Ah, then it becomes more difficult since there is no ridge. Then you have to hang them from the adjacent rafters instead. That works too. But now it's starting to be bands/wires crisscrossing. Now I understand your picture better.
With these conditions, I would have probably made (slightly weaker) copies of the existing rafters that I built on site. But I would have avoided the splice on the bottom chord, but your joists managed the whole span without a splice, so that problem is solved anyway.
With these conditions, I would have probably made (slightly weaker) copies of the existing rafters that I built on site. But I would have avoided the splice on the bottom chord, but your joists managed the whole span without a splice, so that problem is solved anyway.
The existing rafters 45x145 are jointed in the middle with metal plates. The ones I ordered from Fredells 45x145 are finger-jointed from the factory. In other words, would you use my ordered beams and build extra rafters so there are twice as many as today?pacman42 said:
Sorry for my ignorance and if I'm not quite keeping up
.So would it actually be better to make more rafters than to just put up my beams as they are?
Yes, the truss takes weight from the middle of the beam and distributes it towards the ends.
Simplified, one can say that the V-shape that rests against the roof is compressed and pulls on the ends of the underlying beam, creating a stable construction that one can then use to hang the beam. The durability of such a construction surpasses a single beam multiple times (it's been so long since I calculated it, so I don’t remember by how much). Single beams in floors/ceilings are used for one reason only - to avoid having posts in the rooms above and below.
Simplified, one can say that the V-shape that rests against the roof is compressed and pulls on the ends of the underlying beam, creating a stable construction that one can then use to hang the beam. The durability of such a construction surpasses a single beam multiple times (it's been so long since I calculated it, so I don’t remember by how much). Single beams in floors/ceilings are used for one reason only - to avoid having posts in the rooms above and below.
It is not difficult. Use 145x45 and fasten with sheet metal joints according to the existing construction on site. Once you've made the pieces for the first one, you have templates to make the other parts.
The difficult part of making roof trusses is getting them completely identical to each other (for this reason, a template/cradle is usually made) but that problem is not yours since you have the roof and floor as templates.
Go to your local building supply store and buy 145x45 so that it's enough for the first one and give it a try. You will be really satisfied when you've succeeded with that one, and then the rest will follow easily.
The difficult part of making roof trusses is getting them completely identical to each other (for this reason, a template/cradle is usually made) but that problem is not yours since you have the roof and floor as templates.
Go to your local building supply store and buy 145x45 so that it's enough for the first one and give it a try. You will be really satisfied when you've succeeded with that one, and then the rest will follow easily.
Haha, yes, so true Pacman42, I guess they need to be attached with some kind of brace on the inside to keep it in place at the top since I can't nail from the other side now that the planks are already nailed to the existing rafters that hold them in place?Things are only difficult until you've done them...
If I succeed with this, then there shouldn't be any problem with screwing planks on top later, right? Then I also don't need to brace up to get cc60. Although that would be to get a bit thicker insulation than 145 in the floor.
The attachment can be made by screwing a ridge between existing roof trusses. It should only hold the new roof trusses in place, so it probably doesn't even need to be more than 45x45. However, I would increase it a little to have a bit more to screw into.
The simplest solution is to install new glulam beams with a c/c 1200 mm spacing between the existing rafters. If you choose the dimension 90x270, the floor will support a storage load of at least 50 kg/sqm. If you want to reduce the construction height, you can use 165x225 instead, but it will be more expensive. On top of the glulam beams, you lay 1.5" (about 36 mm) floorboards. Modifying the rafters is much more complicated. You can save your finger-jointed 45x145 for another project.
Absolutely, I have personal experience with that. Existing insulation boards need a bit of trimming on the width. Get a proper insulation knife model machetas, and it's not that difficult. If it turns out that 6.5 meters is significantly more expensive than 6 meters, there are ways to work around that issue, depending on how the base area is arranged. Make sure to order thoroughly at the bottom first. The nice thing about glulam is that there are so many widths to choose from.M M@ZE said:
Yeah, I need to look around a bit, but won't it work with something like 56x270 or 90x225?J justusandersson said:
56x225 although only 6m I see at Byggmax/Bauhaus for 849:-
One thing I realized is that I've bought an attic hatch with a ladder that is 680x1130, and it's going to be difficult to fit it in between. I can at least use the existing 45x145 to screw in one side of the ladder, but it's going to be difficult on the other side if I don't brace against the existing 45x145
I could possibly change the attic ladder to one that is 540x1130, but I would prefer to have a wide one, of course.
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56x270 works if you reduce the storage load from 50 to 30 kg/sqm, and that's not entirely unrealistic. The same applies to 90x225.
The staircase must be fitted appropriately. Shifting a glulam beam a few cm isn't a major problem. I don't think adapting to an existing roof truss is difficult either. The heaviest loads occur when someone is standing on the staircase, mostly in the horizontal direction.
Do you have a dimensioned floor plan of the garage?
The staircase must be fitted appropriately. Shifting a glulam beam a few cm isn't a major problem. I don't think adapting to an existing roof truss is difficult either. The heaviest loads occur when someone is standing on the staircase, mostly in the horizontal direction.
Do you have a dimensioned floor plan of the garage?