't put anything in:


http://i.imgur.com/ZCuEuy7.jpg

My first thought was to put some sealant here instead since I've heard that to insulate light well, it should be tight or there should be guldfiber everywhere?

 

[snowjim]

It's time to start putting up the walls and now that we have cc 60, we should be able to either set up 10x2390x1197 horizontally or 11x2440x1197 vertically, what would you choose? The videos I've seen have set them horizontally and then the gipset vertically?

 

[snowjim]

Have booked a trailer now, the following is on the shopping list:

1 Durable construction foil 2.7x25m
19 Drywall panels 13x1200x2400mm (estimated need 16 units)
19 OSB panels 10x2390x1197 mm (estimated need 16 units)
2000 Particleboard screws 4.2x41mm, FZB (We have extra many studs to attach to)
2000 Drywall screws for wooden studs, 3.9x41mm, FZB

Can't get hold of a saw template for ELKO 1 1/2 box, so we have to go hole in one on one and then do the other manually.

1. Does the shopping list look reasonable?
2. What distances should the screws be placed at?
3. How should joints be placed to avoid cracks? Is it enough to mount all panels vertically and offset the joint between OSB and drywall? Or should OSB be set horizontally and drywall vertically? And how is it above doors and windows? Where do you place the joint there?

 

[Fjojtmehmet]

Booked a trailer now, the following items are on the shopping list:

1 Aged-resistant construction foil 2.7x25m
19 Gypsum boards 13x1200x2400mm (estimated requirement 16 pcs)
19 OSB boards 10x2390x1197 mm (estimated requirement 16 pcs)
2000 Particle board screws 4.2x41mm, FZB (We have extra many studs to attach to)
2000 Gypsum screws for wooden studs, 3.9x41mm, FZB

Can't get hold of any saw template for ELKO 1 1/2 box so we will have to do a hole in one on one and then do the other manually.

1. Does the shopping list seem reasonable?
2. At what distances should the screws be placed?
3. How should joints be placed to avoid cracks? Is it enough to mount all the boards vertically and offset the joint between OSB and gypsum? Or should OSB be placed horizontally and gypsum vertically? And how is it over doors and windows? Where should the joint be placed there?

It looks reasonable
I would have bought 90cm gypsum instead, much easier to work with, then there will be no major joints either.
Place both layers of boards vertically.
I usually have about 20 cm between screws around the edges and about 30-40 cm in the middle.
On Knauf boards, there are dots where screws should be placed in the middle; you can use them and double the density at the outer edges.

 

[snowjim]

It looks reasonable
I would have bought 90cm plasterboard instead, much easier to work with, then there are no general seams either.
Place both sheet layers vertically.
I usually have around 20 cm between the screws around the edges and about 30-40 cm in the middle.
On Knauf boards, there are dots where screws should be placed in the middle, you can use them and place screws twice as densely on the outer edges

Aha, so I don't need to worry about the studs when it comes to the plasterboard? 90 cm sounds like an easier solution, though quite a few more boards

 

[snowjim]

Seems like their 90 gypsum is 10 cm longer, i.e., 250 cm? The advantage of those that are 240 is that they don't need to be cut, but they are of course wider and a bit more cumbersome to work with.

I saw that there is hard gypsum and bathroom gypsum as well? Something one might want to have in the Kitchen too?

 

[Fjojtmehmet]

Seems like their 90 plasterboard is 10 cm longer i.e. 250 cm? The advantage of those that are 240 is that they don't need to be cut, but of course, they are wider and a bit more cumbersome to work with.

I saw that there is hard plasterboard and bathroom plasterboard too? Something one might consider for the kitchen as well?

How high is your ceiling today?
Cutting 10cm plasterboard takes about 15 seconds, so it's not a big problem.
You don't need to complicate it, just go with regular cardboard plasterboard.

The advantage of 90 boards is that you have better control, get a better grip, and it's not as heavy.
I am 180cm and can get my hand under the 90 plasterboard with the other edge in my armpit. This way, the weight is distributed over both arms, which isn't possible with 120; with those, one arm carries while the other balances.

I find 120 boards to be really cumbersome, only use them when the space to be plastered is 90-110 cm, and it's solely to avoid an extra seam to spackle.

 

[snowjim]

How high is your ceiling today? Cutting 10cm gypsum takes about 15 seconds, so it's not a big problem. You don't have to complicate things, go with regular gypsum board.

The advantage of 90 panels is that you have better control, get a better grip, and it's not as heavy. I am 180cm, and I can get my hand under the 90 gypsum with the other edge in the armpit. So the weight is distributed over both arms, which isn't possible with 120, since one arm has to carry while the other balances.

I think 120 panels are really complicated, I only use them when the space to be plastered is 90-110 cm, and that's only to avoid an extra seam to patch up.

I understand, but if there are 2 people doing the job, it shouldn't matter, right?

 

[snowjim]

I have now received gypsum and OSB, they weren't very fun to carry, I must say, especially the gypsum. I understand why you Fjojtmehmet prefer 90 gypsum






I have also bought age-resistant plastic and gejp from Bygg Max, it said 50 years, fingers crossed that this is good stuff!? It feels weird to put materials in the wall that last 50 years, I don't think many will tear down their walls after 50 years to replace the plastic. Is there plastic that lasts longer?

Isn't it that you staple the plastic and then put some tape pieces over it to make it tight? Do you need to replace insulation too or does it not age in the same way?