What should a well-built external wall look like?

[JOW]

On the contrary, Mikael, with worse insulating windows it's easier to see out on chilly autumn mornings

 

[Mikael_L]

Yes, that's one way to see it. d^_^b

 

[daugaard]

One can also count on the fact that if you insulate extra well and reduce energy needs, you might be able to choose, for example, a smaller värmepump for the house, and get back some money directly.

 

[Mikael_L]

One can also count on the fact that if you insulate extra well and reduce energy needs, you might be able to choose, for example, a smaller heat pump for the house and get some money back directly.

A clear point there. d^_^b

 

[Suhagg]

You can also expect that if you insulate extra well and lower the energy needs, you might be able to choose a smaller heat pump for the house, and get some money back directly.

I need something that uses energy so I can take advantage of my 800m ground heat pipe
But that's true, it might save money there too.

I think I will find something better insulated than today's requirements but not quite up to passive house level. It shouldn't cost too much to build.

 

[Mikael_L]

If you want underfloor heating because you think warm floors are nice, then you shouldn't have overly insulated walls?

 

[Mikael_L]

But somewhere it has to stop as well. Cost-wise, time it takes to build, the space it occupies. There’s hardly anything left of the slab when you make 40-45cm thick walls

A golden middle way then.
A reasonable budget and straightforward construction option. 380mm insulation.

Panel 22mm
28-70 Nail battens. (also provides stability)
50 mm facade board
Wind barrier
120 mm vertical studs + 120 mm MU
Insulation layer 95 mm MU (no stud)
"Inner wall" vertical 70 mm + 70 mm MU
Plastic
45mm horizontal + 45 MU (installation layer)
OSB
Plasterboard

Think a bit about where the load will be on the concrete and edge beam if you have a 50mm facade board and then a 120mm load-bearing frame.
And also consider where you plan to screw down the sill if you have edge elements with 100mm foam insulation on the outside.
I think you might need a 145mm frame, at the very least.
Or super foundation.

 

[SBH]

If you want underfloor heating because you think warm floors are nice, then you probably shouldn't have too well-insulated walls?

What do you think, mikeal_l?

 

[Mikael_L]

If I insulate up to passive house standards, no hot water will ever be released into the underfloor heating loops = the floors won't be warmer than the indoor air.

 

[andersmc]

My "optimal" exterior wall looks basically like this:

• Exterior cladding
• Nail stud
• Spacers of board
• Wind barrier (or asfaboard/exterior gypsum)
• Stud frame+MU 120mm (or desired measurement)
• Cavity with only MU 70mm (or desired measurement)
• Vapor barrier (attached to ceiling and floor, no staple holes)
• (Between the plastic and inner stud frame, run cables, etc.)
• Inner stud frame+MU 70mm
• OSB
• Drywall

 

[Mikael_L]

My "optimal" exterior wall essentially looks like this:

• Outer panel
• Nail brace
• Spacers of board
• Weather membrane (or asfaboard/exterior gypsum)
• Frame + MU 120mm (or desired measurement)
• Space with only MU 70mm (or desired measurement)
• Vapor barrier (attached to ceiling and floor, no staple holes)
• (Between the plastic and inner frame, you run cables etc.)
• Inner frame + MU 70mm
• OSB
• Gypsum

But I am still hung up on the width of the sill, placement, and load/force against the slab if you put such a narrow frame on the outside.
With super foundation and ALBA beam, it can work, but with regular L-elements, it has to go wrong.

With L-elements.
I cannot see anything but huge problems getting the load centered 6cm inside the fiber cement board on the outside of the L-element. That is, the load is centered where only 1cm of that concrete wedge remains at the top.
And fastening the sill also becomes a delicate problem; expansion bolts should sit about 5 cm inside the concrete edge.
But there is PL400 ...

 

[Suhagg]

My "optimal" outer wall basically looks like this:

• Outer panel
• Nail batten
• Spacers of board
• Windbarrier (or asfaboard/exterior gypsum)
• Stud frame+MU 120mm (or desired measure)
• Gap with MU only 70mm (or desired measure)
• Diffplastic (attached to ceiling and floor, no staple holes)
• (Between the plastic and the inner stud frame, run cables etc.)
• Inner stud frame+MU 70mm
• OSB
• Gypsum

How do you set the plastic without staple holes? You write attached to ceiling and floor, but won't it be very difficult to keep it in place?

The inner frame, do you attach it in some way to the outer stud frame or how do you make it steady and good?

 

[Flanharry]

Has no one checked Villa Varm's wall construction?

http://www.villavarm.se/vaggar-och-tak-8.asp

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[Mikael_L]

Is there no one who has checked Villa Varm's wall construction?

[link]

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Have you read post #51?

 

[Flanharry]

Have you read post #51?

Sorry...careless of me

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