I icho said:
Here is the board I was thinking of. I have personally tested screwing into it and can confirm that it holds well!
[link]
Looks really good. The question is whether a compact board is that much better than a wooden frame. But undeniably, this is a product that would solve the problem.
 
G Pergel said:
Looks really good. The question is whether a compact disc is much better than a frame in wood. But undeniably, this is a product that would solve the problem.
Lambda at 0.059 compared to wood at 0.14 or regular mineral wool 0.036. So it's a bit worse than regular mineral wool, but better than wood!
 
I icho said:
Lambda at 0.059 compared to wood at 0.14 or regular mineral wool 0.036. So it's slightly worse than regular mineral wool, but better than wood!
That's the theoretical advantage but in practice it's quite a small area. I think I'll go for splitting the stud anyway.
 
G Pergel said:
That's the theoretical advantage, but in practice, it's quite a small area. I think I'll opt for splitting the stud anyway.
I would have done that too if I weren't aiming for a passive house. ;)
 
É
If you are going to add extra studs on the outside to attach the window to, what should the facade board attach to? Nothing at all right at the window?

Perhaps it is enough to add to the vertical studs, and then not extend the horizontal ones, so you can at least attach the facade boards above and below the window to the existing studs?

In my case, it's a new build, but the principle is probably the same.
 
Rickard.
É ÉlPon said:
If you are going to extend with extra studs outside to attach the window, what will the façade panel attach to? Nothing at all right by the window?

Maybe it's enough to extend the vertical studs, then don't extend the horizontal ones, so at least the façade panels can be attached above and below the window to the existing studs?

In my case, it's new construction but the principle is probably the same.
The idea is that you shouldn't do that to break the thermal bridge; you simply shouldn't have wood through the entire wall. If you don't want to mount the frame in line with the frame, there are fittings/brackets for that.
 
  • Cross-sections illustrating wall construction with fasteners and insulation in aerated concrete, including facade plugs and mounting brackets for windows and doors.
É
Yes, I have seen that piece. But I haven't found any manual or video on how they should be used, or any experiences from someone who has them. Seems a bit fiddly for someone who has never installed windows even in the usual way?

I've only read tips about adding an extra regel. And if you're going to do that, I wonder if my thinking is correct?
 
richardtenggren
We first considered hanging the windows with brackets mentioned earlier in the thread, but instead, we framed a frame on the structure in which we mounted the windows. We have tongue-and-groove paneling, so the idea that water would seep in felt far-fetched.
Two rectangular windows mounted on a house wall with wooden frames, reflecting trees and sky at sunset, against building paper with brand logos.
 
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É
richardtenggren richardtenggren said:
We first considered hanging the windows with brackets as mentioned earlier in the thread, but instead, we framed a frame on the structure to mount the windows. We have tongue and groove paneling, so the risk of water ingress seemed unlikely.
[image]
How did you attach the edges of the facade boards along the window? What is the benefit of the frame at the top/bottom? Isn't it just the sides you screw the window into?
 
richardtenggren
É ÉlPon said:
How did you attach the edges of the façade panels along the window? What is the benefit of the frame at the top/bottom? Isn't it just the sides you screw the window into?
The panels are quite rigid, it's enough to mount them against and attach them to the frame like everywhere else. You can build as you wish, but I want to use all the attachment points on the window and have the opportunity to insulate all around. However, if you have narrow windows, you might skip these, but windows wider than ~12 have frame holes even in the middle. These windows are 20 wide.
 
É
richardtenggren richardtenggren said:
The boards are quite solid, it's enough to mount them against and attach them to the framing like everywhere else. You can build as you wish, but I want to use all attachment points on the window and have the opportunity to insulate around it. But if you have narrow windows, you might be able to skip these, but windows wider than ~12 have frame holes even in the middle. These windows are 20 wide.
Okay, mine are mostly 110 and 140 wide, so it's better to set them around rather than complicating things. I have a 140cm existing one that doesn't have screws up/down, but I see now that I have on the larger ones.

What dimensions do you have for studs and facade board? I'm going with 50mm boards, but studs are usually 45mm, even though there are some places where 50mm is available. It might not matter if only 5mm is missing if I choose 45x45 for framing. You seem to have thicker ones.
 
richardtenggren
É ÉlPon said:
Okay, mine are 110 and 140 wide for the most part, so it's just as well to place around rather than complicate it. I have an existing 140cm that doesn't have screws top/bottom, but on the larger ones, I see now.

What dimensions do you have for studs and facade board? I'm planning on 50mm boards, but studs are usually 45mm, even though you can find 50mm in some places. Perhaps it doesn't matter if only 5mm are missing if I choose 45x45 for the studs. You seem to have thicker ones.
I have studded out 95 mm, the facade boards are 100 mm, so I placed a pallet washer of 5 mm between the nail battens:)
 
É
Ok same situation as me then. But was it necessary to move them out 5mm? Did you want to maximize the windows?
 
É
Oh, I see, for spikläkten, now I understand.
 
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