12,711 views ·
55 replies
13k views
55 replies
Which router for straight grooves?
Page 1 of 4
Hi,
I am going to rout a Hide the lite profil thin into an IKEA cover panel:


There are 2 panels that need routing, one close to 2.40 and one at 60 cm.
Should one rent a finer router for this or should one buy a router? And what type of router is best for this job?
I am going to rout a Hide the lite profil thin into an IKEA cover panel:


There are 2 panels that need routing, one close to 2.40 and one at 60 cm.
Should one rent a finer router for this or should one buy a router? And what type of router is best for this job?
Aha, yes, the alternative was otherwise a router with a fence or guiding it along a straightedge. But I don't have anything else to router and have never really felt the need for a router. If I were to buy one it would probably cost at least 1500 SEK, and that's without a guide rail. Renting one is likely to be no more than a couple of hundred notes.Stefan N said:
I don't quite understand what you mean by the cutting depth can't be adjusted so that it can be tracked with it.
I have never tried exactly the saw you have, but on the ones I have used, the cutting depth can be set from zero.
I have never tried exactly the saw you have, but on the ones I have used, the cutting depth can be set from zero.
Checked the manual and it seems it can be adjusted. However, the question is how well it will work to use a circular saw here? It feels like quite a bit of extra work considering the straightedge has to be moved for each groove you want to make until you reach 20.4 mm.sblixten said:
Probably less extra work than it takes to go and rent a routersnowjim said:
Renovator
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It's easiest to first cut the outer dimensions, then 1 or 2 cuts in between.
The strips that are in between are broken away with a knife or chisel.
The strips that are in between are broken away with a knife or chisel.
Checked with Cramo and they would charge 170 SEK excluding VAT and insurance for the router itself, and then you buy the bits which cost 200 SEK excluding VAT. So in total, it would probably be around 500 SEK including everything to rent it for 1 day.
They don’t have routers that follow rails, but you use a guide they say.
If I were to buy one, it would probably be this Makita: https://www.toolab.se/product/RP0900K-Makita-Overhandsfras-8mm-900W but that’s still 1500 SEK plus bits.
Not a clear choice.
Maybe I can use the circular saw anyway. From experience, I know when cutting cover panels that it’s not 100% straight even with a guide rail mounted, i.e., you can feel unevenness in the wood even if it doesn’t show, maybe it matters less?
In this case, it’s a 2400 mm board and a 600 mm board as mentioned.
They don’t have routers that follow rails, but you use a guide they say.
If I were to buy one, it would probably be this Makita: https://www.toolab.se/product/RP0900K-Makita-Overhandsfras-8mm-900W but that’s still 1500 SEK plus bits.
Not a clear choice.
Maybe I can use the circular saw anyway. From experience, I know when cutting cover panels that it’s not 100% straight even with a guide rail mounted, i.e., you can feel unevenness in the wood even if it doesn’t show, maybe it matters less?
In this case, it’s a 2400 mm board and a 600 mm board as mentioned.
The cover panel from IKEA is 13 mm thick and the width of the strip, as you can see in my top post, is 20.4 mm. I assume 20 mm works well with a little force.
I'm not entirely sure about the outlet, but maybe you mean how far from the edge? The base cabinets are 60 wide and the base cabinets are 38.6 cm. I guess you want the strip about 8-9 cm in, which would place it right over the countertop.
I'm not entirely sure about the outlet, but maybe you mean how far from the edge? The base cabinets are 60 wide and the base cabinets are 38.6 cm. I guess you want the strip about 8-9 cm in, which would place it right over the countertop.
I assume you mean why not place the strip directly in the wall cabinets? Well, because the cover panel is 13 mm thick and the routing should be down about 9 mm, leaving 4 mm of particle board to support the bottom part. After a call with IKEA, they agreed that it wasn't a good idea at all, especially considering that this slot would go through all the wall cabinets. Furthermore, there are unsightly screws on the underside that one would prefer to cover with the cover panel.dof said:
