Milling down particleboard in floor joists?

[catherineb]

That dashed thing through almost the entire middle lengthwise is a metal beam.

 

[Mikael_L]

I think the designer intended that doubling the studs replaces the weakening caused by the notching. And yes, it can work. Then you should be able to screw-glue floor chipboard in the notched area and be home in terms of strength. It's important that the notching is neatly executed so that the gluing of the boards becomes strong and good.

 

[catherineb]

I think the designer has intended that the doubling of the studs compensates for the weakening caused by the notching.
And yes, it can work.
Then you should be able to screw and glue floor chipboard in the notched area to ensure structural integrity.
It's important that the notching is nicely executed so that the gluing of the boards is strong and secure.

Nice, thanks!

 

[Mikael_L]

The drawings are probably oriented the same way ...
Then the span seems to be only 2680, which doesn't cause any problems in this context.

Then the span in the other direction might be a bigger problem, but there are doubled beams all the way that add another dm to the possible span.

 

[justusandersson]

catherineb can be grateful to have two such skilled and dedicated teachers as Bernieberg and Mikael_L. Mikael's post #65 could be part of a compendium. With the new information both about span and the doubling of certain beams, there are naturally no problems with either deflection or flex. The beam layout in #73 explains a lot. I believe the doubling is primarily to meet flex requirements in the next section. Flex properties are better if you screw-glue two studs at c/c 600 than if you position them separately at c/c 300, as flex is measured independently of span.

 

[catherineb]

Thank you for all the engagement. I have received approval from the house supplier to mill down chipboard into the beams on the relevant surface.

It was just as someone above wrote, they imagined a level difference due to the floor plan design. We will still mill down so we get everything at an even level.

Now to my tool question: I got a tip here that you can use a hand router, but I can't find any router bits that are wide enough for it to go smoothly, the largest I found is F=25, and that only takes half of the beam's thickness.

Is there a more efficient way than milling?

 

[Bernieberg]

You can work with the milling machine a bit sideways, in the width direction of the rule.

 

[mattiasp]

A router is not the right tool for this. Use a hand circular saw (plunge saw with parallel guide is better) and a multi-tool (e.g., Fein Multimaster) to cut out at the beginning and end. The multi-tool can be replaced with a notch with the hand blade and a sharp chisel. Make sure not to overcut at the start and stop, so you don't risk weakening.

 

[catherineb]

A router is not the right tool for this. Use a handheld circular saw (a plunge saw with a parallel guide is better) and a multi-tool (e.g., Fein Multimaster) to cut at the beginning and end. The multi-tool can be replaced with a notch with the hand blade and a sharp chisel. Be sure not to cut too much at the start and stop, so you don't risk weakening.

Thanks!!!