The analysis result clearly states that "asbestos- YES, amosite in black glue on carpet."
This company is very reputable, and therefore I assume that the amosite they found in the black glue is fibrous.
Since they clearly wrote YES, they found asbestos.

I should actually contact the first analysis company and ask why they did not find asbestos, since it turned out to be present in the material...

The carpet remnants with black glue containing amosite. Can I leave it where it is, openly, or should it be encapsulated, sanded away, or similar? I think I might create more "trouble" by sanding than by leaving it untouched, given that the amosite should be fairly bound in the glue. What do you think?
 
Haha, it should obviously say antofyllit in the comment above... :)
 
The remnants containing amosite in black adhesive. Can I leave it where it is, exposed, or should it be encapsulated, sanded away, or something similar? I think I might create more "trouble" by sanding than leaving it undisturbed, since the amosite should be relatively bound in the adhesive. What do you think?
Yes, it is bound in the adhesive and completely harmless until released during processing. So you should definitely not sand the floor. If you have wooden/fiberboard flooring, I recommend applying a coat of paint or another suitable covering over the adhesive before laying new flooring. Leave the adhesive beneath. There is then a 0.000% chance of fibers being released. Before installing new flooring, please attach a warning label or something similar on the underlying floor, to inform any future buyers of your house.
 
I will actually contact the first analysis company and ask why they didn't find asbestos, since it turned out to be present in the material...
Analysis companies usually use phase contrast microscopes, i.e., a person sits and looks at the analysis sample and searches for visible and identifiable asbestos fibers, so there is a source of human error. In other words, they simply miss seeing the fibers. (there are automated methods with expensive electron microscopes to get more reliable results, but it is very expensive and usually not used by analysis companies)
As another reply pointed out, the floor layer might have used svartlim with asbestos on part of the floor, and on another area used svartlim without asbestos.
 
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Thank you for the response!

A follow-up question:

The black glue with asbestos and minor carpet remnants are on an old wooden floor, planks. I intend to have this floor thoroughly vacuumed to remove any previously released fibers from when we unknowingly tore out old vinyl flooring that may have contained asbestos in the mat and/or glue.

As academia mentioned above, it might be unnecessary to attempt sanding away old glue residues, etc. This would, after all, release fibers, even though the remediation company should, of course, have the right type of vacuum, exhaust, etc. Perhaps instead, I should ask them to paint/prime the old wooden floors that may have black glue residues on the surface after proper vacuuming. That is, have them paint/prime the entire floor surfaces. I wonder:

Is it OK to paint over/prime this old plank floor? Or could it somehow become too impermeable and create moisture problems? I have an old house, built in 1893, with a crawl space foundation. I have stopped using the chimneys for heating, now I have geothermal heating. This in itself creates changes in the moisture conditions in the crawl space, etc.

I plan to lay a new solid wooden floor on top of the old wooden floor with black glue residues. Between the floors, there will be felt paper. The question is: can I ask the remediation company to paint/prime the old underlying wooden floor, or do I risk creating moisture problems when possible moisture from the crawl space cannot "flow freely" through the floors and is possibly prevented from passing through because of paint/primer?

Suggestions for a suitable primer/paint?

Or is it sufficient to leave the black glue as is, lay down the felt paper, and simply install the new wooden floor on top? Please take into account that I also intend to possibly install a dehumidifier in the crawl space, which will blow dry air into the crawl space. I am not exactly sure how this works, but it might possibly cause air from the foundation to enter the indoor environment via gaps in the floor, etc. Is it unsuitable to have this "blow" from underneath if I leave the black glue without overpainting under the new wooden floor? Even today, air naturally enters via the crawl space. But perhaps more so if a dehumidifier is installed. What do I know...
 
maybe unnecessary to attempt to sand off old glue residues etc. After all, fibers are released, even though the abatement company should indeed have the right type of vacuum cleaner, extraction, etc.
I didn't understand you were going to bring in an abatement company for the glue. But I wouldn't even recommend that abaters sand it off either. Simply because it's not necessary, and because that processing creates airborne asbestos that can remain in indoor air to some extent even after a well-done remediation. Not everything will be captured by negative pressure, extraction, and vacuum cleaners with particle filters.

Or is it enough to leave the black glue as it is, apply lumpapp, and simply lay the new wooden floor on top?
A covering surface with primer (that "breathes" moisture) if the black glue is dried out and powders, otherwise I think it's enough. But someone who knows wooden flooring should probably have their say first.
 
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