How to prevent the studs from showing through OSB and drywall?

[Mjärn]

It depends a bit.
There should be an exhaust vent in a walk-in closet. A little leaking intake air between the door and the threshold should suffice. You can saw the door 1-2 cm at the bottom, or there might be a recess at the top of the frame. Our walk-in closet has a recess at the top of the frame.

A closet built against an exterior wall in a poorly insulated house, such as a kattvind, can give clothes a bad smell in a poorly insulated house.

Normally, the gap between the "Ikea door" and the closet is sufficient. You can adjust the door outward a bit more if desired.

The back of the closet is one of those super-thin boards that would break immediately if I put a bit of force on it. There is a small gap at the top because there's nothing to nail into the upper part (since the upper part of the ceiling is sawn off to fit the sloped ceiling). So, air should be able to get into the space anyway. Hope that's enough!

 

[Mjärn]

I thought more that he found the picture and wanted to be a little funny. The error itself is nothing strange, I agree with that. But it's the OP's response that makes me suspicious

Do you feel cool when you go into people's threads and humiliate beginners?

 

[Viktor.J]

Do you feel cool when you go into people's threads and humiliate beginners?

No. Have I done that?

 

[Mikael_L]

Directly behind the back of the wardrobe, there is now a narrow void of about 30 cm. And behind that wall, there's a kattvind that I can't access.

I doubt you need to be worried about anything with moisture.
(Someone else asked the question and started the sidetrack, but I'll answer like this now)

 

[Mjärn]

I doubt you need to worry about anything related to moisture.
(Now it was someone else who asked the question and started the sidetrack, but I'll answer like this now)

Yes, I doubt it too ☺️

 

[Mikael_L]

I used checkered perforated strips. However, they are 5 cm wide. But the recess is 10 cm? How does that work?🤔

You fill the bevel of the gypsum edge with filler, and the strip is used as reinforcement/armoring.

Gypsum boards are kinda funny; they are quite strong, but essentially weak, kind of made from icing sugar, sorta.
It's the paper on either side of the gypsum that transforms the weak gypsum into a fairly strong and durable board.
Remove the paper, and it will break just by looking at it too hard.
(This means there are things to consider when screwing them up, for example, the paper can't tear around the screw head, that's why the head on gypsum screws is specially designed, they can recess the head about 1mm below the paper surface without the paper breaking around the screw (feel free to test a little on a scrap piece of gypsum and stud, it's a good tip for beginners, so you get the feel for how hard/deep you can screw), if the paper tears around the screw head, just place a new screw nearby, and be careful that it's good there).

The paper strip does the same thing for the joint between gypsum boards; it reinforces the otherwise quite weak filler. Without a strip, the filler cracks with the slightest movement.

You have an image of a fiberglass strip there, which is absolutely a worse choice than a paper strip, as it does not provide the same resistance to movement between the boards.
When I built the garage, I actually did a test (it was before I built the house, so I still had a lot to learn), I placed fiberglass strip between all the boards along one of the long walls, and paper strip on all seams along the other long wall and then painted. Results? - well, after a year, all the seams with fiberglass strip had a thin crack from floor to ceiling, and none of the seams with paper strip had cracked. So then it became clear to use paper strip throughout the house.

 

[Mikael_L]

Mounting paper tape can be done in various ways. I personally mount (glue) it with putty. I start by filling the gap between the boards with putty and spread a very thin layer across the entire bevel of the boards, about 1mm thin. Then, I place the tape directly in the middle of the joint while the putty is wet, not dried at all, and hold it in place with my thumb at the top. With a heavily angled putty knife, I press it firmly into the putty all the way down, much like sticking on a stamp or sealing an envelope, you press the tape by dragging the putty knife across. I then finish by tearing the tape with the putty knife as a tear edge at the bottom, pressing the tape firmly again at the top, where it was likely not done all the way the first time, then the same at the bottom, and then inspect the result and fix where needed. This putty is then allowed to dry, so the next day you fill the entire recess with putty and smooth it evenly with a putty knife. This is then allowed to dry for a couple of days, after which you can putty again, because when it dried, the putty sunk, and you need to refill (preferably with a light sanding beforehand in case there are any putty peaks), and then, if it is to be painted and invisible in raking light, this process is repeated a few more times.

This is where there's a difference between the pros and me (I've seen them work on the sites, so I know) the painters have some godlike touch, so they manage to fill the recess with a tiny little mound, so when it has dried and settled, there is no indentation, just a little bit to sand off, so they never putty more than 2 times.

 

[Mikael_L]

Many people struggle with applying the paper strip directly into the joint compound (including my better half, no matter how much I showed and explained and we tried over and over again, it just wouldn't work until she got so frustrated that she insisted I do it myself).
There is an alternative method, which involves buying an additional product and adds an extra day to the drying time.
You start by applying joint compound to the gap between the panels and the screw holes, but you scrape the compound across the entire recess = no layer of compound in the recess.
Let it dry for a day.
Then you glue the paper strip with wallcovering adhesive (the kind used to glue different types of wallpaper and wallpaper-like materials in wet rooms) over the panel joint.
Why this adhesive? Well, so that the strip doesn't come loose when it's covered with joint compound later, due to all the moisture it will be exposed to then.
Then let this strip dry for a day.
After that, it's just a matter of applying joint compound to the recess between the panels again.

 

[Mikael_L]

The back of the wardrobe is one of those super thin panels that would break immediately if I applied a little pressure. There is a small gap at the top because there is nothing to nail into in the upper part (since the upper part of the ceiling is sawed out to fit under the sloped roof). So air should still come into the space. Hope that's enough!

I think different topics have been discussed and mixed up here.
In the post you quoted, he writes "walk-in closet," meaning a separate, but small room. There it might be reasonable to start thinking about ventilation.
But for regular wardrobes, 60x60cm or 60x80cm, you never arrange any ventilation.
It's enough that the door doesn't actually close hermetically.

 

[Mjärn]

You fill the chamfering of the plasterboard edge with filler, the tape is used as reinforcement.

Plasterboards are a bit funny, they are quite strong but actually weak, made approximately of icing, sort of. It is the paper on either side of the gypsum that transforms the weak gypsum into a fairly strong and durable board. Remove the paper, and it will break just by staring at it hard. (This makes it so that, for example, there are some things to consider when screwing it up, such as the paper not tearing around the screw head, which is why the head on a plasterboard screw is designed in a special way, where you can drive the head down about 1mm below the paper surface without the paper breaking around the screw (it's a good tip for beginners to practice a bit on a scrap piece of gypsum and rule, to get the feel for how hard/deep you can pull), if the paper tears around the screw head it's just a matter of driving a new screw nearby, being careful that it's done well there).

The paper tape does basically the same thing for the joint between the plasterboards; it reinforces and strengthens the otherwise rather weak filler. Without the tape, the filler cracks at the slightest movement.

You have a picture of fiberglass tape there, it is definitely a worse choice than paper tape, as it does not provide the same resistance to movement between the boards. When I built the garage, I actually did a test (it was before I built the house, so I still had much to learn), I placed fiberglass tape between all boards along one of the long walls, and paper tape on all joints along the other long wall and then painted. Result? - yes, after a year all the joints with fiberglass tape had a thin crack from floor to ceiling, and no joint with paper tape had cracked. So then it became obvious to use paper tape in the whole house.

Good to know! I will keep that in mind for next time! 😃

 

[tommib]

So what I should have done is cut off 10 cm of the edge to get a completely straight side? Aren't there any drywall boards that don't have that bevel? I wanted the straightest part against the wardrobe for it to look the best but had no idea this bevel existed along... But now I know for next time!

Yes, almost. You cut the board so you get a straight, unchamfered edge against the wardrobe, but you also want the bevel against the next board above the wardrobes. That's why you cut the board in an L shape. Google "drywall wall around door" and something good will surely come up.

 

[Mjärn]

There is light in the wardrobe now too 😄

 

[Derbyboy]

Have you never been a beginner at some point? What is the purpose of the comment?

Absolutely, all the time.

You described it as if the rule was shining through. It has nothing to do with whether one is a beginner or not...

 

[Mjärn]

Absolutely, all the time.

You described it as if the rule was shining through. It has nothing to do with whether you're a beginner or not….

Do you often go in and call people stupid in many threads, or is it just in mine?

 

[Violina]

Do you usually go in and belittle in many threads or is it just in mine?

He himself usually acts quite stupid, so it probably feels good to put others down (I guess)