Which router for straight grooves?

[Fjojtmehmet]

I guess you mean why not set the trim directly in the wall cabinets? Well, because the cover panel is 13 mm thick and the milling should go down about 9 mm, leaving only 4 mm of particle board to hold the bottom part. After a conversation with IKEA, they agreed it wasn't a good idea at all, especially considering that this groove should run through all the wall cabinets. Additionally, there are unsightly screws on the underside that you'd want to cover with the cover panel.

I think dof means what I replied a bit earlier
It's easier to saw a groove than to keep milling.
You can saw with a very large margin for error and the "lip" on the trim covers it anyway.
The depth doesn't matter if you go too deep since the trim will be screwed into the sides.

 

[dof]

Well, I don't really think we're understanding each other. I did something similar in a kitchen last spring where I just cut out the cover panel for the fixture, i.e., cut out the entire thickness of the cover panel. This was done on fully enclosed fixtures. Considering the molding you have, it should just be easier to make it good.

 

[snowjim]

Well, I don't really think we understand each other. I did something similar on a kitchen this spring where I just cut out the covering panel for the fixture, meaning I cut out the entire thickness of the covering panel. This was done on fully enclosed fixtures. Considering the strip you have, it should only be easier to get it right.

Aha, what you mean is that I should cut the covering panel straight through where the strip is going to sit and also cut away a piece as wide as the strip. Then first place the sawed cover piece inside and then place the smaller sawed cover panel outside with a gap that represents the strip. After this, you press the strip into place?

This means I would need to add one or two extra rows of screws from inside the cabinets down into the cover panel pieces. The inner piece must be fastened both at the back by the wall and at the front where the strip will sit. The smaller cover panel on the outside will be fastened at the outer end and into where the strip will go. So, a total of 4 rows of screws instead of 2-3.

 

[snowjim]

I think dof means what I answered a bit up It is easier to saw a groove than to keep routing. You can saw with a very large margin of error and the "lip" on the strip still covers it. The depth doesn’t matter either if you go too deep because the strip is supposed to be screwed into the sides.

Aha, yes, I have never routed anything, so I don't know how difficult it is.

This is how I'm imagining it

 

[dof]

Aha, what you mean is that I should cut through the cover panel where the strip will sit and then also cut away a piece as wide as the strip. Then first place the cut cover piece inside and then place the smaller cut cover panel outside with a gap representing the strip. Then after this, you press the strip in place?

This means that I would then need to add one or two extra rows of screws inside the cabinets down into the cover panel pieces. The innermost piece must be attached both at the back by the wall and then at the front where the strip will sit. The smaller cover panel on the outside will be attached at the outside and into where the strip should go. Then a total of 4 rows of screws instead of 2-3.

Exactly. I glued the cover panels I put there so only a few screws were in the panel.

 

[snowjim]

Exactly. The cover panels I glued on only had a few screws in the panel.

I understand, I didn't think along those lines, strangely enough, probably because I previously saw someone router in those strips on the bottom of the IKEA cabinets, so it felt natural to router here too.

I'll have to think about this a bit; of course, it would feel better just to router it since you only have a piece to handle, but if it's so hard to router straight despite a guide or straightedge, then maybe it's better to go with the saw anyway. I don't want to glue it, though; you never know if you might decide to replace the lighting, and then the cover panel might need to be replaced.

 

[snowjim]

We have decided to screw on the cover plates to easily replace the lighting solution in the future if needed.

The question now is, Cramo wants 200 kr for a steel for the router? Should we go with that or is it enough to buy something cheaper at Biltema, Jula, or similar?

 

[Norrhyttan]

Borrow a milling machine from a buddy then, it's the cheapest option. If you don't have a friend with a decent milling machine, change your circle of acquaintances.

 

[snowjim]

Picked up the router today, it's a larger blue Bosch model, seems to be this one:


http://www.proffsmagasinet.se/bosch-gof-900-ce-handoverfras

I've tried using the fence and it does cut through the cover plate easily and neatly, but it's also very easy for it not to go straight!? I suspect you need a sturdy table to secure the plate and where you can push quite hard against the fence, which is definitely an issue in my case.

Otherwise, I'm considering using the straight edge; wouldn't that be easier?

 

[Fjojtmehmet]

Picked up the router today, it's a larger blue Bosch, seems to be this one:

[bild]
[link]

I tried using it with the fence and it really cuts through the cover plate easily and neatly, but it's also very easy for it not to run straight!? I suspect you need a sturdy table to secure the plate and where you can push quite hard against the fence, which will clearly be a problem in my case.

Otherwise, I'm considering using the straightedge, shouldn't that be easier?

Use a template guide and a straightedge.

 

[snowjim]

Use with template sleeve and straightedge.

Looked into what a template sleeve is and it actually seems to come with something like that? How does it work?

So a straightedge is better than a stop?

 

[arneri68]

The template sleeve is meant to follow a pattern, but the milling cutter usually has a smaller diameter than the sleeve, meaning the template does not always have the same measurements as what is to be replicated.

I suggest the following:

1. Use a straightedge as a guide, provided it does not flex when you press against it.

2. Push the router in front of you. Make sure that the milling cutter pushes the router towards the guide, not away.

3. Do not remove more than 2-3 mm at a time in depth. Greater removal increases the risk of the router veering off and the groove not being straight.

Milling straight is not very easy if you have never used a router. Fortunately, particle boards are easier to mill than wood.
Read the router's user manual to understand how it is intended to be used so you can avoid beginner mistakes.

 

[snowjim]

The template sleeve is intended to follow a template, but the milling cutter usually has a smaller diameter than the sleeve, meaning the template doesn’t always have the same dimensions as what is to be depicted.

I suggest the following:

1. Use a straightedge as a stop, provided it doesn't flex when you press against it.

2. Push the router in front of you. Ensure the milling cutter pushes the router against the stop, not away.

3. Do not remove more than 2-3 mm at a time in depth. Larger removal increases the risk of the router darting off, and the groove won’t be straight.

Routing straight isn’t very easy if you've never used a router. Fortunately, chipboards are easier to route than wood.
Read the router's instruction manual so that you understand how it’s intended to be used, and you'll avoid beginner mistakes.

Ah, okay, then there's no point in using the template sleeve.

I was thinking of placing the board on a longer kitchen table (which is in the conservatory) and then setting the straightedge here. This should prevent the cover board from flexing (which happened when I used a circular saw on another table).

But how do you ensure that the milling cutter presses against the stop (straightedge) instead of the other way around?

Yes, I'll run a test board first and see if it's straight enough to fit the strip I need. The worst-case alternative would be to completely saw off the boards with a circular saw, but I don't want to do that because it would require using lots of extra screws.

 

[snowjim]

Now I've finished milling and can conclude that the mill is not my best friend either. Using a straight edge was definitely the right choice!

However, two problems arose:

1. The machine kept stalling, which caused the cut not to be straight, i.e., the machine jerked and stopped. I tried different speeds on the machine and moving it extremely slowly, nothing helped, so I had to live with it jerking a bit now and then. The mouldings I installed covered it nicely, though.

2. The mill didn't hold the depth and suddenly I found myself milling into the kitchen table Not very fun! Luckily, I noticed it in time to adjust the last part. It milled about 30 cm into the table and before that, it had gradually gone downwards. I tried setting everything again and tightening it as hard as possible, but it still went down 1 mm over 20 cm.

One usually doesn't read the manual, but in this case, it was a good suggestion! I did everything according to what it said, which felt good... until it went into the table, of course.

Now the mouldings are in place anyway! I just need to put up the covering boards too, which will be a job in itself, not a fun position to install them from underneath.

 

[arneri68]

Then I have finished milling and can state that the milling machine is not my best friend either. Used a straightedge, which was definitely the right choice!

However, there were 2 problems:

1. The machine kept slowing down, which caused the cut not to be straight, i.e., the machine jerked and stopped.

Sounds like the milling machine wasn't in the best condition. I have a GOF 900 for several years and it has never jammed. A chipboard should absolutely not be any problem.

The milling machine didn't hold the depth and suddenly I was cutting into the kitchen table Not very fun! Luckily, I noticed it in time so I could adjust the last bit.

Did you press down the locking arm? Sounds almost like you were milling with the lock open, but if the milling machine wasn't in acceptable condition, I won't point fingers at you.