Installing OSB and Drywall

[Stefan N]

That was exactly what I was thinking about! Attach an angle iron to the OSB on the adjoining wall and then let it support where the stud is missing. However, this requires hollowing out the plasterboard right where the angle iron sits on the adjoining wall. The question is whether it wouldn't be easier to insert a new stud then (5 pieces).

You are making it more complicated than it is, just set the angle between OSB and plasterboard, you don't need to remove anything from the plasterboard for it.

 

[Mikael_L]

If you have a nail gun that shoots staples, I recommend using it for the OSB. It goes three times faster, and you don't have to worry about the drywall screws ending up in the same spot as some underlying screw. The staples don't hold for anything, but then you attach the drywall with long drywall screws like 51mm, so both boards stay in place well.

The tricky part, as mentioned, is hitting the studs afterward. In some places, it's easy, and the method can be recommended, while in other places, it might be tricky and thus better to screw the OSB and drywall separately.

I myself used the method of long staples for the OSB in a limited extent and then long drywall screws. But in most places, both layers were screwed separately.

 

[Finndjävel]

You attach to the studs, right, or do you only attach the drywall to the OSB board? Then the drywall would be hanging on a flimsy board, which can't be very stable, can it? It's not more complicated to find the studs when attaching the drywall than when attaching the OSB.

 

[Mikael_L]

If I have put OSB first, I don't really care where the drywall screw goes later. There will be no difference in stability if it only goes into the OSB board or directly into a stud.

 

[anders07]

I always mark the studs with a piece of electrical tape on the ceiling and the floor, and then I try to screw the plasterboard into the studs, but I also splice without a stud behind, it has never been a problem.. M

 

[Maxwells demon]

Att attach to the studs is what you're supposed to do, or are you only attaching the drywall to the OSB board? Then the drywall would be hanging on a flimsy board, which wouldn't be very stable, would it? It's no more complicated to find the studs when attaching the drywall than when attaching the OSB.

Yep. OSB to the stud. Then screw drywall to OSB only. That's why I mentioned it's tricky to find the studs. Stable as heck.
The option of driving a screw through both feels less secure to me in terms of hole quality. You don't get a proper screw connection on the OSB. It's just clamped between the stud and drywall? With movement on the OSB and once the connection settles, you must lose a lot of the binding.

Just some thoughts, I don't have evidence that it turns out like that, but your way.

 

[Mikael_L]

Exactly.

Also, if you attach a gypsum board with a drywall screw only to OSB (not to a stud), the screw head is likely to pass through the gypsum instead of releasing from the OSB. So it adds absolutely no extra strength even if the screw also sits in a stud.

 

[snowjim]

Worked all day again today; most of it was spent unscrewing and labeling wiring unfortunately, something that could have been avoided with prior planning. The screws have hit a total of 3 different pipes, one of which the electricians have already checked and no cables were significantly damaged. They will probably have to pull new ones for the other 2 just to be safe. It’s not that hard to lay new ones when new cables are already in place.

I also had to insert an extra stud behind the plastic I talked about earlier. The bottom one was tricky because there was nothing nearby to attach it to. I could feel there was a black mat against the facade but I didn’t dare to screw into it. Instead, I did a special, I drilled with a large drill halfway through the stud from the side, which allowed the screw and its head to sink deeper towards the side where there is actually a stud in the following manner:


http://i.imgur.com/iUvEAHO.jpg

Black is studs and floor, gray is the corresponding wall, yellow is new recessed studs, and blue are the screws. As you can see, the last stud was pulled in and became slightly crooked, but it feels stable enough to attach the OSB to.

Luckily, the tape was just enough (a few cm over) to seal the plastic again!

We also managed to put up the remaining OSB since there were 4 of us working today. However, it’s a bit complicated with screws on the outer wall; the studs are not 60 cm apart, so sometimes a screw ends up where there’s no stud, which punctures the plastic, but we’re talking about max 10 on the entire wall, so it’s probably no danger.

Before we put up the last OSB, I noted the following:


http://i.imgur.com/PpKBfZx.jpg

In other words, it looks like there was some kind of issue here, but I actually saw that some staples I removed around this area were rusted. Since it’s right under the window, I guess it rained in at some point, I hope that’s the case anyway

Tomorrow it’s onto the plasterboard and hopefully it will go faster!

I’ve sourced screws that are 30 mm long instead of 40 mm but they will still go through both plasterboard and OSB that are together 23 mm. Maybe I need to look for even shorter drywall screws? I suspect I will puncture a lot of plastic on the outer wall otherwise. The alternative is, of course, not to attach the plasterboard all the way to the edge if there isn’t a stud or space behind the OSB.

 

[prototypen]

Notify me if there are any shorter than 30 mm, I'm looking. Long ago there were, but I can't find 25 mm.

It's not a problem if there are holes in the plastic, the screw seals it, haha

Protte

 

[Mikael_L]

Shorter than 30mm is an unusual bird.

I find 25mm here:
http://www.skruvnet.se/Shop/Product/GT-025-Gipsskruvträ-39-x-25-mm/358

Drywall screws for steel studs are easy to find in 25mm. But they drive slower as they have a flatter pitch. And they hold weaker and don't drive as tightly as they have a smaller flange on the threads, but maybe sufficiently?

 

[prototypen]

Drywall screw is not as standard as one might think

25 mm evidently exists
30 mm EVERYONE has
35 mm is available in Denmark
40 mm everyone has
45 mm is available in Denmark
50 mm Biltema has
55 mm everyone has
65 mm Biltema has
75 mm is also quite common

Protte

 

[Finndjävel]

Using screws shorter than 30mm is probably not advisable. The first 5mm of the screw is conical and actually secures nothing, so only a few threads per screw really hold if you use a 25mm screw. A drywall panel weighs almost 30kg, it needs to be secured properly to stay in place. Holes in the plastic are not a problem if there is a stud behind it, another reason to secure it to the stud

Nowadays, the plastic is placed further into the construction so that there is room for electrical installations and screw holes in front without having to puncture the plastic, but this was hardly common in the 1970s.

 

[Finndjävel]

Gypsum screws are not as standard as you might think

25 mm obviously exist
30 mm EVERYONE has
35 mm can be found in Denmark
40 mm everyone has
45 mm can be found in Denmark
50 mm Biltema has
55 mm everyone has
65 mm Biltema has
75 mm is also quite common

Protte

In Finland, the lengths of gypsum screws are 32,35,41,45,51,57,65, and maybe 75, so it seems to vary from country to country.

 

[Mikael_L]

Grabber claims that their G16 http://www.grabber.se/produkter/gipsskruv/ is for both wood and metal studs. Available in 25mm.

 

[cpalm]

Seems easier to put the screws in the studs...