Which filler?

[snowjim]

It sounds like you don't think I should remove what's currently there today?

If it's to stay, my plan is to level it out anyway and then put strips over the cracks, primarily to provide the wallpaper with slightly better conditions. In some places, there can be a difference in level of several mm between two panels for some strange reason.

The problem is that if I let them stay, I'll need to do a lot of tracking in the walls, as electrical wiring needs to be run for countertop lighting, drawer lighting, drawer openers, fridge/freezer, oven, hob, general outlets, and of course switches for the lights. Unfortunately, not much is in the right place today.

I've previously been advised to put renovation drywall on the existing wall, but I will probably need to even out what's there today first since, as mentioned, there are level differences in some places. The advantage of this is that you can track as you like without really needing to fill it, and then just put drywall in front. The downside is that the room will become 12 mm smaller in length and width. It might not be an issue, but I know the distances are already marginal, but losing 6 mm on each side shouldn't make a difference.

If you install renovation drywall, as mentioned, it will add 6 mm, and this means you have to come up with a solution around windows and doors. I have no idea how this is usually resolved? Placing double moldings on top of each other feels a bit sloppy?

 

[snowjim]

Have tried many different fillers and don't think there's much of a difference. I use Byggmax light filler, 100 SEK/10 liters.

Why not just go with a layer of standard drywall? It will take care of the irregularities. You can probably get it OK with full-wall filling, but then you might need to reinforce with fiberglass fabric first. A lot of work.

Yes, I've read quite a bit about people who don't notice any difference between fillers, while some say that Byggmax requires more work? Some say there are small bubbles in Byggmax filler. Might be worth buying a little and trying it out?

When it comes to filling the walls, I was only planning to fill where there are cracks. As you say, there's not much you can do about cracks appearing again, as long as they don't show in the wallpaper at least.

 

[nino]

Buy byggmax and use grovspackla, and for example Beckers to do the final fine spackling.
Don't you have a place where you can try removing the boards? If there's råspont behind, a simple drywall should be enough then.

 

[snowjim]

The problem is that the boards seem to be fragile, so they'll likely break when you take them apart. I looked into plasterboard, and there are boards that are 1200mm wide, so those are probably what I need to buy and then cut/break them at 100. The first layer I put up is 6 mm, then I add another 6 mm layer on top of that and make sure not to align the seams to make it a bit more robust. The width of the outer plasterboard could be standard size.

If this is to be done, it's not worth tearing down the walls until the week the electricians arrive. We will also tear up a tile floor in connection with this, but I suspect that the walls should be installed before laying the floor. So we'll have to tear down the walls, have the electricians come and run their wiring, put up the plasterboards and finish. Then the floor is laid just before we start installing the kitchen furniture (cabinets), which in our case should not be placed on the floor (parquet).

 

[richardtenggren]

Why not use regular 13 mm gypsum? It's much cheaper than 2x6 mm, and you do like cheap stuff, right? Then everything should be much simpler, plastering, electrical installation, etc.

 

[anders07]

What I would do:

Option 1: Fill and level with plaster, then apply renovation plasterboard, putty, and paint.
Option 2: Fill the roughest areas with Husfix, then coarse filler, sand down, apply Microlit, and then paint.
Option 3: Tear down all the masonite, level the studs (if they are uneven), apply OSB and new plasterboard, putty, and paint.
Option 4 (not recommended): Fill large gaps with plaster, apply tape in all seams (glued with, for example, wet primer or waterproof wallpaper paste) and then apply a wide filler over the entire wall as well as possible.

Regarding filler, there's not much difference as long as you stay away from the cheapest ones. Personally, I don't like Beckers because I find it always has a lot of air bubbles in it...

 

[snowjim]

Why not use regular 13 mm drywall? It's much cheaper than 2x6 mm, and you do like it cheap Plus everything would be so much easier, plastering, electrical installation, etc.

Well, I don't mind if it costs a little, as long as it's done well. When I've seen others do drywall, they've used double layers and staggered the joints. They haven't plastered the first layer of drywall. But sure, I can use 13 mm drywall directly, but wouldn't the risk of cracks be greater then? I can see in the rest of the house that cracks have appeared here and there, even through the wallpaper, which I want to avoid if possible.

 

[snowjim]

What I would do:

Option 1: Fill and level with gypsum plaster, then cover with renovation plasterboard, spackle, and paint.
Option 2: Fill the roughest areas with house fix, then coarse putty, sand it down, apply microlit, and then paint.
Option 3: Tear out all the masonite, level the studs (if they are uneven), then with OSB and new plasterboard, spackle, and paint.
Option 4 (not recommended): Fill large gaps with gypsum plaster, apply tape in all seams (glued with, for example, wet primer or waterproof wallpaper paste) and then skim coat the entire walls as well as possible.

Regarding spackle, there is not much difference as long as you stay away from the very cheapest. I personally do not like Beckers as I find there are always an enormous amount of air bubbles in it...

Thank you, many choices, the question is what is most reasonable and best in this case. Covering walls with microlit I have heard of before, it is an alternative to installing double plasterboard with staggered seams.

 

[mexitegel]

The problem you have in front of you is the same one we have in our house, which is that the wall surfaces are made of wood. Wood moves, which means that cracks in the wallpaper will inevitably occur. A really robust and fiberglass-reinforced renovation wallpaper can help somewhat but is not a guarantee (I have tried). The original DURO's Easy Cover is the one to go for, and it is expensive. There are many similar products, but they are not fiberglass-reinforced and therefore do not provide the same strength. Because of the fiberglass, it's not particularly fun to work with either - it itches on your arms...

If I were you, I would trace electrical wiring, etc., into the existing wooden walls and then apply standard 13mm drywall. One layer is sufficient - just make sure there are studs to screw into - it can be hit or miss with that in houses from the 70s (I know from personal experience). Fill the recessed joints in the drywall with joint compound and insert paper tape, then smooth it out. Let it dry, sand lightly, and apply joint compound with a 40 cm taping knife.
If you find it difficult to embed the paper tape in the joint compound, you can use mesh adhesive instead, as shown below.

Avoid having a recessed drywall edge against an edge without a recess. For joints without recessed edges, bevel them with a drywall rasp. Then fill the joint and let it dry, and sand it down. Glue paper tape with mesh adhesive, let it dry, and then apply joint compound over the joint with a 40 cm taping knife.

As for joint compound, I've used the one from byggmax and don't notice any significant differences compared to Casco. The problem with byggmax is that they can change suppliers, and then you don't know how the compound is going to be. But when I last bought some, in April, it was the same as usual. If there are some bubbles in the compound, it's not the end of the world if you're going to wallpaper afterward - they won't show.

In areas where we have painted walls, we've used microlit or renovation wallpaper on top of the drywall. This means you don't have to be as meticulous with the joint compound, and you get a consistent surface - otherwise, it's easy to see a difference between surfaces that are just drywall versus areas that are filled.

 

[hempularen]

The only sensible thing is to track straight through those walls, and then apply gypsum, renovation, or regular gypsum. A single layer of gypsum is sufficient.

 

[f91jsw]

Well, I don't mind if it costs a bit, as long as it's done well. When I've seen others plaster, they've used double plasterboard and offset the seams. They haven't puttyed the first layer of plasterboards. But sure, I can put 13-plaster directly, but won't the risk of cracks be higher then? I can see in the rest of the house that cracks have appeared here and there, even going through the wallpaper, so I want to avoid it if possible.

It won't crack if you apply a layer of 13-plaster and properly putty the seams with paper tape. Cracking happens if you don't tape the seams, or in newly built houses that move a lot, primarily in corners and at wall/ceiling junctions.

 

[snowjim]

Thank you!! You seem to agree quite a bit on not removing the plates that are there but instead routing in them and then adding 6 mm or 13 mm gypsum. But if I build out the wall 6 mm, what do you do at doors and windows? I understand that you have to remove the moldings, but once you’ve added 6 mm gypsum, there’s as mentioned, 6 mm extra at the doors and windows, how do you cover this? Of course, I understand that the wide moldings are placed directly on the gypsum, but I mean the 6 mm that extend the frames. Is this really how you do it? Won’t it look strange?

 

[f91jsw]

Avoid having recessed plasterboard edges against edges without recesses. In joints without recessed edges, you should bevel them with a plasterboard file. Then fill the joint, let it dry, and sand it down. Glue up a paper tape with fabric glue, let it dry, and then fill over the joint with a 40-cm putty knife.

It's okay to fill joints without recess in the same way as with recess, but it's important to have a moderately thick layer of filler to set the tape in. It's a bit more difficult than with recess because it requires some skill when applying the filler. If there's a lot to fill, it's worth learning because it saves a work step.

 

[f91jsw]

As for filler, I have used Byggmax and haven't noticed any major differences compared to Casco. The problem with Byggmax is that they can change suppliers, and then you don't know how the filler will be. But when I last bought it, in April, it was just as usual. If there are a few bubbles in the filler, it's not the end of the world if you're going to wallpaper later - it won't be visible anyway.

I bought Byggmax filler just a week ago and used it yesterday, and experienced no problems with it.

 

[hempularen]

Thanks!! You all seem to agree not to remove the tiles that are there but instead to chase in them and then add 6 mm or 13 mm plasterboard. But if I add 6 mm to the wall, how do you handle doors and windows? I understand you have to remove the moldings, but once the 6 mm plasterboard is in place, there is, as mentioned, an extra 6 mm at the doors and windows, how do you cover this? Of course, I understand that you put the wide moldings directly on the plasterboard, but I mean the 6 mm that extends the frames. Is this really how it's done? Won't it look strange?

You extend the frames. I have no experience with 6mm. It might even be possible to take up the level difference with the casing. For 13mm plasterboard, there are ready-made extension strips to install. Or you can saw your own if you have a suitable saw.