PS, you might need to put some 45x45 kortlingar between the horizontal 95x45s at the edges for stabilization.
 
Insulate on the inside of the wall above ground. With your current sketch, you will be placing almost the entire weight of the house outside the foundation wall, which will not hold.
 
leby said:
not really good the second one either but probably still holds.
Matti_75 said:
With your current sketch, you're going to place almost the entire weight of the house outside the foundation wall, which will not hold.
What is going to give in / not hold at the short sides?
 
leby said:
How much insulation were you planning? Nowadays, the building standard is 195x45 for standing and 45x45 for lying, I believe.
Since you're going heavy with insulation in the basement part, maybe you intend the same for the wooden construction?
I was thinking of building a layered wall according to the wood guide (http://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktiv-utformning/stomme/vaggar/yttervaggar/)

Construction guide table and diagrams of insulated cavity wall with timber framework, depicting inner and outer skeletal structure and insulation layers.

If you place the 45mm on the outside and make the inner wall load-bearing, the entire load-bearing wall ends up directly above the foundation wall. Then we've solved the problem, right? (Compared to previous pictures, I've shortened the floor beams by 45 mm, so now the overhang is reduced to about 15 cm. With the standing 45mm, the panel ends up in the same place as before.)

Illustration of a wooden frame wall structure built above a brick foundation, showing reduced floor joist overhang and alignment with the foundation.
 
Last edited:
Now I believe more that it will hold, nothing I have seen before but now at least the wall holds. Can you imagine taking a 145x45 as a load-bearing and sacrificing 45 internally, then you probably have a wall that should bear the loads. A bit risky not to go with a proven construction but if you're a bit of a gambler ;-)
 
Are you going to have horizontal or vertical paneling?
 
Now I understand how you envisioned it. This will work, but the 45x45 you planned to attach the facade to is too weak without any supports in the middle.
 
leby said:
Are you going to have horizontal or vertical paneling?
Traditional red vertical paneling with cover strip. So outside the 45s in my sketch will be exterior gypsum and a nail strip before the paneling.
 
Matti_75 said:
Now I understand what you envisioned. This will work but the 45x45 you plan to attach the facade to is too flimsy without some support in the middle.
Yes, I also think the 45s feel a bit flimsy. What kind of support are you thinking of?
 
Place the load-bearing beams on the short ends of the house (on top of the wall, of course) so that they extend out a reasonable amount. You can then either hang the floor joists with joist hangers on the load-bearing beam or place the joists on top of the load-bearing beam.
 
I don't really understand. How do I attach the bärlinor? Could you draw a sketch, or explain a little more?
 
Screw 6mm wood screw c/c 800 mm into the load-bearing frame with some kind of spacer in between.
 
I see that Biltema has 50 pcs of 6x240 mm wood screws for 129 kr. http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Fastelement/Skruv-och-Bult/El-och-Blankforsinkat/Traskruv-2000018829/ It says they are for indoor use. Will that suffice? They won't be exposed to weather since they will be behind the exterior cladding.

But I'd prefer to avoid those screws. It makes it much more complicated to fit the insulation :( How much do I need to increase the dimensions to avoid the screws? Is 45x70 enough, or do I need to go up to 45x95?
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.