What should a well-built external wall look like?

[Suhagg]

Want a really good and sturdy exterior wall in a house where I will live and heat for the rest of my life. Windows and doors are of good quality and have good insulation values.

Does this exterior wall need improvement or is it already very good?

Lock/lath 22x170 + 16x45 on nail rule 28. External gypsum board 9 mm as outdoor wind protection and stud bracing. Solid stud frame 45x170, standing 45x45, 45x45 cross-layered (to avoid thermal bridges). Mineral wool insulation 170+45+45 mm three-layer insulation. Age-resistant 0.12 diffusion barrier and joint tape. Pre-cut standing electricity/nail lath 28 mm on the inside of the exterior wall (simplifies electrical and piping and to avoid unnecessary holes in the diffusion barrier). OSB/Gypsum

 

[huggan]

Just have a suggestion. Skip the battens on the inside and place the plastic between the 45 studs.

 

[Suhagg]

I have only one suggestion. Skip the nail battens on the inside and have the plastic between the 45 studs.

Wise. What reasons do you think there might be for not doing as you suggest?
Does this empty space serve any other function you think?
I'm a bit worried that it will create resonance and feel a bit hollow when there's an empty space.

Asked the question about the space here earlier
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggma...ningsutrymme-pa-ca-2tum-bakom-vaggskivor.html

 

[huggan]

You should still have insulation there as well.

 

[Johan Gunverth]

- Place a masonite strip between the exterior gypsum and the nail batten, so that moisture that condenses can flow past the nail batten. Does not affect strength.
- order shorter nails for the panel so that they just go through the nail batten and avoid making holes in the exterior gypsum.

 

[Suhagg]

You should still have insulation there as well.

I was standing and looking at a newly built house from the same supplier and there was no insulation in this space. They call it Eldragningsutrymme.

 

[Suhagg]

- Place a Masonite strip between the exterior gypsum board and nail battens, allowing moisture that condenses to pass by the nail battens. Does not affect strength.
- Order shorter nails for the panel so that they just go through the nail battens and do not make holes in the exterior gypsum board.

Great tips!

 

[huggan]

What difference does it make? You can do what you want and it's approved according to today's rules. If you don't want to save on spikläkten then don't do it.

 

[Denar]

To get a really good wall, I would add raw cladding inside the plaster, or alternatively an OSB board. This makes it easier to screw things onto the walls without having to deal with plugs and finding studs.

For my part, I'm considering using lightweight beams in the walls, a simple way to minimize thermal bridges and use eco-insulation if desired. The system is sold by Sjömarkens isolering ab, for example.

 

[Suhagg]

To get a really good wall, I would add raw wood paneling inside the gypsum on the inside, alternatively an OSB board. This makes it easier to screw things into the walls without dealing with plugs and finding studs.

Personally, I am considering lightweight beams in the walls, a simple way to minimize thermal bridges and use eco-insulation if desired. The system is sold, for example, by Sjömarkens isolering ab.

It will be OSB and gypsum.

 

[Matti_75]

Skip one of the 45 studs on the inside and replace it with a 45 mm West Coast board on the outside. A comprehensive insulation layer without thermal bridges.

 

[Mikael_L]

The best and most affordable wall you get if you copy me.

panel
25x50 nails lath (but 28x70 is better, especially if you paint with outdoor acrylic)
wind barrier (optional to have outdoor plasterboard, asfaboard instead)
horizontal 45 + 45 mm MU
vertical 195 + 195 mm MU
ÅB plastic
horizontal 45 + 45 MU + electrical conduits and possibly water pipes.
OSB
gypsum.

Better but more expensive with coastal boards on the outside and/or lightweight frame.

 

[Mikael_L]

The best and most cost-effective wall you can get by copying me.

panel
25x50 nail battens (but 28x70 is better, especially if you paint with outdoor acrylic)
wind barrier (optional to have outdoor gypsum, asfaboard instead)
horizontal 45 + 45 mm MU
vertical 195 + 195mm MU
ÅB plastic
horizontal 45 + 45 MU + electrical conduits and possibly water pipes.
OSB
gypsum.

And for window openings, you frame them 90mm larger, at least in width.
Then you insert, for example, a 45x120 (possibly 45x145) flush with the exterior 45x45, so you avoid having the frame screws/frame sleeves exactly at the seam between the vertical stud frame and the horizontal 45x45s.

 

[Gabbe1]

I will build 70+170+70mm cross laid in my outer walls. I would have used full coverage insulation on the outside (not västkustskivor but rather cellplast) if it weren't for the fact that I need the horizontal studs on the outside to be able to erect the walls easily.

 

[Suhagg]

The best and most cost-effective wall you can get is by copying me.

panel
25x50 nail battens (but 28x70 is better, especially if you're painting with exterior acrylic)
wind barrier (optional to have external gypsum or asfaboard instead)
horizontal 45 + 45 mm MU
vertical 195 + 195mm MU
ÅB plastic
horizontal 45 + 45 MU + electrical conduit and possibly water pipes.
OSB
gypsum.

Better yet more expensive with west coast boards on the outside and/or light frame structure.

Is the advantage of having the 45 on the outside that there's less risk of pulling in cold through the frame?
I imagine completely without facts that if you have a 170 on the outside, the cold pulls in through the frame further.
The risk of getting moisture further into the construction must also be a risk.

When you run water and electricity in the last 45 space, do you insulate last then?
I mean you run everything and the last thing you do is insulate and then OSB/gypsum.

I will build 70+170+70mm cross-laid in my exterior walls.
I would have used full coverage insulation externally (not west coast boards but rather cellular plastic) if it weren't for needing the horizontal beams externally to be able to erect the walls in a simple way.

Do you opt out of wind barrier or external gypsum and have cellular plastic in this outer layer you mean?
I searched a bit but couldn't find any good examples of this construction.