Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
I would not use it. It is supposed to be diffusion-open but the binder is styrene acrylate, i.e., plastic. The possibility of maintaining the paint seems doubtful.
Good economy in construction is achieved by planning well, using materials with long durability, and surfaces that can be maintained. Think in terms of annual costs instead of investment cost.
Good economy in construction is achieved by planning well, using materials with long durability, and surfaces that can be maintained. Think in terms of annual costs instead of investment cost.
I will also be building the "inner" inner walls with leca 9cm. How do I anchor these to the 15cm inner shell? Drill in reinforcement?
Install metal inner corner angles like "drywall corners" to have a straight line to build against, which can then just be plastered over?
Install metal inner corner angles like "drywall corners" to have a straight line to build against, which can then just be plastered over?
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
It will be a challenge to build with 9 cm lecablock. The difficulty lies in building straight in all directions. Once the mortar has dried, I believe the construction is sufficiently stable for most needs without additional measures. One method is to use wooden battens as support for the masonry that can then be removed. It's probably important here to have mortar in the stötfogarna as well.
9cm will only be between bedroom/bathroom/laundry room and between bathroom/laundry room. However, there should also be interior doors here. I don't want to reduce the internal diameter of the rooms any further, but do you think I should increase the dimension?
Big difference to build with 12cm block?
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
What is important to consider when it comes to lecasten is that it is not a uniformly defined product and that properties and execution may vary with the manufacturer. Therefore, always check the current manufacturer's specifications. For a non-load-bearing interior wall, there is probably no significant difference between 9 and 12 cm, other than it being easier to lay a wider wall than a narrower one. I once built a one-meter-high wall with 12 cm blocks, and I found it quite difficult. For someone accustomed to masonry, I think the difference between 9 and 12 cm is negligible.
Is it possible to build in stages, like 1 m then let it dry and build more, or doesn't that make it easier?
Go up to 15cm after all, then it is worth it, do you think? For simplicity? Can also be bricked with a bricklaying box and groove without full joint then..?
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
I don't think there are any problems with building in stages.
Bite
The order is placed but can be changed if I'm quick. Would you have gone up to 15cm and used strängmurning..?
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
Probably depends mainly on who will do the masonry. Personally, I wouldn't use anything thinner than 15 cm, but as a mason, I'm an amateur. The room dimensions are somewhat important as well. The difference between 9 and 15 is 6 cm. It's minimal if the room's width is 3 meters, but perhaps significant if it's 2 meters.
Mmm leaning towards using 15cm blocks after all ..
Additionally, use the same dimension as skal
Additionally, use the same dimension as skal
Once again, I'm a bit unsure about the first roof truss—should it really align with the plaster on the gable?
Doesn't it require windproofing, counter battens with air gap, and then studs behind? So that it extends quite a bit outside the plaster which might look strange?
How far should the roof overhang be at the gable? Do you just let the roofing boards extend and then attach triangular battens to this for the bargeboard?
If I want 45mm insulation in the cold attic gable, do I frame this on the inside or outside of the roof truss?
Doesn't it require windproofing, counter battens with air gap, and then studs behind? So that it extends quite a bit outside the plaster which might look strange?
How far should the roof overhang be at the gable? Do you just let the roofing boards extend and then attach triangular battens to this for the bargeboard?
If I want 45mm insulation in the cold attic gable, do I frame this on the inside or outside of the roof truss?
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
The first truss should be as far out as possible. If you pull it in, you have to extend the truss itself to be able to attach the panel to the gable. The goal should be that the gable peak's panel extends just outside the plaster. To secure the panel, some additional framing besides the truss is required. Typically, windproofing is not used in cold attics, but with today's high insulation standards, there is some risk of moisture problems if a lot of cold air enters the attic. In Halland, it can be quite windy.
The normal roof overhang on the gable is 30-40 cm. The raw tongue-and-groove board is allowed to protrude, and the lower bargeboard is attached edge to edge with the tongue-and-groove. The upper bargeboard is attached to the end grain of the tongue-and-groove board. Triangular battens are used to achieve an even raise of the roofing felt.
If you want insulation in the cold attic gable, it is placed between the studs attached to the truss, meaning neither outside nor inside.
The normal roof overhang on the gable is 30-40 cm. The raw tongue-and-groove board is allowed to protrude, and the lower bargeboard is attached edge to edge with the tongue-and-groove. The upper bargeboard is attached to the end grain of the tongue-and-groove board. Triangular battens are used to achieve an even raise of the roofing felt.
If you want insulation in the cold attic gable, it is placed between the studs attached to the truss, meaning neither outside nor inside.