TotalControl said:
That sounds tricky. You have to find the rule when you put up the drywall.
??? C/C 60 maybe?
 
Finndjävel said:
??? C/C 60 maybe?
Yes, that is the usual cc for wall panels in non-bathroom areas.
 
Today, I put up a whole 2 1/4 OSB board, and it's safe to say that it doesn't go quickly! However, I didn't start until 2 o'clock and worked until 8 o'clock.

Probably, we are crazily inexperienced :) I hope it goes a bit faster tomorrow now that we know how to do it. What I don't like, though, is that there are quite a lot of screws in the OSB since we have many studs, which will likely make it more difficult to attach the drywall. Also, unfortunately, the screws are a bit irregular since it felt best to alternate the screws that are in the middle of the planks. The screws at the edge are set about 20 cm apart, and the ones in the middle are set every other one at 40 cm.

The Hole-in-one from Biltema works, but they are far from perfect. The magnet can vary by 1 cm in different directions, so you're not really sure where the center truly is!? Since we drilled with 75 mm that's a tight fit, we had to file to make the boxes fit.

Right now, we are about to start a new wall, and we've noticed that we missed placing a stud in the very corner. It's about 20-30 cm to the nearest stud, so if we don't put one here, there's a risk of cracks in the corner. At the same time, it's meant to have tall cabinets here, so it wouldn't really matter, but something in the back of my mind says you never know if you decide to remove the tall cabinet in 15-20 years ;) Right now, I'm leaning towards not putting a stud there because I feel lazy after a day's work, but it would have been nice to place a stud there anyway ;)
 
TotalControl said:
Yes, it is the customary cc for wall panels in non-bathroom areas.
C/C 45 cm is the standard these days. You mostly work with 90 cm wide panels.
 
snowjim said:
Today I put up a whole 2 1/4 OSB board, it’s a shame to say it goes quickly! However, I didn't start with it until 2 o’clock and kept on until 8 o’clock.

We're probably crazily inexperienced :) Hopefully, it goes a bit faster tomorrow now that we know how to do it. What I don’t like, however, is that there are quite a lot of screws in the OSB since we have many studs, which in turn will probably make it harder to attach the drywall. Also, unfortunately, the screws have ended up somewhat irregular as it felt best to stagger the screws in the middle of the planks. The screws on the outer edge are placed about 20 cm apart and those in the middle are placed every other, so 40 cm.

Hole-in-one from Biltema works but they are far from perfect. The magnet can shift 1 cm in different directions so you don’t really know where the center really is!? Since we drilled with 75 mm that just fits, we have had to file and tinker to get the boxes to fit.

Right now we are about to start a new wall and we have noticed that we missed placing a stud at the very edge of the corner. It is about 20-30 cm to the nearest stud, so if we don’t set one here, there is a risk of cracks in the corner. At the same time, it’s intended that tall cabinets will stand here, so it really wouldn't matter, but something in the back of my mind says you never know if you decide to remove the tall cabinet in about 15-20 years ;) Right now, I'm inclined not to put a stud there because I feel lazy after a day’s work, but it would be nice to put a stud there anyway ;)
Measure out the center of the boxes, drill beforehand with an 80 cutter in the OSB, then use the hole-in-one in the drywall, they don’t work in hard material.
 
RoBo said:
Measure the center on the boxes, drill first with, for example, an 80 mill cutter in the OSBn, then use holeinone in the plaster, they don't work in hard material.
They work excellently in chipboard, so they should also work with OSB. The trick may be to feel what is "in the middle" magnetically before you release it against the surface. +/- 5mm is no problem for the hole saw to find its way to the exact center.
 
Bob_the_builder
Johan Gunverth said:
They work excellently in chipboard, so they should also work with OSB. The trick might be to feel what is "in the middle" magnetically before releasing it against the surface. +/- 5mm is no problem for the hole saw to find its way to the exact center.
I agree. It's not just about throwing the magnet on but it requires a bit more finesse. When I've been sloppy and got an offset hole, I just tilted the socket cutter and made the hole oval in the right direction.
 
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Finndjävel said:
If you have a nail gun that shoots staples, I recommend using it for the OSB. It goes three times faster, and you don't have to worry about the drywall screws ending up in the same spot as some backing screw. The staples don't hold much, but then you attach the drywall with long drywall screws, like 51mm, so both boards are well secured.
If you watch this episode of "How the Carpenter Does It", you can see on the wall that they've stapled? the drywall sheets. Does anyone have experience with this? It seems very convenient, but I haven't seen it before. Does it hold over time? https://youtu.be/c-7TstT4HqA
 
I think it's minimal risk to hit an OSB screw with the drywall screw, it happened to me like 3 times in a 2x3m bathroom.

I don't think you should worry too much about possibly doing this or that in 10-20 years... cross that bridge when you come to it... finish the renovation and deal with that "hit" then.
 
Bob_the_builder said:
Agree. It's not just about throwing on the magnet; it requires a bit more finesse. When I've been careless and ended up with a misaligned hole, I've just tilted the hole saw and made the hole oval in the right direction.
Works as you say but doesn't take long before the hole gets worn out since the drill doesn't move sideways.
 
If you want better control over the distance between screws, you can use an old electrician's trick. We attached cable ties to the shaft of the hammer, extending 20 cm when we nailed conduit clips. After nailing one clip, the end of the tie showed where the next one should go. Attach a string, tape, or something similar hanging from the drill, and you'll quickly see where 20 cm is... :)

And when you hit a screw in the OSB through the drywall, it's not the end of the world. It creates an extra hole, but it will be filled anyway. However, it's good to have a snap-off blade knife in your back pocket to cut away the paper from the drywall that comes up immediately! It's very annoying when it comes up otherwise when you start filling...
 
Bob_the_builder
RoBo said:
Works as you say but it doesn't take long for the hole to wear out since the drill doesn't move sideways.
If you mean the hole in the socket part of HiO, I tilt the disc to widen the hole.
 
Bob_the_builder said:
If you mean the hole in the box part of HiO, I tilt the disc to widen the hole.
Sadly, most don't have that insight, resulting in wear and extra holes in the box part.
 
S
Finndjävel said:
If you have a nail gun that shoots staples, I recommend using it for the OSB. It goes three times faster, and you don't have to worry about the drywall screws ending up in the same place as some underlying screw. The staples don't hold much, but then you attach the drywall with long drywall screws, like 51mm, so both boards are well secured.
that won't be good. eventually, the wall will creak.
 
S
TotalControl said:
It sounds tricky. You have to find the stud when you put up the drywall.
Pencil mark at the top and bottom?
Otherwise, with correct stud spacing, you'll hit the right spot.
 
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