Trusses that are sagging

[M@ZE]

I would go for two first, where the braces go down.

Read in another thread about splicing rafters
"Possible to 'splice' rafters"

Many recommended splicing with plywood glued on both sides of the splice

 

[M@ZE]

Was visited by one of those who built the garage. His suggestion is to place 45x195 glued screws on each side of the lower arms, meaning 2 per lower arm. Prop up first as much as possible beforehand. Then reinforce the upper arm with 45x195 on one side of the upper arm.

 

[witten]

It is thus apparent that your contractor is just throwing in some dimensions in load-bearing structures without performing strength calculations. Especially in truss constructions, I don't think that's okay. It's not even legal if you want to be in that mood.

 

[M@ZE]

It's therefore obvious that your contractor is just making up some dimensions in load-bearing structures without doing structural calculations. Especially in truss constructions, I don't think that's okay. It's not even legal if you're in that kind of mood.

Well, he's not a designer, of course, and that's something to accept. However, it's difficult for me to say, "Well, I think you're wrong here," and he's responsible for all the materials. Hmm, what a dilemma this is

But it's a solution we've discussed here, to reinforce the forearms; in what way would this be an "illegal" solution?

 

[justusandersson]

Glued plywood is probably good as a jointing material. Preferably 18 mm or thicker (has more layers than 12 and 15 mm). The length of the joint pieces should be at least 1 meter. A large number of screws in even rows. The length of the screw should be chosen so that it goes through the plywood and almost the entire subframe but not into the next plywood.

 

[M@ZE]

Glued plywood is probably good as a connecting material. Preferably 18 mm or thicker (has more lamellas than 12 and 15 mm). The length of the splice pieces should be at least 1 meter. A large amount of screws in even rows. The length of the screw should be chosen so that it goes through the plywood and almost the entire subframe but not into the next plywood.

Ok

It would be good if I have a plan so I can present it, as he will probably provide the material and might come to help me. You have to say that it's very kind. The idea of reinforcing the underarm on both sides with 45x195 is ruled out compared to plywood then I assume you say?

Sorry if I'm being repetitive but I need something to come back with.

 

[justusandersson]

The idea of reinforcing the underframe on both sides with 45x195 is out of the question

If by that you mean reinforcing the underframe along its entire length with two 45x195, one on each side, I think it's pointless. You need the laminated beams because of the span to be able to use the loft for storage. A rigid moment joint instead of the nail plate should be able to keep the deflection to a reasonable level. For the joint, you can use plywood but also standard framing lumber 45x145.

 

[M@ZE]

If by that you mean reinforcing the subframe along its entire length with two 45x195, one on each side, then I think it's pointless. You need the glue-laminated beams because of the span to be able to use the loft for storage. A moment-resistant joint instead of the nail plate should be able to keep the deflection at a reasonable level. For the joint, you can use plywood but also standard timber 45x145.

Ok, so I could still use the timber I have lying around, 45x145, and splice on each side of the subframe. Do you also splice here with 1 meter over the joint (50cm on each side)? Glue-laminated beams will be needed anyway for the floor support.

Then I will also say that the upper arms need to be reinforced as you mentioned earlier.

 

[justusandersson]

You can use your 45x145 as joint timber. At least 1 meter length there too.

 

[witten]

But it is a solution we have discussed here, to strengthen the forearms, in what way would this be an "illegal" solution?

What I meant was that the person who built it initially did not follow the building code and thereby put you in the predicament you are in now; you can actually expect that what you buy is made according to the regulations.

I also think about what an issue it becomes if someone illegally connects some electricity, but we somehow have higher tolerance for construction fraud.

So it wasn't criticism directed at you, M@ZE, but rather towards the one who built this for you. I feel sorry for you having unknowingly been affected by this problem.

 

[M@ZE]

What I meant was that the person who built it originally did not follow the building code, putting you in the predicament you are in now. You can actually expect what you buy to be done according to the regulations.

I also think about what kind of life it would be if someone did some sloppy electrical connections, but for some reason, we have a higher tolerance for construction fraud.

So it wasn't a criticism of you M@ZE but against the person who built this for you. I feel sorry for you that you have unknowingly been affected by this problem.

Thank you @witten, I understood that you meant well. And I agree with you. It's still good that he at least came out and stands for the material and could help me even if the solution wasn't entirely good according to you. It feels as if the plan going forward to solve both the sagging upper & lower arms is as follows if one is to outline a path forward for a solution, feel free to correct if this is completely wrong and if I have misunderstood anything.

1. Support the lower arms to level or slightly above under the braces, glue and screw 1m 45x145 on both sides of the lower arm to reduce sagging and strengthen.

2. Strengthen upper arms with 45x195

3. Glulam beams 56x225 between the trusses for a new floor joist