I was possibly thinking of this:

http://www.gsbyggvaror.se/produkter/isolering/VaGGISOLERING_FLEXIBATTS.html

I know that the lifting forces on this roof are large and that the building is very exposed to wind.

With steel bands, I must plaster on the outside, right? (The facade is already plastered and painted)

Do nails really hold sufficiently? Do you have a link to a suitable product, how tightly should they be nailed? Dimensions?

How do you attach the roof trusses to the wall plates, angle brackets + anchor screws?
 
The Flexibatts panels seem perfectly fine. A nail plug is essentially a screw in a plug. Check out www.fischersverige.se. Their model N10 can withstand a tensile force of 0.3 kN (i.e., approximately 30 kg) in solid brick per nail. However, they are quite expensive. Steel bands attached to the inside of the brick wall are cheaper. The sloping parts of the truss are called högben, and the horizontal one is called hanbjälke. The hanbjälke can be advantageously replaced with a steel tension rod. To attach the truss to the wall plate, you need to make a knä, i.e., two pieces of wood at a right angle fastened to the högben. Closer c/c between the trusses than 1200 mm is not necessary. A steeper roof slope allows for smaller dimensions.
 
Thoughts arose about the underroof. I'm thinking of raw tongue and groove boards + felt.

Then roof tile sheets. Do I need to batten for the roof tile sheets?

Or can I screw them directly into the raw boards through the felt?
 
Choose 22-23 mm råspont and polyester-based felt (much more durable) with adhesive edge, type YAP 2200. Personally, I find tile-imitating sheet metal hideously ugly. Instead, choose so-called pannplåt (flat sheet metal with round rather sparse ridges). Much more attractive. It can also be screwed directly onto the felt. Otherwise, battens are required. Check out Plannja's website www.plannja.se.
 
The rest of the house in an angle has tile sheet roofing, therefore it will probably be necessary to have it here as well. What dimensions for strö and bärläkt?
 
I don't agree with that logic. Angle cuts in roof tile sheets do not look good, and the material is not particularly aesthetically sustainable. When it comes to batten dimensions, everything you need to know is in the installation instructions on Plannja's website.
 
A new question that has come up is how important "wind protection is inside the brick wall. I was considering a few cm air gap, then asfaboard or windproof paper or windproof fabric. If not for wind protection, it must be there to "hold" the insulation from the brick wall?

How on earth am I going to manage to attach this when I can't reach it?

Build the whole inner wall on the ground first and then tilt it up? It might be tricky since it will partially be sloped with angles, etc.?

Have I missed something?
 
If inside the brick wall, you build a masonry wall of, for example, lecasten which you then plaster on the inside, the plaster provides wind protection. Nothing else is needed.
 
And what if I drive into an interior wall with wooden studs?
 
I think wooden studs are a worse solution from several perspectives, even if it might feel simpler. Especially when you are going to use most of the space as a bathroom. A stud wall inside a full brick wall is always a risk. The windproofing in this case is done inside the surface layer with either a wind barrier like AC 350 or with another diffusion-open windproofing. There are many to choose from. Check out Paroc's website. The walls in the bathroom that need moisture insulation don't need any windproofing.
 
There are some changed plans. See image

How cozy is it to have plastered walls in a bedroom? Or how is it usually done? Can you, for example, have leca in the bath and laundry/hall, then studded interior walls in the bedroom?

On a studded interior wall, how on earth do you staple windproof paper/fabric? Do you have to build the interior wall on the ground and then raise it up?

Floor plan showing layout of a bedroom, hallway/laundry room, and bathroom in a construction project.
 
You are too young! Until about 1950, plastered interior walls were the most common material. It's perfectly fine to wallpaper on plaster. Of course, you can have lecasten in the bathroom and laundry room and stud walls in the bedroom. The windproofing should be directly behind the drywall or whatever surface layer you want.
 
I do like the old style...

Hmm, in a stud wall construction, how do you keep the insulation in place at the right distance with an air gap against the brick?

Shouldn't the wind barrier come first, then studs/insulation, and then drywall?
 
If you are precise when setting up the wall studs and ensure that the center distance between the studs is 600 mm, the opening measurement between the studs will be 555 mm. The mineral wool boards are 560 mm, so they are clamped between the studs and usually stay in place, especially if you use rock wool. The alternative is to attach battens to the studs against which you can fasten, for example, masonite boards that you can then press the insulation against. But that involves hazardous sawing. You could also try using paper strips. An exterior wall should have an airtight seal on both sides of the insulation. In your case, you can assume that the brick wall is tight since it is mortared. The internal sealing should be placed on the inner side of the insulation.
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.