Realized that the router bit can slip in the chuck if it's not properly fixed. Was the chuck securely locked?snowjim said:The router didn't hold the depth and suddenly I was cutting into the kitchen tableNot very fun! Luckily, I noticed in time to adjust the final bit. It went about 30 cm into the table and before that, it had gradually gone down. I tried setting everything up again and tightening it as much as possible, but it still went down 1 mm in about 20 cm.
Yes, the machine felt solid but strangely enough, it barely managed the chipboard with a brand new cutter. It worked fine in some spots but in others, it was stuttering constantly regardless of the speed; I tried almost all speeds, and the slower it was set, the more it stuttered.arneri68 said:
Yes, I tightened the arm really well, thinking that this one must be tightly secured.arneri68 said:Did you push down the locking arm? It almost sounds like you ran it with the lock open, but if the router wasn't in proper condition, I won't blame you.
The arm for the depth stop, you mean? Not the lock that keeps the depth? The depth stop is hardly made to withstand high pressure for a long time, that's the lock's job. Milling is fun, but there is a lot to consider.
There is a large lever on the back, this allows you to adjust the depth, then there is a rod that ensures it can't go deeper than what you've set it to. Both were tightened as hard as possible, is there another stop you mean?Valkyr said:
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
If you've tightened these, it should not be able to sink. Then the metal must have slipped instead. If that's the case, you should be glad it was only the disc and the table that were damaged.snowjim said:
No, it's the lever that's meant, the rod can usually move if you put all the pressure on it without locking with the lever. Then maybe it was just an old and worn-out rental machine? A shame about the table in any case.
Last edited:
The bolts crept out once too, yes, I didn't understand this either when using a large fixed wrench to tighten it, I tightened it quite hard!?
Yes, it will be necessary to complain upon returning, I don't see how I could have done this better.
Yes, it will be necessary to complain upon returning, I don't see how I could have done this better.
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
It's probably like valkyr says, the stuff is worn.
I don't like renting stuff because they aren't treated carefully, so I don't see them as reliable.
It's enough to look at a rental movie; I've probably never rented a movie that DIDN'T look like it's been through a blender a few times.
If you need to route again, just buy one.
I bought a red meec from jula a couple of years ago, paid 300kr, has worked great.
I don't like renting stuff because they aren't treated carefully, so I don't see them as reliable.
It's enough to look at a rental movie; I've probably never rented a movie that DIDN'T look like it's been through a blender a few times.
If you need to route again, just buy one.
I bought a red meec from jula a couple of years ago, paid 300kr, has worked great.
I bought a Meec (not red) a few years ago when I needed a budget router but returned it quickly because the base plate wasn't orthogonal to the milling cutter. Then I bought a Cocraft on sale for 400, and it's a lot of value for the money!
Am I the only one wondering if TS routed in stages? 9mm MDF, which cover sides often are, doesn't seem like such a good idea...
Am I the only one wondering if TS routed in stages? 9mm MDF, which cover sides often are, doesn't seem like such a good idea...
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
I wouldn't have done the full depth with a 20mm cutter in one pass either.
There are no problems with milling large depths and high material removal with free ejection, but I wouldn't do it in the middle of a sheet.
There are no problems with milling large depths and high material removal with free ejection, but I wouldn't do it in the middle of a sheet.