Help! The wall plate is loose, will the roof collapse???

[Tinker_cat]

I think the tone has been quite harsh. Almost as if Ts was being made out to be an idiot. It's completely unnecessary and I'm not so sure others have really done differently. I myself wouldn't have thought the wood paneling was load-bearing... Many have offered support and advice on how to resolve the issue. That's the part of building a house I like... I'm wondering if the wall gained a load-bearing function when part of the wall crumbled. But I'm also just making an educated guess. However, we can conclude that you shouldn't set an end date or deadline. I believe the house will be better built when you're done. Just don't use any construction plastic. It doesn't suit old houses, and if it doesn't become airtight...

Do you think once bitten, twice shy? Nope, that's not how it is. You'll be starting new projects soon. You've learned a lot of new things.

Old houses aren't a panic. Old houses just take a little more time! And many fun surprises

Oh yes, fun surprises I have tried to focus on the support, and I think it's been quite concrete and helpful.

Hah, yes, you can't be a time optimist when building. I hope someone else benefits from what I've shared so they don't have to experience the same thing.

No construction plastic

 

[Bananskalare]

This is why people love old pranks oops houses

 

[Tinker_cat]

Strange construction. The panel seems to support about 180cm of the roof. Can't you insert studs like this?
[image]

But it looks strange that there is no support, so the facade can be pushed inward.

Exactly! Everyone seems to agree on that anyway, strange construction.

It will be something like that, but the wall (studs) also needs to be reinforced to take the load. Tomorrow, all the lumberyards will be open again, so we can get the additional materials needed to fix it.

 

[Tinker_cat]

One learns from making mistakes. As mentioned, no one could have foreseen this. And SOMETHING had to be done anyway. No, see it as a learning experience, something you do to climb one step up the knowledge ladder. Or as I usually encourage my youngest son when he gets stuck with his schoolwork:
We do not do these things because they’re easy,
but because they’re HARD.
—John F. Kennedy

Thanks, and you're right. But right now the anxiety is stronger than reason, but it will probably sink in soon. Gray hair is part of wisdom, got both at the same time

 

[Bananskalare]

Has the house collapsed yet? Or has it shed all its paneling and is making a long face?
Then you don't need to worry!
Houses love to play small pranks but not to the point they collapse themselves.

You shouldn't invite Ågren over!
Everything will work out. The worst that can happen is that it takes a little more time and costs more money! But it can be fixed. Remember one thing—when the paneling is up, you can be pleased with yourself.
You're almost there!
What a journey!

 

[Bananskalare]

Thank you, and you are right. But right now, the anxiety is stronger than the reasoning, but it will probably sink in soon. Gray hairs are part of wisdom, I got both at the same time

I only got gray hairs

 

[Tinker_cat]

Has the house collapsed yet? Or has it shed all its siding and is sticking its tongue out?
Then you don't need to worry!
Houses love to play little tricks but never to the point of falling apart themselves.

Don't invite anxiety over!
Everything will work out. The worst that can happen is that it takes a little longer and costs more money! But it can be fixed, remember one thing when the siding is up! Then you can be proud of yourself.
You're almost there!
What a journey!

So far it's standing, but I'm getting more nervous every hour and every time I hear a strange noise Tomorrow, at least, the lumber yard is open again, so I can get some more studs. Then I have to keep my cool until Tuesday when a nice relative who is a builder will come over, probably to sigh loudly at my little experiment. We've agreed not to touch anything until then so I don't put a stud where he doesn't want it and it has to be thrown away unnecessarily.

I try to remember that it's just more time and money. Worst case, even a blank slate, and I can improve the floor plan

 

[ricebridge]

Anything is possible for those who believe.
The impossible just takes a bit longer.
We have all been there — new and inexperienced, faced with unexpected surprises.
One grows with the task.

 

[Blackfield]

Well, then I've learned something new. I didn't know there were houses where the facade forms a load-bearing part. I've always thought they built sturdier and over-engineered, etc., but this doesn't really seem like a great construction solution, but maybe there's a merit I'm missing. But if you want to replace the panel on such a house without it settling, should you then replace one plank at a time? Sounds like it would be really tricky with tar paper and such.

 

[kabelkaparen]

We do not do these things because they’re easy,
but because they’re HARD.
—John F. Kennedy

A version of the quote I usually prefer and which is more correct in this case is
"We do not do these things because they are easy, but because we THOUGHT they would be easy"
-Unknown

 

[Stubai]

From what I can understand from the truss drawing, the panel supports the rafter tails. It's incredibly poor not to brace the tail with a piece of timber. But as it looks, it should be entirely possible to cut out the insulation board that is there now and brace each rafter tail. If you measure out towards the gable, that measurement should be the length needed for the blocks. Then you'll probably need to lift a bit to get the blocks in the middle of the span.

 

[AndersS]

If you have a house from the 50s-60s that was factory-produced, like Standardhus/Hultsfredshus, you should be cautious because they were constructed with designs where the entire wall became load-bearing, for example, their fiberboard walls. Here, you can't just change the wall by installing larger windows, replacing a window with a door, new window, etc., without needing to rebuild and reinforce. (This also applies to stud walls, but they usually have a fundamental construction that can handle the roof load.) If I remember correctly, it was such a house that ts has from the 50s.

 

[Tinker_cat]

Well, then I've learned something new. I didn't know there were houses where the facade formed a load-bearing part. I've always thought people built sturdier and oversized, etc. But this doesn't seem like a great construction solution really, but maybe there's some merit that I'm missing. But if you want to change the panel on such a house without it settling, should you replace one plank at a time? Sounds like it would be very cumbersome with the paper and such.

Yeah, it was probably new for many.
There was someone else in the thread who described how they did it, taking a section/module in the roof and replacing it with loose studs. Eventually, you have a newly studded side that can be insulated and covered with paper/fabric as usual.
If you take one plank at a time, you're in the same situation the next time the panel needs to be replaced again. In the long run, it's probably better to replace the panel with another load-bearing structure.

In our case, we will create a proper wall plate and relieve downwards under each rafter, and then reinforce the entire wall with new studs at 60 cm centers.

 

[AndersS]

An acquaintance with a similar house replaced a large window section and changed the format/size. There, they did the work by framing a new wall. First, they used a prop, tore down the wall, and framed a new wall. But if you don't change anything with your windows, it will "surely" be enough to frame with 45*70 mm where you can make a proper attachment to the existing sill for the external framing.

 

[Tinker_cat]

An acquaintance with a similar house replaced a large window section and changed the format/size. They did the work by framing up a new wall. First, they put up a prop, tore down the wall, and framed a new wall. But if you are not changing anything with your windows, it should be "enough" to frame with 45*70 mm where you need to make a proper attachment in the existing sill for the externally applied framing.

Previous owners replaced the windows with larger ones, they are wider than the original windows (which unfortunately are discarded). I don't know exactly how they did it, there's foam sealant everywhere so it's hard to see. We were planning on reverting to the original dimensions, which means reducing the width by about 10cm.

We will put 70 framing in each compartment, and then add an additional 70 externally for the extra insulation that will be attached to the existing frames/modules. All with a 60 cm center distance. According to a structural engineer I consulted, this should suffice to support what we are doing with the roof: vertical framing under each eave and reinforcement horizontally at the top in the modules. This should be enough to take the load of the roof from the panel, so the panel is no longer load-bearing.