No, unfortunately I don't have a floor plan of the garage. But should one keep the loft ladder that has a frame outer dimension of 67.6 or replace it with a smaller model (as it would be a 10cm shift with the beam in that case)? I would have liked a wider one to make it easier to get things up, but of course, I can replace it if it disrupts the construction. I don't think we'll store anything particularly heavy up there at all.J justusandersson said:
Then one could consider how to get these glulam beams up, I assume they weigh QUITE a lot.
The staircase's placement is actually more important than its width. It might be wise if you can downsize. In the absence of a floor plan, what are the internal measurements of the garage?
Why are you talking about a 6.5-meter span when the garage is only 5.836 meters wide? It should allow for an 8 cm support on each side.
Well, I was talking about the finger-joined beams I ordered, which came in standard lengths of 6.5m. So, to span over the wall plates, which are 14.5cm on each side, they would need to be 6.126m long if I were to use them. I apologize if my description was unclear.J justusandersson said:
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The glulam beams do not need such long supports. 8 cm on each side is sufficient. You can use 6 m lengths.
With 56x225, you can't load anything at all, so it's pretty pointless.
Elasticity theory is used to calculate the deflection with a given load, material type, dimensions, and span. Normally, the deflection should not be greater than 1/300 of the span. If it's a floor that is walked on, a deflection criterion is added. I have some self-made tools so that I can easily adjust various parameters, change dimensions, modify the load, etc., interactively, which is practical. Knowledge in structural mechanics, strength of materials, and building construction (structural design) is beneficial.
Elasticity theory is used to calculate the deflection with a given load, material type, dimensions, and span. Normally, the deflection should not be greater than 1/300 of the span. If it's a floor that is walked on, a deflection criterion is added. I have some self-made tools so that I can easily adjust various parameters, change dimensions, modify the load, etc., interactively, which is practical. Knowledge in structural mechanics, strength of materials, and building construction (structural design) is beneficial.
Hello,
Unfortunately, I don't have time to read through all the other comments, so I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned or if you've come to a solution.
I spontaneously think it looks quite bad with the nail plates in the middle of the field on the underframe. This significantly increases deformations as these are not screwed/nailed to handle any moment load in the underframe. It would have been better to have used finger-jointed wood from the start.
To strengthen the structure, I would:
1. Prop up the underframe to a neutral position or alternatively lift it an additional 5 mm. When you remove the props, it will sag again.
2. Then you should use your finger-jointed wood and screw it onto the underframe. Just off the top of my head: Wood screws 6.0x80 s200 in double rows. Possibly even denser right where the struts go against the underframe. This will give you a much stronger roof structure compared to how it looks today.
Once it's screwed together, you can remove the props.
If you want to store things up there, you should reinforce on both sides of the underframe, or alternatively use larger dimensions. To know exactly, one should probably have someone calculate it or use free versions/apps online, although these tend to give somewhat excessive dimensions at times.
Unfortunately, I don't have time to read through all the other comments, so I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned or if you've come to a solution.
I spontaneously think it looks quite bad with the nail plates in the middle of the field on the underframe. This significantly increases deformations as these are not screwed/nailed to handle any moment load in the underframe. It would have been better to have used finger-jointed wood from the start.
To strengthen the structure, I would:
1. Prop up the underframe to a neutral position or alternatively lift it an additional 5 mm. When you remove the props, it will sag again.
2. Then you should use your finger-jointed wood and screw it onto the underframe. Just off the top of my head: Wood screws 6.0x80 s200 in double rows. Possibly even denser right where the struts go against the underframe. This will give you a much stronger roof structure compared to how it looks today.
Once it's screwed together, you can remove the props.
If you want to store things up there, you should reinforce on both sides of the underframe, or alternatively use larger dimensions. To know exactly, one should probably have someone calculate it or use free versions/apps online, although these tend to give somewhat excessive dimensions at times.
Thanks for the input. I think I understand how you mean I should use my already purchased 45x145 finger-jointed full-length (6.5m) then I assume? And screw into the existing ones that are jointed in the middle after getting it to a neutral position. Or would it be enough to screw a 45x145 a few meters on each side of the joint?F FreddruS said:
Sounds really sensible.
It is a solution if you want to stop the deflection of the roof trusses in their current use, however, it does not help if you want to add a soffit and insulation and use the space for storage.
True, I need to measure somehow how much they have bent... how do I do that easiest? Stretch a string along the length?J justusandersson said:
It might look worse when I look than it actually is.
To get insulation and flooring, etc., that can handle the load, it's either as you suggested with glulam or as Pacman42 suggested with making extra trusses.