What should a well-built external wall look like?

[Suhagg]

Sounds good.
Personally, I might settle for 28x70 as a batten, but that will be very sturdy.
Don’t forget to seal against mice at the bottom (musband?).
I wouldn't bother with boracol or similar. If it's not kept dry enough behind the panel, the panel will rot too. So treating only the battens is a waste.
It’s also a cost, takes a lot of time, and I’d be a bit worried about unnecessary chemicals and the risk of odor.

I've applied some linseed oil on some end grain here and there, which felt a bit exposed to the weather. Only a handful of spots, really. For example, the bottom part of the fascia boards, which always seem to look sad on all houses. They are also painted with really authentic, environmentally unfriendly oil paint.

Have you checked what the cost for facade boards + spacers is, and compared with "regular" cross-battens?

Musband noted.
Regarding the battens, an old carpenter I know who has built with climate boards pointed out that if the battens are too weak, they easily crack and are weak when you nail them. They only sit in these plastic spacers, so they need to be sturdy.

Now I’ve let go of the costs and made up my mind. Now it will be like this so I can move on to the next step. You know how it is with overthinking things

 

[Suhagg]

Wonderful to get a response from you
I'll note down the tip about the sockets in my reminder list.

To be absolutely sure I understand. So it's the climate board that stands flush with the slab, and battens and cladding are outside the edge, so to speak?

In that case, the measurements are

Insulation thickness = 70+195+45 = 310mm
Total wall thickness = 22+22+34+70+195+45+11+13 = 412mm
Wall inside edge of slab 70+195+45+11+13 = 334mm

 

[Mikael_L]

In that case, the measurements are

Insulation thickness = 70+195+45 = 310mm
Total wall thickness = 22+22+34+70+195+45+11+13 = 412mm
Wall inside slab edge 70+195+45+11+13 = 334mm

Yes, that's exactly how I imagine it. So I answer YES, in your previous post.
I am not entirely sure that the outside 70mm climate board should level with the outside foundation, but that seems absolutely most logical.

Total wall thickness = 22+22+34+70+195+45+11+13 = 412mm

As for building permits, I believe that 22 mm of the above (i.e., the battens) are excluded when calculating the building area. For example, trim and corner boards are excluded.

 

[Suhagg]

Yes, that's precisely how I think of it. That is, I answer YES, in your second-to-last post.
I'm not entirely sure that the outer side 70mm climate board should align with the outer side of the foundation, but it seems absolutely most logical to me.

Regarding the building permit, I think that 22 mm is subtracted (that is the battens) when calculating the building area. At least things like molding and corner boards are excluded.

Thank you!

 

[Suhagg]

Yes, that's exactly how I imagine it. In other words, I answer YES, in your previous post. I'm not entirely sure that the outside 70mm climate board should align with the outside of the foundation, but that seems the most logical to me.

As for the building permit, I think you exclude 22 mm from above (i.e., the cladding board) when calculating the building area. For example, trims and corner boards are excluded.

If you align the climate board with the edge of the slab, the entire 22 cladding board + 22 panel + 34 nail batten will overhang the edge of the slab, which will create a slightly odd appearance and shadow on the foundation, I've concluded.

I got the suggestion to have just a little of the 34 nail batten extend over the edge of the slab.

Wall inside the edge of the slab = 34 nail batten but only 20 mm outside the edge of the slab 34 nail batten - 20 which is a more normal overhang = 14

14+70+195+45+11+13 = 348mm that should be inside the edge of the slab

Total wall thickness = 22+22+34+70+195+45+11+13 = 412mm

That's how it will be

 

[martinradbo]

Very interesting thread.
We are building a house according to the passive house standard (or at least close to it), so we are designing walls around 50 cm thick in total.

It will be something like this:
Fiber cement facade (Cembrit) 8 mm
34x70 ventilation gap/nailer panel (angled)
50 mm Västkustskiva
Load-bearing stud 170 mm
Cavity 170 mm
Plastic
Installation layer 70 mm
OSB
Gypsum

170+170 mm sprayed with ecofiber. The installation layer maybe "manual" MU.

Questions:
1. Why invest a lot of money in a Västkustskiva instead of just using wind barrier and increasing the insulation thickness inside the wall?
2. If you're going to use a good Västkustskiva, I want to place it outside the slab and a few centimeters down. What are the arguments against doing so?
3. With fiber cement boards on the outermost layer, they are set with gaps, so rain tightness needs to be inside. Are these insulation boards the best choice, alone or combined with a wind barrier or similar, or are they more suitable when you have a reasonably tight facade (e.g., boarded)?

 

[JOW]

2. I can't think of any arguments against doing it, it protects the sill even more. But I don't think there's any benefit to having many cm of overlap, I would think a maximum of 5cm is enough.

3. On the boards I have seen, you put a rubber strip on the battens at a supported joint and a metal profile (like an h-shape) at a joint without battens underneath. But there might be different options...

 

[Mikael_L]

1. That's what I did. I ignored the "västkustskiva" and instead increased the insulation in the rest of the wall.
With limitations in building area, you can maximize living space with facade panels, and when adding insulation, it can be nice not to have to build too much on the wall thickness, so the distance to the foundation and eaves is not too affected.

2. The drawback I primarily see is aesthetic. (And really just tradition then).
The panel will be far outside the foundation, at least 10cm. The house will look insulated.

You can't bring the västkustskiva very far down over the foundation (though it depends a bit on ...) because the facade panel will get too close to the ground, as it should cover the facade panels and pest stop under the panels.
And you might need edge insulation around the foundation, quickly leaving very few cm to play with between ground level and facade panel. I think this distance should be an absolute minimum of 20cm.

 

[JOW]

Nice wall, by the way.
Isn't it overkill with the west coast panel when you completely break the thermal bridge with the sprayed 170mm wall section?

For the installation wall, it's probably necessary to manually install mineral wool because it becomes easier?
Than spraying it when all the pipes and sockets are there...

 

[martinradbo]

I think aesthetically it looks nice, but opinions differ. Economically, I suspect such a board will be more expensive, but it replaces gypsum, wind barrier, and even 5 cm of insulation, so there might not be that much of a difference in the end.

We will have 40 cm of foam plastic + 10 concrete, so we have 50 cm to work with. The idea is to perimeter insulate + gravel/paving so that the ground is 30 cm below the finished floor. If I let the board go down 5 cm below, and then the panel a few more cm, I still have a 20-23 cm margin, which is more than enough according to me.

 

[JOW]

Economically, I suspect that such a board will be more expensive, but it replaces plasterboard, wind barrier, and even 5 cm insulation, so maybe it won't make much difference in the end.

Yes, of course, you can calculate it if you want.