Mikael_L
blackarrow blackarrow said:
It should be an exhaust vent in a walk-in closet. Then a little leaking supply air between the door and threshold is enough. You cut off the door 1-2 cm at the bottom, or there's a milling in the frame at the top. Our walk-in closet has a milling at the top of the frame.

A closet built against an outer wall in a poorly insulated house, for example, a kattvind, can cause clothes to have a bad smell in a poorly insulated house.

Normally, the gap between the "Ikea door" and the closet should suffice. You can adjust the door a little extra if you want.
Wasn't it the built-in space around the closet that was being referred to?
 
People who fill in spaces clearly have too large a living space…😉
 
B b8q said:
People who build over spaces clearly have too large a dwelling…😉
Perhaps also in combination with their own gold reserve that they then forget about.
Will surely be found by some influencers in a couple of generations.
 
S sinuslinus said:
Here you can clearly see the depression

[image]
Yes, but what is causing this? The gypsum board is completely flush against the wardrobe underneath, so it can't be that. The stud is also snug and fastened against the wardrobe.
 
slothy slothy said:
Yes, this is an interesting question for me as a new homeowner who doesn't even know which end of the ladder should be up. Do you need to drill holes and install ventilation grilles for this kind of thing?
A problem with enclosed spaces that cannot be inspected is that IF something goes wrong, it can take a long time before it's discovered.
 
tommib
Have you read the thread? If you have used standard plasterboards, they have a bevel on the long sides. That's what is visible in the picture. It is usually cut off when connecting to a wardrobe like that.

It's not a rule that "shows through," it's the plasterboard that looks like that.
 
Rejäl said:
Look at the picture in post #26 and you will see that there is a recess in your drywall, if you place two such sheets against each other, it creates a recess of about 100mm.
Oh wow.. Now I think I understand! It must be because of that. Thanks for the clear answer! It wasn't easy to know 😅
 
  • Like
Appendix
  • Laddar…
tommib tommib said:
No, you can see the beveled edge on the board. The mistake, as has already been noted, is that the OP didn't cut off that part when mounting against the wardrobe. It's an easy but unnecessary beginner's mistake.

To do it right, it's probably best to tear down the gypsum board and redo it. It's a good idea to watch a video on how to do it before round 2.
So what I should have done is cut off 10 cm of the edge to get a completely straight side? Are there no gypsum boards without that bevel? I wanted the straightest part against the wardrobe for aesthetics but had no idea this bevel was along the side... But now I know for next time!
 
Last edited:
Mikael_L
M Mjärn said:
Are there no plasterboards that don't have that recess?
Yes, but they are quite uncommon and few people want to buy that type, so they are not available in most building stores.
 
Nissens Nissens said:
You embed paper strips in the corners with spackle. The recessed edges should be there. 😊 The strips are even "pre-creased" just for this.
I used checkered perforated strips. However, they are 5 cm wide. But the recess is 10 cm? How does that add up? 🤔
 
  • Roll of fiberglass mesh tape, 100 m x 5 cm, used for reinforcing plastered seams between drywall panels. Price: 89,95 per roll.
D Derbyboy said:
But TS does not remove the insurance on the plasterboards closest to the closet and then thinks that it is the rule behind that shines through……
Have you never been a beginner sometime? What is the purpose of the comment?
 
  • Like
naikon
  • Laddar…
D daugaard said:
The big question might be: Will there be issues with moisture in the built-in space?
Why would it be?
 
N Nickesågen said:
Get a grip, this is getting ridiculous. Are you trolling or playing dumb?
Comments like these should be avoided entirely, but I must know. What are you doing on this forum? I'm a beginner trying to learn from my mistakes. If I don't understand, what do you think I should do then? It's easy for you who seems to be an expert (doubtful). Really embarrassing comment from you.
 
  • Like
Andreas_kalmar and 1 other
  • Laddar…
boihus123 boihus123 said:
Is it wallpaper? frame it with some nice moldings. If it's painted, just spackle and paint
I covered the plaster with restoration wallpaper. Yes, I'm going to look around for moldings and consider if one could look nice. Considering the color of the wall, the dent is barely noticeable, so the question is if it's worth it. But it's a good tip for a fix!
 
Mikael_L Mikael_L said:
You have to look at primarily 3 parameters:
1. How much moisture is generated in the space
2. How diffusion-open is the enclosed space
3. What are the temperatures inside and outside.

If there is no moisture source in the space (someone breathing, water leakage, moisture through diffusion from an adjacent area), then it is almost risk-free, but you should still allow for the possibility that some small amount of moisture can form.

If walls or ceiling/floor are diffusion-open to dry spaces next to them, small amounts of moisture will always escape.

Temperatures can be important; if it is colder in the enclosed space, the risk increases that the moisture level rises and, in the worst case, moisture may condense.

Yes, there's a lot to consider if you want to think about all parameters, but it's probably easiest if you have a clear practical example to think about and reason through.
Directly behind the wardrobe's back is now a narrow cavity about 30 cm wide. And behind that wall is an attic nook that I cannot access.
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.