20,971 views ·
110 replies
21k views
110 replies
How to prevent the studs from showing through OSB and drywall?
Wasn't it the built-in space around the closet that was being referred to?blackarrow said:
It should be an exhaust vent in a walk-in closet. Then a little leaking supply air between the door and threshold is enough. You cut off the door 1-2 cm at the bottom, or there's a milling in the frame at the top. Our walk-in closet has a milling at the top of the frame.
A closet built against an outer wall in a poorly insulated house, for example, a kattvind, can cause clothes to have a bad smell in a poorly insulated house.
Normally, the gap between the "Ikea door" and the closet should suffice. You can adjust the door a little extra if you want.
A problem with enclosed spaces that cannot be inspected is that IF something goes wrong, it can take a long time before it's discovered.slothy said:
Have you read the thread? If you have used standard plasterboards, they have a bevel on the long sides. That's what is visible in the picture. It is usually cut off when connecting to a wardrobe like that.
It's not a rule that "shows through," it's the plasterboard that looks like that.
It's not a rule that "shows through," it's the plasterboard that looks like that.
Oh wow.. Now I think I understand! It must be because of that. Thanks for the clear answer! It wasn't easy to know 😅Rejäl said:
So what I should have done is cut off 10 cm of the edge to get a completely straight side? Are there no gypsum boards without that bevel? I wanted the straightest part against the wardrobe for aesthetics but had no idea this bevel was along the side... But now I know for next time!tommib said:
No, you can see the beveled edge on the board. The mistake, as has already been noted, is that the OP didn't cut off that part when mounting against the wardrobe. It's an easy but unnecessary beginner's mistake.
To do it right, it's probably best to tear down the gypsum board and redo it. It's a good idea to watch a video on how to do it before round 2.
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Comments like these should be avoided entirely, but I must know. What are you doing on this forum? I'm a beginner trying to learn from my mistakes. If I don't understand, what do you think I should do then? It's easy for you who seems to be an expert (doubtful). Really embarrassing comment from you.N Nickesågen said:
I covered the plaster with restoration wallpaper. Yes, I'm going to look around for moldings and consider if one could look nice. Considering the color of the wall, the dent is barely noticeable, so the question is if it's worth it. But it's a good tip for a fix!boihus123 said:
Directly behind the wardrobe's back is now a narrow cavity about 30 cm wide. And behind that wall is an attic nook that I cannot access.Mikael_L said:
You have to look at primarily 3 parameters:
1. How much moisture is generated in the space
2. How diffusion-open is the enclosed space
3. What are the temperatures inside and outside.
If there is no moisture source in the space (someone breathing, water leakage, moisture through diffusion from an adjacent area), then it is almost risk-free, but you should still allow for the possibility that some small amount of moisture can form.
If walls or ceiling/floor are diffusion-open to dry spaces next to them, small amounts of moisture will always escape.
Temperatures can be important; if it is colder in the enclosed space, the risk increases that the moisture level rises and, in the worst case, moisture may condense.
Yes, there's a lot to consider if you want to think about all parameters, but it's probably easiest if you have a clear practical example to think about and reason through.

