Mats-S Mats-S said:
No, because you have a façade with Norrland kärnvirke, it cannot be compared with the junk you buy at the lumberyard today.
It is perfectly possible to order Norrland kärnvirke even today, you don't need to buy and nail up junk wood on your façade.
 
Mats-S Mats-S said:
What research, source please.
Here is a source, https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1435055/FULLTEXT01.pdf

"The result showed that the moisture content for facade panels with drip noses fluctuated above and below the moisture content for facade panels where the end grain was not beveled, regardless of whether the execution was considered or not. The beveled end grain thus did not prove to be better compared to the non-beveled end grain, which meant that neither hypothesis could gain any support."
 
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Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
How strong a knowledge do you consider yourself to have of it? :)
(Extra points for misspelling Dunning-Kruger)
Haha… I wrote it in the middle of the night, can't spelling errors be excused then?
 
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TRJBerg
The concept of a drip nose relies on basic knowledge of how water behaves on surfaces. (Its effectiveness also depends on the surrounding environment. For example, how often water comes into contact there.)
 
useless useless said:
There is a research report linked earlier in the thread:

[link]

The short version is that it doesn't matter:

"The conclusion based on the irrigation model used was that the drip edge did not have any significance for the moisture protection of wooden facade panels."
Old thread, but I found it now, I'm building and various questions come up when you're busy. Interesting test in the link but I can't help but wonder what water was used. To resemble reality as much as possible, you should use rainwater. "Tap water" is generally harder, rainwater is softer and has lower surface tension. Just a reflection...
 
Q qfrantellus said:
Old thread, but I found it now, I'm building and various questions come up while I'm at it. Interesting test in the link, but I can't help but wonder what water was used. To resemble reality as much as possible, you should use rainwater. "Tap water" is generally harder, rainwater is softer and has lower surface tension. Just a reflection...
Feel free to conduct your own test with the right conditions. Don't forget to report back here. 👍
 
Q qfrantellus said:
Old thread, but I found it now, I'm building and various questions come up as you go along. Interesting test in the link, but I can't help but wonder what water was used. To resemble reality as much as possible, you should use rainwater. "Tap water" is generally harder, rainwater is softer and has lower surface tension. Just a reflection...
Welcome to Byggahus!

If you get lost in such details, you risk @qfrantellus never finishing your house...
 
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Q qfrantellus said:
Old thread, but I found it now, working on building and various questions come up when you're at it. Interesting test in the link but I can't help but wonder which water was used. To resemble reality as much as possible, you should use rainwater. "Tap water" is generally harder, rainwater is softer and has lower surface tension. Just a reflection...
Cut the boards at an angle and you'll be safe. Empirically tested for many years in Sweden.
 
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Tomture61
K Kane said:
Bevel the boards and you're safe. Empirically tested for many years in Sweden.
No need to bevel the outer panel, just primer on the saw cut.
 
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K Kane said:
Bevel the boards and you are safe. Empirically tested for many years in Sweden.
Proper roof overhangs and at least half a meter high stone base have also empirically shown to give longer lifespan to facades. Plastic paint and ground-level (cast slab foundation) are likely to give a shorter lifespan to the facade compared to choosing Byggmax as the supplier, selecting the type of timber like ts, building on properly high posts, without a drip edge, and leaving the facade completely untreated or coating it with distemper paint every quarter-century or every other one.
 
K Kardan79 said:
Or perhaps the OP reacted to being called an idiot for dragging home the panel pieces in the pictures. It depends a bit on how you look at it.
If you have a highly paid academic profession, you probably don't drag boards home yourself (unless you intend to choose the best pieces at the lumberyard) but rather order what you need for your construction and renovation projects and discard any occasional bad piece..
 
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Tomture61 Tomture61 said:
No need to bevel the outer panel, but just apply a base color on the saw cut.
Now, the questioner was unsure about the water quality in the test, so it's best to go all-in....😎.
 
K kurlakarl said:
Because I have an academically high-paying job with specialized knowledge in a completely different field, and I do a bit of carpentry in my free time for fun. I don't know anything professionally about woodworking and I don't work in forestry or whatever other background you might have if you're familiar with terms like "pith" when talking about boards.
Cartoon of a person kneeling while fixing something under a sink, talking to a standing person with glasses. Speech bubble comments on education and needing help.
/Workingclasshero
 
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Tomture61
K Kane said:
Now the questioner was unsure about the water quality in the test so it's just as well to go all-in....😎.
There are tests on the different methods, straight vs angled cut (makes no difference) and only using primer on the saw cut.
This when plastic paint is used.
 
Tomture61 Tomture61 said:
This when plastic paint is used.
Which moreover has proven to be the worst choice for facade painting, it is probably better to leave the wood completely unpainted than to coat the outside and ends with dense paint that does not release moisture.
 
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