hempularen said:
You build on the frames. If it is 6mm, I have no experience. It may even be possible to address the level difference with the casing. For 13mm gypsum, there are ready-made extension strips to install. Or you can cut your own if you have a suitable saw.
So, there we have extra work on 3 doorways and 1 window. Extending the frames by 13 sounds like a lot, if I put gypsum on top of what is already there, it will only be 6 mm max.
 
I use planed pine 8x21 which I glue and nail to the frames when I put up 6mm renovation plasterboard.

Yep, Byggmax light filler.
 
f91jsw said:
It is possible to patch seams without recessing in the same way as with recessing, but it is important to get a suitably thick layer of filler to place the tape in. It is a bit more difficult than with recessing as it requires some skill when applying the filler. If there is a lot to be spackled, it is worth learning since it saves a work step.
Oh wow, then I will try again :). I tried a few times recently but didn't succeed, and then I read on Gyproc's website (I think it was) that you glue the paper tape in those places.
 
I failed a couple of times at first because it's easy to apply the putty too thinly so the tape has nothing to adhere to. It takes a few mm of putty so the tape grips properly. I have just puttied the walls in our extension with an open ridge and, inconveniently, 255 cm high on the side walls. That is, short seams everywhere. Really tedious to putty... Not to mention all those damn outer corners with double plasterboard in the window niches. In hindsight, I should have hired a painter.
 
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mexitegel
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I used Bygg max findhand spackel last summer for the kitchen, and it wasn't great. I had to apply the spackel to the same areas at least 10 times before it became reasonably even. That is, the spackel shrinks terribly.

This time I have used a spackel from Knauf, and it's light years better! Much better consistency and it hardly shrinks at all. After the first layer, it almost didn't need any more application.
 
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