Now things have happened. 
I agree that a sheet under the house's roof edge next door is good against wear and tear.
Personally, I think skirts on a wooden deck are ugly, and the bigger the skirts, the uglier and more cumbersome they look. Seeing neat angled supports/rafters is much nicer. The gable at the bottom looks neat and good. Something similar for the wooden deck might work well, but it's a bit hard to judge. I think you'll have to build and see/feel it as you go.
If, for example, birds, contrary to expectations, would mess underneath, it's possible to put up wind netting between the supports afterward, a bit inside (maybe 1-3 dm). (Farmers use wind netting in, for example, open barns.)
Horizontal or vertical fencing... I believe in vertical. Partly because it's a classic that always works, and especially for older houses, and partly to reduce the impression of a massive wide gable.
Speaking of the gable, i.e., the side with the doors, entire wedge-shaped supports can look bulky, but again it's hard to assess before seeing the result (for me, at least).
I agree that a sheet under the house's roof edge next door is good against wear and tear.
Personally, I think skirts on a wooden deck are ugly, and the bigger the skirts, the uglier and more cumbersome they look. Seeing neat angled supports/rafters is much nicer. The gable at the bottom looks neat and good. Something similar for the wooden deck might work well, but it's a bit hard to judge. I think you'll have to build and see/feel it as you go.
If, for example, birds, contrary to expectations, would mess underneath, it's possible to put up wind netting between the supports afterward, a bit inside (maybe 1-3 dm). (Farmers use wind netting in, for example, open barns.)
Horizontal or vertical fencing... I believe in vertical. Partly because it's a classic that always works, and especially for older houses, and partly to reduce the impression of a massive wide gable.
Speaking of the gable, i.e., the side with the doors, entire wedge-shaped supports can look bulky, but again it's hard to assess before seeing the result (for me, at least).
Planning to construct the fence with 95x95mm posts, then 45x70 2pcs rails inside between the posts and possibly a top rail.
Then vertical pickets, the question is would you make these from 22x95 decking timber or 22x95 pressure-treated cladding board?
What spacing usually looks good between the pickets?
Then vertical pickets, the question is would you make these from 22x95 decking timber or 22x95 pressure-treated cladding board?
What spacing usually looks good between the pickets?
I assume the cladding is sawn on one side and planed on the other? If it has grooves/notches milled on the "backside," it's definitely out.Novisfixaren said:
So it depends on the intended surface treatment. Pressure-treated decking timber can be painted with most types except linseed oil paint.
I think that 30-35 mm is a suitable distance between the slats with a width of 95 mm.
Originally didn't plan on any surface treatment.
Do you think pressure-treated fence won't look good?
Would you make the pickets out of 22x95 decking lumber or 22x95 pressure-treated cladding board?
Cladding board has a rougher surface and decking is smooth..
Do you think pressure-treated fence won't look good?
Would you make the pickets out of 22x95 decking lumber or 22x95 pressure-treated cladding board?
Cladding board has a rougher surface and decking is smooth..
It's a matter of taste with appearance/surface treatment. It's easiest with only pressure-treated - no painting and no maintenance. If you change your mind, you can paint/treat the surface afterwards. With pressure-treated wood, it's still an advantage if it dries out thoroughly 1 - 2 seasons before painting.Novisfixaren said:
Between these two options, I would choose pressure-treated decking timber 22x95.
Ok.
How do I most easily deal with the ventilation of the storage unit?
I'm thinking of a few 110 plastic pipes with grilles on the outside but how many and where would you place these?
The storage unit is about 90 sqm.
How do I most easily deal with the ventilation of the storage unit?
I'm thinking of a few 110 plastic pipes with grilles on the outside but how many and where would you place these?
The storage unit is about 90 sqm.
Consider larch wood for a fence above ground, maintenance-free and beautiful, otherwise, you can use regular oil-treated wood because it's in contact with the ground that the damage occurs, writes someone who wants a non-toxic construction.
The dimensioning of the ventilation depends on what you will store in this large storage. Tractors, firewood, tools, furniture, and how often you will move things in and out, whether you will keep it heated all year, partially, or not at all.
Since it is a larger model storage, the ventilation will also be larger, both up towards the ceiling and down by the floor.
The dimensioning of the ventilation depends on what you will store in this large storage. Tractors, firewood, tools, furniture, and how often you will move things in and out, whether you will keep it heated all year, partially, or not at all.
Since it is a larger model storage, the ventilation will also be larger, both up towards the ceiling and down by the floor.
It will never be heated, and there can be wood and outdoor furniture, lawnmower, etc.
Is there any simple suggestion?
Is there any simple suggestion?
Just think about getting the air to move and preventing birds, insects, and pests from accessing your belongings.
As I understand it, you only have open walls in two directions, so a vent upwards in the inner corner might be a good idea.
As I understand it, you only have open walls in two directions, so a vent upwards in the inner corner might be a good idea.
What do you mean by upward in the inner corner?
Got the impression that it is fairly windy?
In that case, 2-4 vents will probably suffice. You can start there and adjust to find the right amount of ventilation.
I don't quite remember, but if you have a concrete slab with drainage and a capillary-breaking layer, no significant moisture will make its way up from the floor, so you won't need much ventilation.
As a wood storage, it can have as much ventilation as possible. In other words, if wood needs to dry further there, you should aim for a lot of ventilation (considerably more than 2-4 vents).
In that case, 2-4 vents will probably suffice. You can start there and adjust to find the right amount of ventilation.
I don't quite remember, but if you have a concrete slab with drainage and a capillary-breaking layer, no significant moisture will make its way up from the floor, so you won't need much ventilation.
As a wood storage, it can have as much ventilation as possible. In other words, if wood needs to dry further there, you should aim for a lot of ventilation (considerably more than 2-4 vents).
Somewhat urgent question regarding the vertical slats on the terrace fence.
I plan to inset the beams between the posts but let the slats extend outside the posts.
Do I start with a slat in the middle of the entire fence and then have varying distances in the outer corners on the right and left sides of the terrace, or is it better to split the last slat on the right and left sides?
Measuring so that the slats are exactly evenly spaced on the right and left sides with the same distance seems difficult?
Grateful for an answer, planning to start tomorrow
I plan to inset the beams between the posts but let the slats extend outside the posts.
Do I start with a slat in the middle of the entire fence and then have varying distances in the outer corners on the right and left sides of the terrace, or is it better to split the last slat on the right and left sides?
Measuring so that the slats are exactly evenly spaced on the right and left sides with the same distance seems difficult?
Grateful for an answer, planning to start tomorrow
Now it's a taste advisory question. See image.
Of course, the railing should continue down along the stairs.
The stairs are long and need support in the middle of the post.
Option 1:
Let all the railing posts of the stairs go down into a foundation in the ground.
Option 2: Let one middle post on each side of the stairs go down into the ground, the rest end like the terrace railing at the lower edge of the railing.
Option 3: All railing posts on the stairs only go to the edge of the stringers. Then I'll install a post in a foundation centered under the stairs as support.
Very grateful for opinions!
You've been working well, I see, and it looks nice. I consider option 2 to be the best looking regarding the staircase, and you'll see it yourself over time. Option 3 is acceptable, but definitely not number 1. Now, regarding the fence: If you insert the beams between the posts, I think it looks best to place the slats outside the posts; otherwise, it looks odd since the slats will partially cover the posts or sometimes not at all. Do the following: Place slats over the posts and at the edges. Place slats in the middle of the subsections. Place slats in the middle of the new subsections. If necessary, repeat the procedure. Now you have fairly small distances to place the rest of the slats, which is easy to divide into nice, even spaces. It doesn't matter much if the gaps differ by a few millimeters. A fun detail in the picture is that the man is fastening his fly, probably "powdering his nose," I laugh, wondering when the opening party will take place.