IPE beams - strength

[d0nnie]

No, because with that analogy, it becomes silly to hang steel beams on the ceiling you are trying to support

I understand, but then I would like to take the opportunity to turn it around a bit... Could you not then make spans (as I have done in the middle section) all the way out with, for example, 120cc and say 195x45 studs? Then you build in the middle of the existing 120 studs so you build very little upward or downward, I think. The question is whether this still has the same load-bearing capacity as having a whole beam above or below the existing studs.

Hope you understand what I mean...

 

[JOW]

No, you must have whole balkar.

 

[d0nnie]

No, you must have full beams.

Alright! Now I have many solutions that I have to compare and go through. Thanks for all the help and advice, good people

 

[JOW]

A thought that I haven't fully played out in my head yet...

If you take inspiration from a masonite beam...
They have a masonite sheet as the web, and wood on the top and bottom edges.
The role of the masonite/board is to keep the studs at the same distance from each other all the time.
The beam's load-bearing capacity is achieved by the distance between the top and bottom "wood stud."

So, if you install crosspieces in the floor joist as you have done, screw-glue a 2"2 to the crosspieces on both the top and bottom, you get a beam where the tensile and compressive forces are taken up by the 2"2, and the crosspieces maintain the spacing between those studs constant.

I haven't seen or heard of this solution anywhere else... so...
Maybe someone theoretically knowledgeable could answer...

 

[JOW]

And I must add that support is still required in the walls where you place/construct the "balken".

 

[mdab]

The nearest dimension I can find that you can replace an IPE 100 with is glulam 90x225.

 

[d0nnie]

No, you must have full beams.

Another suggestion that combines a bit of everything What do you think about using IPE100 beams (as it was said from the beginning) but mounting them on top of the existing 120x45 joists? You can then secure the IPE beams to the joists with metal straps (http://www.byggmax.se/spik-och-skruv/byggbeslag/balkskor-och-platband/halband-p237310) around the IPE beam itself and fasten it to the joists with anchor screws.

It should give the same effect as having them underneath but with the advantage of building upwards instead (though much less than 220 joists).

What do you think? Is this okay to do?

 

[Strutluvan]

Bought two IPE beams. 160 mm. And hope that it will hold for this construction instead of the columns seen in the picture. Planning to have a beam along the house above the window and the beam that will replace the columns will load the beam along the facade.

So my question now is, Will IPE 160 hold for this? I've become terribly uncertain now.

Best regards

 

[Strutluvan]

 

[JOW]

When it comes to the roof of a house, I would undoubtedly contact an engineer.
Just find someone who sells roof trusses, and they can check your sizing. If it turns out that your purchased IPE beams are sufficient, you only pay for the consultation.

What you need to do is measure your roof trusses (dimension of the wood and placement of all the braces in the truss) and all the measurements you think you might need.
Measurements of the overhang and load-bearing walls as well.
Take pictures of how it looks in the attic above the window section.
It's quite thick between the windows, so there are likely load-bearing posts there as well.

 

[JOW]

Another suggestion that combines a little of everything What do you think about using IPE100 beams (as was said from the beginning) but mounting them on top of the existing 120x45 beams? You can then fasten the IPE beams to the beams with holding bands ([link]) around the actual IPE beam and screw it into the beams with anchor screws.

This should give the same effect as having them on the underside but with the advantage of building upwards instead (though much less than 220 beams)

What do you think? Is this okay to do?

How did it go with the garage? What solution did you end up with?

And to answer the question in the quote, yes it's fine if IPE100 is the beam dimension that can handle the load. An alternative is to weld ears onto the beam that go down to the bottom frame of the truss and screw it together there.

 

[Strutluvan]

A constructor for this type of consultation which companies could I possibly contact then JOW? I live in the Kristianstad area in Skåne. Do you have any idea how I can find someone?

What do you mean by "tjockt mellan fönstrena" and that they would be load-bearing posts?

If you were to guess, do you think the beam is sufficient? and do you think the brick will withstand the point load that comes from the beam?

Thanks for the answer.

/regards

 

[JOW]

Do not know anyone in your region.

Compare the distance between the windows on the wall to the right in the picture against the distance between the windows under the "överhänget".

I do not want to guess if the beams you bought are enough.

 

[d0nnie]

How did it go with the garage? What solution did you choose?

And to answer the question in the quote, yes it's fine, if IPE100 is the beam dimension that can handle the load. An alternative is to weld ears onto the beam that go down to the bottom chord of the truss and bolt it together there.

I've completely missed your question, but better late than never as they say. The short answer is that the project was put on hold since I spent the summer building a patio instead



However, I started thinking about the garage again today and revisited this thread for inspiration. I'm still pondering how to solve it. I’m considering replacing/building on all the lengthwise 120x45 studs to 195x45 and placing 220x45 studs on top and across those (tying them together with joist hangers, as you showed in a picture earlier).

I think this solution is the simplest and above all the cheapest. I'm just unsure if it will be sufficient in terms of stability and strength.