falkn said:
You don't need 90-degree corners to lay herringbone.
No, but it helps and looks best if the border is a nice symmetrical frame of the herringbone pattern.

If the border is 20 or 21 cm it won't be noticeable, but if the herringbone pattern inside the border is different in, for example, the right and left corners, it stands out.

If the border doesn't have straight sides, it becomes more complicated to align the border nicely.

The border and the field can be laid in different ways. Some inspiration http://www.stombergs.se/downloads/produktblad/monsterguide_massiv%20kortstav.pdf

TS, start from the centerline of the room when you draw the rectangle where the herringbone pattern should be laid.
 
A room under renovation with a laser level on the floor, wooden planks, tools, and wallpaper on the walls.

A room under renovation with a laser level setup on walls, piles of wooden planks on the floor, and a vacuum cleaner.

Now there's no turning back😖

I've now marked the middle of each wall, then measured 2cm from that, and set up the laser... Going to glue and nail the first board now... So I can move quickly tomorrow, hope I've thought it through correctly and it will turn out well.
 
Have you laid it out to see how the connection will be against the fris? So you don't end up with a scrap piece along the entire room.
 
No, I haven't done that, I didn't get further than one leg :( then the dykert started to act up :(
 
Floor with wooden planks laid out, pink guideline and markings visible, rough placement for a renovation project, uneven fit noted.

That's how it is, did a quick layout to see how it turned out, not 100% accurate but now you can at least see.
 
It looks good!

What nails are you using? I assume you're using an air compressor or battery-powered nail gun. I usually use 1.2x40 mm nails.
 
falkn said:
It looks good!

What type of brads are you using? I assume you're using an air compressor or a battery-powered nail gun. I usually go with 1.2x40 mm brads.
Using 1.2x30mm, using gas,
 
falkn said:
It looks good!

What nails are you using? I assume you're using an air or battery-powered nail gun. I usually use 1.2x40 mm nails.

have now placed, the first row, and one row, have glued and nailed what is laid, but I am thinking a bit about if one can skip the gluing now? or should one continue,

it's so damn tricky and annoying, so I think it's a thousand times easier to just nail, now the first row is in place so I can't move them, so now it has to be as it is...
regards
 
I only use nails, glue only where it's impossible to nail, but you should probably use longer brads then. 30 mm is a bit on the short side.
 
falkn said:
I only nail, glue only where it is not possible to nail, but you should probably use longer brads then. 30 mm is a bit on the short side.
Will go buy 40mm tomorrow, and use that instead... Nice to avoid gluing, it's quite tedious, and takes much longer.
 
Will have to buy a big bucket of filler later... Something is wrong, and the first plow is glued... I don't know how it can be wrong, since the first panel in the plow was laid 1 day earlier, with glue. So it couldn't have moved... Lots of filler and a large rug and you solve it:( but now I've tried, and know that I can't handle that. Regular click is probably better for me.
 
What has gone wrong?
 
arneri68 said:
What went wrong?

Close-up of wooden floorboards with a visible gap, highlighting alignment issues. A finger points to the gap, indicating measurement inaccuracies.


There you see, it's the first plogen, it seems that the staven is not 100%, so when I insert that staven, a few millimeters are missing, which follows along the whole way then :( I tried to trick it away with, for example, 4 stavar to adjust them, so they all have small gaps until it gets in sync... But it didn't go so well. Because there is always another row coming then :(

That the first plogen, in my case, that staven is a bit too long, which makes it so that I can't fit them together completely,
 
There isn’t much room for carelessness. Maybe you should have skipped the adhesive? With nails or screws, there is a little room for adjustment even though the rods are in place. If you just get the first groove right, the others are much easier.
 
Who did you buy the rods from? There may of course be some variation in length. I sometimes had to replace a rod if it was longer than another (usually that's what causes problems). Specifically, when laying the first plow, you can't skip such gaps without it having consequences. How much do you think needs to be replaced?

One option is to take the plunge saw and cut the rod lengthwise so they build equally. Then mill a new groove with the hand router. I also did that sometimes when it went off track due to uneven ground.
 
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