63,491 views ·
129 replies
63k views
129 replies
Installing OSB and Drywall
A few new pictures now that the OSBn is in place and it's time for drywall:

http://i.imgur.com/4H07bPV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tjNXBxm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TqKD0Yb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DzdLQmr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zSfJ5nE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PDzkatC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oZiQzxR.jpg
As you can see, the electricity is marked out and all the studs are laid out in the floor. I won't bother to align the drywall with the studs, but where there are studs, I'll use slightly longer drywall screws. The idea is also not to put screws in all the studs, just where it feels reasonable.
I have noted that in some places a ruler doesn't fit completely, i.e., there is only a 2 mm gap or similar between the OSBn. But I thought I read someone saying that if you set it up in the summer when it's warm, you don't need to worry too much about it?

http://i.imgur.com/4H07bPV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tjNXBxm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TqKD0Yb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DzdLQmr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zSfJ5nE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PDzkatC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oZiQzxR.jpg
As you can see, the electricity is marked out and all the studs are laid out in the floor. I won't bother to align the drywall with the studs, but where there are studs, I'll use slightly longer drywall screws. The idea is also not to put screws in all the studs, just where it feels reasonable.
I have noted that in some places a ruler doesn't fit completely, i.e., there is only a 2 mm gap or similar between the OSBn. But I thought I read someone saying that if you set it up in the summer when it's warm, you don't need to worry too much about it?
How do you saw gypsum? I know you cut through the paper and break it if you want straight cuts, but what about sawing out windows and doors? Can you use a jigsaw with a wood blade or should I buy a cheap hand saw for this?
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 046 posts
I cut everything with a knife.
From the corner and out, you can make a scribe at a 45-degree angle so you can break off the portion of the board that needs to be removed.
Protte
From the corner and out, you can make a scribe at a 45-degree angle so you can break off the portion of the board that needs to be removed.
Protte
There are special plasterboard saws, but an old handsaw will work for straight cuts and a jigsaw for special curves. However, plasterboard is harsh on machines, so try to avoid it.snowjim said:
Unfortunately, I don't have an old handsaw, I have a simple utility knife but don't understand how one can snap when cutting out for, e.g., windows and similar. You would think that a jigsaw should be able to get the job done easily? I have quite a few Bosch wood blades. Otherwise, I can go and buy a drywall saw if it's faster and better?
I mostly use a utility knife and measuring tape, it takes a while to master but you have to start somewhere. I also have a 120cm Hultafors square to facilitate cross cuts. For doors and windows, I usually place it over the drywall and then saw or alternatively measure and cut before, depending on how it looks. I personally use Stanley's drywall saw which I find perfect; it folds up so you save your cuticles when digging in the toolbox. http://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/handverktyg/sagar/specialsagar/gipssag-120078/
Then I really recommend an automatic screwdriver... Faster, easier, cheaper screws...
Then I really recommend an automatic screwdriver... Faster, easier, cheaper screws...
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Sounds like I need to go out and buy a gypsum saw then 
What do you do with the screw holes for the OSB? In many cases, the head has dug in a bit into the OSB, which makes the surface bulge around the hole. Should you sand it down first or will the gypsum handle it?
What do you do with the screw holes for the OSB? In many cases, the head has dug in a bit into the OSB, which makes the surface bulge around the hole. Should you sand it down first or will the gypsum handle it?
I usually completely disregard it - If it's not a really big bump, carve away a little with a morakniv around it.snowjim said:
Nothing around doors and windows will be visible, so it's not really crucial. I always attach the boards over doors and windows. Once in place, I cut them out with a small circular saw or jigsaw. Since there are studs around windows and doors, you have something to hold the blade against. This way, the cut is straight and neat.snowjim said:
You don't have to have a plaster saw either - You can use a utility knife to cut 5-6 times and you're more or less through, and the cut will be cleaner than with the saw. If you don't have one, take the opportunity to buy a surf as well... A must when installing plaster…
http://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/handverktyg/filar-raspar-och-hyvlar/raspar/rasp-121121/
http://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/handverktyg/filar-raspar-och-hyvlar/raspar/rasp-121121/
Member
· Etelä Pohjanmaa
· 2 467 posts
Where there are straight cuts, just cut and break; at doors, windows, and places where there are multiple cuts, you'll need to saw. It works perfectly with a jigsaw, you can't go wrong.
Thank you for all the input, I think I'll try using a jigsaw first for the windows and doors.
Does it matter which way you place the drywall? One side is gray and the other side is white, and the gray side has measurements and some other information.
Does it matter which way you place the drywall? One side is gray and the other side is white, and the gray side has measurements and some other information.