Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
It's difficult.snowjim said:
I guess you have 240cm floor to ceiling like I do. Then it's just a matter of cutting the boards to 238, stand them up against the wall, put your toes against the bottom edge and tilt your foot upwards until the gap is just right, then just go for it!
I have now booked a trailer for tomorrow to pick up lumber, it will be Bygg Max for now, but when it comes to insulation maybe I'll look at something more "advanced".
Today, as mentioned, there are studs that are 45 x 35 x 2200 mm. Probably it will be enough to secure those that are already there better, but since they are quite narrow, there is always a risk they will crack when you drive 90 mm screws into them, so a few extras might not be a bad idea.
The question is whether to buy 45 x 45 x 2500 or 45 x 70 x 2500? On Bygg Max's site, it says that the larger ones are used for load-bearing construction, while the others are usually used for non-load-bearing.
45x45 https://www.byggmax.se/virke/reglar/45x45-kortregel-p08145046
45 x 70 https://www.byggmax.se/virke/reglar/45x70-kortregel-p08145071
It can also feel a bit strange to attach a 45 x 70 nogging to 45 x 35 studs?
This is how it might look
http://i.imgur.com/R1fAj4i.jpg
Gray is nogging
Red is original studs
Blue/Purple is how the 90 mm screws should sit (probably pre-drilled).
So what should I buy for studs? And if you have suggestions on screws from Bygg Max or similar, that's good too.
Today, as mentioned, there are studs that are 45 x 35 x 2200 mm. Probably it will be enough to secure those that are already there better, but since they are quite narrow, there is always a risk they will crack when you drive 90 mm screws into them, so a few extras might not be a bad idea.
The question is whether to buy 45 x 45 x 2500 or 45 x 70 x 2500? On Bygg Max's site, it says that the larger ones are used for load-bearing construction, while the others are usually used for non-load-bearing.
45x45 https://www.byggmax.se/virke/reglar/45x45-kortregel-p08145046
45 x 70 https://www.byggmax.se/virke/reglar/45x70-kortregel-p08145071
It can also feel a bit strange to attach a 45 x 70 nogging to 45 x 35 studs?
This is how it might look
http://i.imgur.com/R1fAj4i.jpg
Gray is nogging
Red is original studs
Blue/Purple is how the 90 mm screws should sit (probably pre-drilled).
So what should I buy for studs? And if you have suggestions on screws from Bygg Max or similar, that's good too.
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
45x45 is sufficient every timesnowjim said:
Cheaper, more convenient, lighter, and in this case, just as good
What should "kortlingar" be used for? Just to make it stronger?
Or are you going to hang the kitchen on it? If you're going to hang a kitchen, I'd go up to 120x45 or larger to get some leeway. If you already have the kitchen, you could check exactly where the frames will be, and then perhaps 45x70 will be enough.
Do you have cc 600 or what is it?
Or are you going to hang the kitchen on it? If you're going to hang a kitchen, I'd go up to 120x45 or larger to get some leeway. If you already have the kitchen, you could check exactly where the frames will be, and then perhaps 45x70 will be enough.
Do you have cc 600 or what is it?
There are about 50 cm between the studs and the plan is to hang the kitchen on it; in this case, 2 battens will be used. My plan is to measure exactly where the battens will be in advance, so maybe 45x70 is enough? Is it okay to attach it to 45x35? Or do I have to replace the studs more here?nino said:
Keep in mind that I'll be attaching OSB and single plasterboard on this later.
But no matter how TS measures, TS can never get 60 cc with the current setup. So it results in a lot of unnecessary cutting in the plates. If TS has measured so that it's 500 between the studs, it will probably end up being either cc 535 or 545. So it hardly helps no matter how much TS measures. 
Thanks for all the feedback!
We've spent the whole day today removing the rest of the kitchen fixtures and then all the masonite boards (when it's not tree tex). Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures, but I'll get some by tomorrow morning
The studs are spaced variably, and in some cases, there are recessed extra studs. I'm not entirely sure how they built it, but there are an awful lot of studs. The ones I've measured have been 38-42, with a few much smaller ones. Some photos will probably give you better clarity.
Unfortunately, they've skimped on some studs by joining them, which makes it very difficult to saw off the "nail" that holds the masonite since the entire stud tends to give way. It turns out they've put some type of stiff pegs (not nails) right through the studs, and these, in turn, hold the masonite boards. Pulling them out doesn't seem reasonable, so instead, we're cutting them as far back as possible. In some cases, they've chosen to staple the boards with some kind of very long and thick staples, making it almost impossible to get the boards off whole.
There is no insulation in all the walls except the exterior walls.
Unfortunately, we couldn't remove the radiator as we can't get hold of plugs (see more here), so the section of the wall behind the radiator had to stay.
Tomorrow we hope to manage the following:
1. Remove the rest of the nails and metal pegs
2. Replace the 6-7 45x45 studs they've cheated with
3. Calculate where the tracks for the IKEA kitchen should go
4. Insert noggings of 45x70 where the tracks will be placed
5. Buy and install insulation in the walls
6. Cut boards (45x195) to be able to crawl around in the attic while we simultaneously roll away the insulation for the electricians coming on Monday
7. Mark out on the floor where all the cabinets go and what they require in terms of electrical work
Edit: How does it work with exterior walls, by the way? There is plastic over the insulation, and this plastic has torn in a couple of places. They aren't major damages, but there are some tears here and there, not least from all the nails. Do I need to put new plastic over this?
We've spent the whole day today removing the rest of the kitchen fixtures and then all the masonite boards (when it's not tree tex). Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures, but I'll get some by tomorrow morning
The studs are spaced variably, and in some cases, there are recessed extra studs. I'm not entirely sure how they built it, but there are an awful lot of studs. The ones I've measured have been 38-42, with a few much smaller ones. Some photos will probably give you better clarity.
Unfortunately, they've skimped on some studs by joining them, which makes it very difficult to saw off the "nail" that holds the masonite since the entire stud tends to give way. It turns out they've put some type of stiff pegs (not nails) right through the studs, and these, in turn, hold the masonite boards. Pulling them out doesn't seem reasonable, so instead, we're cutting them as far back as possible. In some cases, they've chosen to staple the boards with some kind of very long and thick staples, making it almost impossible to get the boards off whole.
There is no insulation in all the walls except the exterior walls.
Unfortunately, we couldn't remove the radiator as we can't get hold of plugs (see more here), so the section of the wall behind the radiator had to stay.
Tomorrow we hope to manage the following:
1. Remove the rest of the nails and metal pegs
2. Replace the 6-7 45x45 studs they've cheated with
3. Calculate where the tracks for the IKEA kitchen should go
4. Insert noggings of 45x70 where the tracks will be placed
5. Buy and install insulation in the walls
6. Cut boards (45x195) to be able to crawl around in the attic while we simultaneously roll away the insulation for the electricians coming on Monday
7. Mark out on the floor where all the cabinets go and what they require in terms of electrical work
Edit: How does it work with exterior walls, by the way? There is plastic over the insulation, and this plastic has torn in a couple of places. They aren't major damages, but there are some tears here and there, not least from all the nails. Do I need to put new plastic over this?
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After all, it would be best to buy a bunch of 45x45 studs and insert them at a distance so that you have cc 600 between all the studs instead of replacing and restoring old ones at the same foolish cc distance. The boards should be attached with their edges to a stud, and with your cc distance, you'll need to cut boards to do that, which is time-consuming and a waste of material.
Make sure the plastic is intact, as the plastic from the 70s was worse than the construction plastic available now, so don't start patching and repairing but rather install new plastic and tape it carefully along the edges with the old one.
Make sure the plastic is intact, as the plastic from the 70s was worse than the construction plastic available now, so don't start patching and repairing but rather install new plastic and tape it carefully along the edges with the old one.
Here are some pictures
http://i.imgur.com/mpGzUiT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dEF15iy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yVLpxAT.jpg
Here you can see that a couple of studs are missing, as they broke when we removed the panels.
http://i.imgur.com/DuGJazp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rzMiZAc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YRBJ09S.jpg
Here we can see how they have spliced studs.
http://i.imgur.com/fmdudnS.jpg
This is what the small sticks we saw off look like.
http://i.imgur.com/7EAhOdu.jpg
http://imgur.com/a/wUz7o
http://i.imgur.com/mpGzUiT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dEF15iy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yVLpxAT.jpg
Here you can see that a couple of studs are missing, as they broke when we removed the panels.
http://i.imgur.com/DuGJazp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rzMiZAc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YRBJ09S.jpg
Here we can see how they have spliced studs.
http://i.imgur.com/fmdudnS.jpg
This is what the small sticks we saw off look like.
http://i.imgur.com/7EAhOdu.jpg
http://imgur.com/a/wUz7o
It is already so dense that adding more won't be good; moving them around feels like a big job, plus they are attached to the corresponding wall on the other side with those rods. But I'll measure to see if it's possible to set cc 600.oceanis said:
Okay, what kind of plastic should I put here? Paint plastic? Can I staple it with a staple gun? Which tape?oceanis said:
I would also supplement it to make it approximately 600, it becomes easier with the discs then
You should preferably have age-resistant plastic, the alternative is to tape the holes and leave it. There you also have a disadvantage with single gypsum on the wall, drill for a Molly plug and you puncture the plastic if it is not an installation space, with an osb you can instead attach things to it.
You should preferably have age-resistant plastic, the alternative is to tape the holes and leave it. There you also have a disadvantage with single gypsum on the wall, drill for a Molly plug and you puncture the plastic if it is not an installation space, with an osb you can instead attach things to it.
I used age-resistant tape, available at all hardware stores.snowjim said:
A staple gun is fine to use, it goes faster with a staple hammer. But if it’s just this job that needs to be done, you can probably manage with a staple gun.