Thought I'd inquire a bit about Plastered facade.
Price / Sqm etc.
I have a price of about 1100 SEK/sqm where the plaster is on leka blocks mounted around the house. But I also know that you can have Styrofoam instead of Lekablock.
Which should one prefer???
Does the Styrofoam insulate more than the leka blocks??, does the plaster adhere better to leca :-/
Phew, it's a jungle!
Price / Sqm etc.
I have a price of about 1100 SEK/sqm where the plaster is on leka blocks mounted around the house. But I also know that you can have Styrofoam instead of Lekablock.
Which should one prefer???
Does the Styrofoam insulate more than the leka blocks??, does the plaster adhere better to leca :-/
Phew, it's a jungle!
When plastering on styrofoam and/or mineral wool board (such as ground board/West Coast board), you apply a mesh on the outside. The plaster will then primarily adhere to the chicken wire.
Compare with the old classic method of plastering:
The wall is made of wooden planks, and on the outside, one would place a chicken wire with reeds stuck into it. This way, an excellent surface for the plaster to adhere to was achieved.
In the case of leca, I assume you plaster directly onto the leca, as it has very good adhesion properties. However, if you are not satisfied with leca's insulation capability, you can always add a layer of foam or mineral wool and then the mesh to plaster on.
Compare with the old classic method of plastering:
The wall is made of wooden planks, and on the outside, one would place a chicken wire with reeds stuck into it. This way, an excellent surface for the plaster to adhere to was achieved.
In the case of leca, I assume you plaster directly onto the leca, as it has very good adhesion properties. However, if you are not satisfied with leca's insulation capability, you can always add a layer of foam or mineral wool and then the mesh to plaster on.
Two ways to plaster:
1. Plaster directly on the wall, no reinforcement. Used, among other things, on walls built of lättbetong or leca. The plaster remains in direct contact with the underlying wall at all times.
2. Plaster with an underlying sheet of mineral wool or cellplast. The plaster is hung on a reinforcing mesh that is attached with special brackets to the underlying wall that go through the sheet. The sheet can function as additional insulation, where cellplast is more effective insulation at the same thickness. Check, for example, http://www.paroc.se where there are pictures of how it looks.
/hasse
1. Plaster directly on the wall, no reinforcement. Used, among other things, on walls built of lättbetong or leca. The plaster remains in direct contact with the underlying wall at all times.
2. Plaster with an underlying sheet of mineral wool or cellplast. The plaster is hung on a reinforcing mesh that is attached with special brackets to the underlying wall that go through the sheet. The sheet can function as additional insulation, where cellplast is more effective insulation at the same thickness. Check, for example, http://www.paroc.se where there are pictures of how it looks.
/hasse
I would recommend MASTERFACADE, we use it on our dormers to render directly on them.
It is a cement-based board.
Plaster on polystyrene is not very durable, it cracks over time. Moreover, you'll have issues if you want to attach something to the wall.
With the Masterfacade board, it's the same as drilling into concrete.
There are pictures on our website of what it looks like.
You can find it at Ljundbergs.
It is a cement-based board.
Plaster on polystyrene is not very durable, it cracks over time. Moreover, you'll have issues if you want to attach something to the wall.
With the Masterfacade board, it's the same as drilling into concrete.
There are pictures on our website of what it looks like.
You can find it at Ljundbergs.
It was a bit difficult to get the dormers in concrete, so we found the solution with Masterfacade. It will look like the ground floor when we are done with the plastering there. ;D ;Dkubicon said:Sweli !!
do you have more info about this. link or something similar ???
I've now looked through all the pictures of the house assembly. At first, I didn't see how you planned the house, but it turned out great.
It's really easy to plaster directly. We've been recommended to use "konstnärsputs" which you simply apply with a roller. I don't know what it is, but we're going to investigate it.
Link to the company: http://www.ljungberg.se
Here is the brochure:
http://www.ljungberg.se/webb/Fotogalleri.nsf/LookupFiles/masterf/$file/masterf.pdf
If I remember correctly, it only cost just over 200kr/sqm ;D
Good luck!
We have de-prioritized a plaster facade since we thought it would be too expensive, but with masterfacade and "konstnärsputs" maybe we should reevaluate the situation. I have three questions:
1.) Does a plastered facade increase the value of the house compared to a wooden facade?
2.) What does "konstnärsputsen" cost?
3.) If we have received a building permit for a wooden house but change to a plastered house, do we need to amend the building permit then?
Best regards,
David
The price of Masterfacade is only the price of the panel. Then you need to plaster.
The panel is as hard as concrete. I believe there is 50% concrete in the panel. It weighs a lot ;D
Anyone interested in seeing it in reality and living in Stockholm can get our address.
The panel is already on the wall.
It is a much better and more durable method. It's the same as plastering on concrete.
There are several ways to work the panel.
Artist plaster, which looks like plaster but is a painting
Real plaster with something like optiroc plaster.
We don't know which method we will use, we want it to look like the ground floor where we have concrete walls. So we will get back with an answer on this. ;D
Pyroc panel, which is thicker, we will have on the balcony floor where we will have tiles.
The panel is as hard as concrete. I believe there is 50% concrete in the panel. It weighs a lot ;D
Anyone interested in seeing it in reality and living in Stockholm can get our address.
The panel is already on the wall.
It is a much better and more durable method. It's the same as plastering on concrete.
There are several ways to work the panel.
Artist plaster, which looks like plaster but is a painting
Real plaster with something like optiroc plaster.
We don't know which method we will use, we want it to look like the ground floor where we have concrete walls. So we will get back with an answer on this. ;D
Pyroc panel, which is thicker, we will have on the balcony floor where we will have tiles.
1) The advantage of a stucco facade is that you don't need to maintain it as often. A stucco facade lasts 30 years without maintenance. So, in the long run, stucco with this method is cheaper than a wood facade.David said:
We prioritized against a stucco facade as we thought it would be too expensive, but with masterfacade and "konstnärsputs," maybe we should reconsider the situation. I have three questions:
1.) Does a stucco facade increase the house's value compared to a wood facade?
2.) How much does "konstnärsputsen" cost?
3.) If we've received a building permit for a wooden house but change to a stucco house, do we need to amend the building permit?
Regards,
David
2) Don't know, currently investigating
3) Call and ask the municipality, it depends on how they have planned the area if they accept that you stucco instead.
Right now, there seems to be a demand for plastered houses (considering that so many are building with it) so the resale price of the house could be higher. Right now. In the future, demand may be greater or less than today...
Check out the house prices on pre-owned houses and see if there's any difference. I've been looking at pre-owned houses for several years and haven't noticed any significant difference between houses with wooden facades or brick/plaster.
Check out the house prices on pre-owned houses and see if there's any difference. I've been looking at pre-owned houses for several years and haven't noticed any significant difference between houses with wooden facades or brick/plaster.
I wonder if anyone has experienced the difference between the different plaster manufacturers. Two guys came by and had completely different opinions:
One wanted to use STO which was very easy to work with by hand and also quite elastic as it contains a little plastic ???. Additionally, they used plastic nets.
The other guy wanted to use Finja, which was sprayed on and where the nets were made of metal.
And we’re standing like donkeys between two haystacks with no idea who is "right" or which one is best.
What have you heard, what experiences do you have?
One wanted to use STO which was very easy to work with by hand and also quite elastic as it contains a little plastic ???. Additionally, they used plastic nets.
The other guy wanted to use Finja, which was sprayed on and where the nets were made of metal.
And we’re standing like donkeys between two haystacks with no idea who is "right" or which one is best.
What have you heard, what experiences do you have?