Installing OSB and Drywall

[prototypen]

If you need to saw, only saw the short cut and score the long one. Gypsum dust really makes a mess. If the saw cut is slightly angled, it's easier to break.

Protte

 

[snowjim]

It has been a long day today, put up drywall on 2 walls. Unfortunately, I had to place a joint in the middle of a bunch of VP pipes, so I used 30 mm screws instead of 40. OSB is 10, drywall is 12.5 so it totals about 8 mm that the screw protrudes on the backside towards the VP pipes. I sincerely hope it won't be a problem!

 

[anders07]

I usually use a hacksaw blade when cutting drywall. I also use it after I've scored and snapped the sheet to cut off the lower paper layer.

Same here!

Above the door/window (if there is space behind), I first make the long vertical cut on the back, screw up the sheet, saw the horizontal cut, and break outward.

 

[twoody]

When I run osb, I always use an 80 mm hole saw and then use a 70 hole saw on the plasterboard. And never screw more than 20 cm apart, there's no reason to skimp as it doesn't cost extra to always space the screws a little closer.

 

[-RB-]

When I work with OSB, I always use an 80 mm hole saw and then use a 70 hole saw on the gypsum. And never screw more than 20 cm apart, there's no reason to be stingy, it doesn't cost extra to always have a little tighter spacing between screws.

I also rarely use screws longer than 20 cm for the gypsum

 

[Finndjävel]

I also rarely use screws longer than 20 cm for drywall

I usually attach the drywall with meter-long threaded rods that I bolt on the inside and outside of the wall.

 

[twoody]

I usually attach the plaster with one-meter threaded rods that I bolt to the inside and outside of the wall.

How do you then apply the joint compound?

 

[Bob_the_builder]

How do you spackle then?

Thick?

 

[snowjim]

I've put quite a few screws in the drywall, maybe 5 along the long sides, why would I need more? 4 screws in total can hold a panel in place without a problem. The only issue I've seen is that the board can bulge slightly against the adjacent board, but if you add a few more screws, for example, 5 per long side, that problem disappears, at least seemingly.

Here are some photos of how far we've come:


http://i.imgur.com/y4R1Vev.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/sKyqS2U.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/t6qwlDj.jpg

Then we have the problem area where we, of course, encountered a seam!


http://i.imgur.com/f8pv4F8.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/lWPYuNo.jpg

The first thought was to completely skip putting screws there since it will be behind the fridge anyway, but you never know what you might decide to do in the future so I put 30 mm screws there. This means they protrude about 8 mm on the backside. On the backside, there are VP tubes that have some room to move except at the top (where I now see I've also put a screw) and at the bottom.

There is, of course, a risk that a screw has made its way into a tube but hopefully, no wires have been damaged. If a screw has made its way into the VP tubes, of course, there's a risk that newly pulled wires may be damaged.

The options are:

A. Leave it as it is and hope for the best
B. Pull out the screws and leave it as it is
C. Take down the panels, place a panel in the middle of the seam and cut 2 pieces to place on the sides. There's a big risk that seams with OSB will be the same, but if you measure and adjust, you can probably get some offset anyway.
D. Look for 20 mm drywall screws but that seems very difficult to find?

I have to say the electricians haven't been very considerate when running the electricity, they seem to have managed to run it around the area where IKEA's rail for the kitchen is to be set later.

 

[snowjim]

Bought a T-square at Jula, usually have a rule to avoid Jula's own made-up brands, but here I was foolish enough to buy it anyway. This was the one I bought: http://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-...ment/matverktyg/vinkelmatare/t-vinkel-159012/

We used it when putting up OSB and didn't think much about it, but now when I checked it in connection with the plaster, it's completely off track!? If you add the small 25 cm Hultafors try square, you can already see that it's off by 0.5 cm, which in the end can make a big difference. It's definitely going back, and then in the future, one should make sure to buy branded measuring instruments even if they cost a lot more.

 

[RoBo]

From Norgips page.

 

[Finndjävel]

How do you fill then?

Fill, what is that? I use the threaded rods to hang paintings on

 

[snowjim]

We have discussed and decided to remove the screws again and then leave it as it is. There is an outlet for the fridge right above it, so this joint will always be covered, thus there is no reason to put a lot of work into it now to get a perfect joint.

Then we'll adjust so that there is about 20 cm between each screw.

The question is, where do you buy acoustic sealant that the instructions say should be placed between walls and ceiling? I suspect that latex or tec7 won't work?

 

[Finndjävel]

You must tighten more so there is less pressure on each screw head. Otherwise, there is a risk that the screw heads will go through and the whole board will come down after a while. It's just a little paper holding it in place.

 

[thomas33]

I've placed quite a few screws in the drywall, maybe 5 along the long sides, why would I need more?

Now it's not like hanging a picture or a shelf when you're fastening drywall. The screws should hold the board in place at different temperatures and humidity levels. It's penny-wise and pound-foolish to screw so sparsely as you have done. Redo it, do it right.