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189 replies
Rule inside old "brick shell"
Does rock wool come in slabs or rolls? Still bound or can they just lie loose?
All insulation must be windproof on the outermost layer... cellulose and stone wool are good in eaves but then as fire protection... Swedish eaves are a debated topic when it comes to fire protection???
Is a wind barrier sufficient as a windbreak?
Thinking of having the insulation below. Then I will have råspont over it to be able to use the cold attic as a small storage.
Is it enough to have wind barrier between the rafters where the insulation ends at the façade level, do you others think, or should I have hardboard? A board? Or something similar to keep the insulation in place?
The råspont keeps the insulation in place "from above"...
http://www.rockwool.se/produkter/u/2011.product/1732/byggisolering/flexibatts
Is it enough to have wind barrier between the rafters where the insulation ends at the façade level, do you others think, or should I have hardboard? A board? Or something similar to keep the insulation in place?
The råspont keeps the insulation in place "from above"...
http://www.rockwool.se/produkter/u/2011.product/1732/byggisolering/flexibatts
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
Fire protection is important, but in your case with brick exterior walls, it doesn't feel like priority one. Unless you plan to set up a barbecue area right outside... Mineral wool boards can be protected with wind-proof fabric. If you have a wooden frame to press the insulation against, it will facilitate installation. Then you should also keep in mind any common pests (insects, mice etc.).
We have previously discussed not having eaves ventilation. Does that mean I can staple windbreak fabric as wind protection for the insulation and mount boards from underneath on the roof overhang without a 1 cm gap and instead mount them flush against each other?
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
Previously, it was essential to always have soffit ventilation. Today's large amounts of insulation in the attic floor, perhaps 50 cm, have led to a reevaluation of this rule because the attic becomes colder and soffit ventilation contributes to cooling (and thus higher relative humidity). Insulating in the soffit box lacks purpose and only unnecessarily costs money. If the insulation connects to the outer roof (and thus shuts off the soffit ventilation), the soffit box should be ventilated, preferably in the manner I previously suggested.
Okay, I understand! I'll probably check back during the construction 
By the way, I stapled construction plastic on top of the facade to prevent rainwater from getting into the insulation in the wall when the roof wasn't installed. Should I remove the plastic or can I let it stay?
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