Hello,
I'm in the process of installing OSB and drywall, both measuring around 1200x2400. I've seen videos where they install OSB horizontally and the drywall vertically, but I've also read quite a bit about installing both OSB and drywall vertically with an offset of 30 cm or something similar.
How does it work around doors and windows? Should you try to calculate and position so that you have full pieces around these to avoid cracks if someone slams a door?
In this case, we have 60 cm on center, but there's a lot of extra studs that we will partly attach to as well to avoid noggings.
When installing the drywall, it's not so important to attach to the studs, but is it important to use different screw lengths for the stud versus just OSB?
I'm in the process of installing OSB and drywall, both measuring around 1200x2400. I've seen videos where they install OSB horizontally and the drywall vertically, but I've also read quite a bit about installing both OSB and drywall vertically with an offset of 30 cm or something similar.
How does it work around doors and windows? Should you try to calculate and position so that you have full pieces around these to avoid cracks if someone slams a door?
In this case, we have 60 cm on center, but there's a lot of extra studs that we will partly attach to as well to avoid noggings.
When installing the drywall, it's not so important to attach to the studs, but is it important to use different screw lengths for the stud versus just OSB?
I can recommend the Gyproc handbook for lots of tips and facts on this subject. http://ehandbok.gyproc.se/Gyproc/GyprocHandbok/
Thank you! However, it seems that their installation manual should be checked, which can be found here: http://ehandbok.gyproc.se/Gyproc/GyprocSE/GyprocMonteringshandbook2012/
Notes:
- Mount gypsum 5-10 mm above the floor to minimize water damage
- The outer layer should always be mounted vertically for higher stability
- The outer layer should be staggered, 1200 should be staggered 600 mm while 900 should be staggered 450 mm
- Avoid butt joints vertically, but if necessary, use short stud and shift the joint by 150 mm (there are more regulations here to read up on if compelled to do this)
- cc 450 mm implies using Gyprox ER which has reduced sound insulation, instead use cc 600 mm Gyproc XR
- The second layer of gypsum is mounted with a 7-10 mm gap along the ceiling, adjoining walls, and floor. These gaps are later sealed with acoustic sealant.
- Gypsum boards should be placed tightly next to each other and if more than 3 mm gap occurs, it must be filled if fire risk is to be met.
- Use 4-5 screws along the long edges, starting from the floor, once all screws are fitted, supplement them
- Joints should be over openings and not along to avoid cracks. This can be disregarded but if so, metal tape should be used to minimize cracks.
Questions:
1. It states to use GT-list which is stapled to the wooden stud; what is this? And is it the second layer this applies to?
2. How do I determine the screw spacing for OSB and Gypsum?
3. On the exterior wall, there is no short stud or rule at the bottom near the floor, probably the floor needs to be torn up to access it which we won't do. Moreover, insulation and plastic are already in place, so it will be difficult to put in new short studs. The closest short stud in the wall from the floor is at cc 60, is that enough?
4. Regarding the last layer, should corner protection and strips between boards be added? It mentioned something about protecting outer corners on page 26? At the same time, there is a mention of reinforcing around windows and doors? This wasn't done previously?
Notes:
- Mount gypsum 5-10 mm above the floor to minimize water damage
- The outer layer should always be mounted vertically for higher stability
- The outer layer should be staggered, 1200 should be staggered 600 mm while 900 should be staggered 450 mm
- Avoid butt joints vertically, but if necessary, use short stud and shift the joint by 150 mm (there are more regulations here to read up on if compelled to do this)
- cc 450 mm implies using Gyprox ER which has reduced sound insulation, instead use cc 600 mm Gyproc XR
- The second layer of gypsum is mounted with a 7-10 mm gap along the ceiling, adjoining walls, and floor. These gaps are later sealed with acoustic sealant.
- Gypsum boards should be placed tightly next to each other and if more than 3 mm gap occurs, it must be filled if fire risk is to be met.
- Use 4-5 screws along the long edges, starting from the floor, once all screws are fitted, supplement them
- Joints should be over openings and not along to avoid cracks. This can be disregarded but if so, metal tape should be used to minimize cracks.
Questions:
1. It states to use GT-list which is stapled to the wooden stud; what is this? And is it the second layer this applies to?
2. How do I determine the screw spacing for OSB and Gypsum?
3. On the exterior wall, there is no short stud or rule at the bottom near the floor, probably the floor needs to be torn up to access it which we won't do. Moreover, insulation and plastic are already in place, so it will be difficult to put in new short studs. The closest short stud in the wall from the floor is at cc 60, is that enough?
4. Regarding the last layer, should corner protection and strips between boards be added? It mentioned something about protecting outer corners on page 26? At the same time, there is a mention of reinforcing around windows and doors? This wasn't done previously?
But just screw in a moderate amount... 15-20cm apart on the sides and sparser in the middle.
Make sure to stagger the joints above the doors.
I wouldn't put any nogging at the bottom, as there will be fittings and moldings.
I usually quickly check the best way to set the OSB, then see how it works with the plasterboard; sometimes you might need to cut an OSB lengthwise to minimize waste.
Make sure to stagger the joints above the doors.
I wouldn't put any nogging at the bottom, as there will be fittings and moldings.
I usually quickly check the best way to set the OSB, then see how it works with the plasterboard; sometimes you might need to cut an OSB lengthwise to minimize waste.
The OSB isn't as important, but try to plan so you need to cut as few plasterboards as possible to avoid seams (=more work to spackle later). I have always used vertical OSB and then offset the plasterboard by one stud. Usually, I cut an OSB to 60 cm at the start of the wall, so I can then begin directly with a whole plasterboard at 120 cm.
The rulebook is extremely anal (I find no other word), and I've found that common sense is quite sufficient! Having OSB behind gives you a sturdy base. However, avoid seams at height and try to cut plasterboards that go above doors/windows in an "L" shape, so you don't get a plasterboard seam running straight up from the frame. You can, however, seam the OSB at the edge. I usually use 20 cm for screws around the edges of the boards and 30 cm down the middle.
A good tip is also to start screwing the OSB 5 cm down/in from the corner and then the plasterboard in the middle of the corner, so you avoid most "clashes."
The rulebook is extremely anal (I find no other word), and I've found that common sense is quite sufficient! Having OSB behind gives you a sturdy base. However, avoid seams at height and try to cut plasterboards that go above doors/windows in an "L" shape, so you don't get a plasterboard seam running straight up from the frame. You can, however, seam the OSB at the edge. I usually use 20 cm for screws around the edges of the boards and 30 cm down the middle.
A good tip is also to start screwing the OSB 5 cm down/in from the corner and then the plasterboard in the middle of the corner, so you avoid most "clashes."
And I always do the opposite - Start with a full OSB and then take a half drywall in the corner, this is to avoid the plaster groove in the corner since it is a bit tricky to fix. Just finish with a flexible sealant. Also, not all corners are straight, so it is an excellent opportunity to trim the drywall and use a laser or level to make sure the first sheet stands straight... The other half becomes the start in the other direction or the finish of the existing one.anders07 said:
A bit of an odd attitude, I think. It's understood that the "rule book" describes "best practice" and then you decide to what extent you want to deviate from this? But if you've never done it before, a lot can go wrong if you just rely on common sense.anders07 said:
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If you have a nail gun that shoots staples, I recommend using it for the OSB. It goes three times faster and you don't have to worry about the drywall screws ending up in the same place as any underlying screw. The staples don't hold much, but then you secure the drywall with long drywall screws about 51mm, so both boards are well-fastened.
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Doesn't it still depend on how much common sense one is gifted with?cpalm said:
Aha, OK, yes, that can be the case. Personally, I find this particular handbook exemplary and easy to absorb, but we are all different.anders07 said:
That sounds complicated. You have to find the stud when putting up the drywall.Finndjävel said: