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9k views
20 replies
Plaster on the facade
Even a plastered facade requires maintenance. It is not maintenance-free for 30 years! Damage must be repaired, and it must be repainted at regular intervals. (When you feel it has become unattractive.) If damage is not repaired, it spreads quickly! However, it is fairly easy to maintain a plastered facade. For example, no scraping is needed for repainting. Just brush off and stain with lime paint (preferably) or silicate paint. Lime paint is better because it doesn't "build up." Silicate paint creates thicker and thicker layers, thus shortening the lifespan of the plaster. Properly maintained, the plaster lasts 60 - 100 years or even longer. (Poorly maintained, it can be ruined after 20 years.)
hi, I built a split-level house from Trivselhus in a funkis style where the basement is made of leca and the upper part is plastered on Styrofoam. (STO). You can't see any difference. The price was 850 with Styrofoam and slightly less on the leca. In addition, they plastered with a smooth (brushed plaster) on the garage, foundation, and retaining walls. That part went super quickly, it should be good since it was reinforced plaster anyway. To this, an additional cost for scaffolding came (15000 which was annoying). I thought that was expensive! However, I think it looks really good. I just read that it's common with mold in the walls with foam and plaster. I hope that's just rumors or else we’ll have to strip the house in a couple of years.
Handcrafted plaster is preferable to sprayed plaster in my opinion if you are choosing plaster for the façade. You get a completely different surface on the plaster. But it is very important that the person doing this mastering the technique, as it is much more difficult and also a heavier job.
You should also consider what type of plaster to use, silicate-based or silicone-based.
The silicone-based has more advantages over the other because:
- it "breathes" and is water-repellent.
- it is slightly elastic and can absorb some, minimal movements.
- doesn't release color when you touch the surface.
- it doesn't fade much at all.
When plastering new surfaces, a colored surface plaster is preferable. It is slightly etching, which allows it to penetrate the layer below.
Another important thing to consider is that the façade plaster should not have direct contact with the ground. You should have about 15 cm distance to the ground. This is to prevent the plaster closest to the ground (read lawn) from "absorbing" moisture from there. The plaster does not fare well standing in water, so to speak, if puddles form on the ground, and it gets dirty faster.
You should also consider what type of plaster to use, silicate-based or silicone-based.
The silicone-based has more advantages over the other because:
- it "breathes" and is water-repellent.
- it is slightly elastic and can absorb some, minimal movements.
- doesn't release color when you touch the surface.
- it doesn't fade much at all.
When plastering new surfaces, a colored surface plaster is preferable. It is slightly etching, which allows it to penetrate the layer below.
Another important thing to consider is that the façade plaster should not have direct contact with the ground. You should have about 15 cm distance to the ground. This is to prevent the plaster closest to the ground (read lawn) from "absorbing" moisture from there. The plaster does not fare well standing in water, so to speak, if puddles form on the ground, and it gets dirty faster.
Where did you read that mold can occur between polystyrene and plaster? Sounds unreasonable!liila_traktorn said:Hi, I have built a split-level house from Trivselhus in a functional style where the basement floor is in Leca and the upper part is plastered on polystyrene. (STO). You can't see any difference. The price was 850 with polystyrene and slightly less on the Leca. They also plastered with a smooth (brushed plaster) on the garage, foundation, and retaining walls. That part went super fast; it should be good since it ended up being reinforced plaster. There was an additional cost for scaffolding (15000 sour ones). I thought this was expensive! However, I think it looks terribly good. I just read that mold is common in walls with polystyrene and plaster. I hope that's just rumors, or we might strip the house in a few years
Kubicon, the polystyrene/foam insulates better than the Leca, it's a better alternative from all perspectives to have the plaster on the polystyrene compared to the Leca.
Regards
If I understand correctly, it is extremely important that the exterior gypsum is dry when applying the foam board. An expert at Sto, whom I called and spoke with, said that it is better to quickly apply the foam board and that it doesn't matter if it gets wet on the outside, but the exterior gypsum must not be damp when attaching the foam board, otherwise mold can develop between the exterior gypsum and the foam board.Delprotes said:
So, it is not between the foam board and plaster that mold occurs.
Ok, yes this is entirely correct. Wet gypsum is hazardous to health as an unpleasant fungus (stachybotrys atra) tends to live on the gypsum paper.Framerate said:If I understood correctly, it is extremely important for the exterior gypsum to be dry when applying the foam plastic. An expert at Sto, whom I called and talked to, said it was better to quickly apply the foam plastic and that it doesn't matter if it gets wet on the outside, but the exterior gypsum absolutely must not be damp when installing the foam plastic because then mold can form between the exterior gypsum and the foam plastic.
So, it is not between the foam plastic and plaster that the mold appears.
Best regards
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