Wheel nut broke off - what to do? (help!)

[D.Petersson]

can't you try to tap on a heavy-walled socket with torx inside that can grip the small part of the hexagonal section that is left? it usually works on other nuts, it depends on how much is left of the hexagonal part

 

[dj_fluffy]

Recommending the same as I wrote before. Drill through the wheel bolt./stud. Eventually, the broken socket will come off. Start with a small drill, then gradually increase to a larger model.

 

[Bykof]

Managed to misplace the locking socket for the wheel bolts last winter.
Masked around the hole with a stronger tape
Built up a small mound with the MIG welder to extend out from the hole, then welded on a 12 mm rebar and finished with a sturdy pipe wrench.

 

[Shibby]

Suggesting the same as I mentioned earlier. Drill out the wheel bolt. /the stud. Eventually, the broken socket will come off. Start with a small drill, then gradually increase to a larger size.

Hmm yeah but if you drill out the stud/bolt, you'll need a new one afterward. Not sure if they can be bought separately or if they're attached to the wheel hub itself and then it gets expensive!

 

[Fluxor]

Hmm yes, but if you drill through the stud/pin, you'll have to replace it with a new one. I don't know if they can be bought separately or if they are attached with the wheel hub itself, which would be expensive!

Splined, inserted from the inside outwards?

 

[dj_fluffy]

Hmm yes, but if you drill through the stud/pin, you'll need a new one afterward. Not sure if they can be bought separately or if they're attached to the wheel hub, which would make it expensive!

Just go to the nearest auto parts store and check before you start.
Mekonomen, carfix, speedy, vianor, etc.
99% chance that you just need to knock in a new stud once the old one is gone. Not something you should do yourself unless you know what you're doing. You should be able to get help with this at any tire shop.

 

[Stefan1972]

There is a lot of negativity about ABS wheels here, but one thing should be made clear. A dealer selling wheels and their accessories never guarantees 100% functionality or fit on any car. No one has ever conducted physical tests on all vehicles to ensure anything. The final bit is left to the buyer or the installer to make sure everything works and "fits." Their recommendations are based solely on physical factors: dimensions, bolt pattern, offset, thread, and type of cone in the rim. Their recommendations do not extend beyond these factors. When installing, you also need to check that it works. In the case of the original poster, it seems that the thread protrusion is too small, and this, combined with these bolts, caused them to break at the waist. It is, of course, unfortunate, and it might have worked with better bolts, but it's probably not fair to blame the supplier for this.

 

[Hammarskallen]

A lot of negativity about ABS wheels here but one thing should be clear. A dealer selling wheels and their accessories never guarantees 100% functionality or fitment on any car. No one has ever done physical tests on all vehicles to ensure anything. The final piece is left to the buyer or the installer to ensure everything works and "fits."
Their recommendations are solely based on physical factors. Dimensions, bolt pattern, offset, thread, type of cone in the wheel. No more factors than that are considered in the recommendations.
Then, during installation, you have to check that it works too. In the case of ts, it looks like the thread protrusion is way too small, and this in combination with these nuts caused them to break at the waist. Clearly unfortunate, and it might have worked with better nuts, but it is probably not the supplier's responsibility for this.

Not?

 

[Stefan1972]

Not?
[image]

Even if the company claims so, it is still up to the installer to check everything when mounting on the car. It is a utopia that it would be tested in every detail. I have personally repaired cars for 35 years and worked at a tire workshop for several years. Aftermarket rims and their mounting are always "universal". Drawbacks always appear in some combinations, one must be aware of that. In Sweden, it is still quite free, but the car owner has a big responsibility. In Germany, it's ten times worse. There, everything must be approved for the car model, and no one is allowed to even sell things that are not tested.

 

[Shibby]

A lot of negativity about ABS wheels here but one thing should be clear. A dealer that sells wheels and their accessories never guarantees 100% function or fitment on any car. No one has ever conducted physical tests on all vehicles to ensure anything. The final part is left to the buyer or the one fitting to ensure everything works and "fits."
Their recommendations are based solely on physical factors. Measurements, bolt pattern, offset, thread, type of cone in the rim. No more factors than these are covered in the recommendations.
Then during the installation, you must also check that it works. In the ts case, it looks like the thread exposure is too small and in combination with these nuts caused them to break at the waist. Of course, it's unfortunate and maybe it would have worked with better nuts, but it's hard to blame the supplier for this.

I absolutely disagree with that. On their website, you enter your registration number and you get custom-fit wheels for your specific car.

In their terms of purchase, it states:


Good terms of purchase when buying tires online - ABS Wheels


I can mention that I have tried calling ABSswheels but have only managed to reach their switchboard, then "they will call back." I have also emailed them, but they have stopped responding to my emails.

They refuse to take any responsibility at all.
They refuse to tell what the steel quality is in the nut.
They refuse to explain how it is that the nut breaks before the stud does. I have never experienced anything like it.
They refuse to explain why they state that the M14 nut should have a tightening torque of 100-140Nm but you should check with the tightening torque for each car model and mention that Tesla, for example, has 170Nm on the original nut, but if you tighten to that, their nut/threads break. I tightened to 135Nm, and it broke. Actually, I should be able to tighten to what the manufacturer recommends; it can't be right that they provide a nut that cannot withstand the car's requirements??

They haven't even offered me new nuts or can recommend a workshop to do the job.

 

[Stefan1972]

I absolutely disagree with that. On their website, you input your registration number, and you get custom-fit rims specifically for your car.

In their purchase conditions, it says:

[image]
Good purchase conditions when buying tires online -ABS Wheels


I can mention that I've tried calling ABSwheels but I've only managed to reach their switchboard, then "they should call back." I've also emailed them, but they've stopped responding to my emails.

They refuse to take any responsibility at all.
They refuse to state what steel quality is in the nut.
They refuse to explain why the nut breaks before the stud does. I've never experienced anything like it.
They refuse to explain why they state that the M14 nut should have a torque of 100-140Nm but that you should check the torque for each car model and mention that Tesla, for example, has 170Nm on the original nut. I tightened to 135Nm, and it broke, but I should really be able to tighten it to what the manufacturer recommends according to their statement.
They have not even offered me new nuts or can recommend a workshop.

[image]

but what you highlighted in yellow only pertains to the rims they drill at the supplier's "fitting" the bolt pattern and hub dimension. It doesn't concern possible screw lengths.
The registration number search doesn't work that way either. You still have to check everything. The same applies when buying spare parts, a registration number can point to several different brake pads and discs, and as a buyer, you have to choose the right one or check that what you attach matches.
I understand that as an inexperienced customer, you trust this kind of thing, but it probably states in some fine print that everything still needs to be carefully checked. And rightfully so, as there is no one who can guarantee anything 100% even if they say so. Then you should claim they remove that statement.
There's a lot within cars that work like this. A model-specific exhaust system can also mean you need to adjust and change some things. One model year might have a different middle mount than the other.

But how much thread protrusion do you have then? Put on an original rim and measure the protrusion compared to the ones you bought. The nuts you received might work perfectly on an original rim.

 

[Shibby]

but what you've highlighted only concerns that the rims they drill at the supplier "fit" the bolt pattern and hub dimension. It doesn't concern any potential screw lengths.
Moreover, the license plate search doesn't work that way either. You still have to check everything. The same applies when buying spare parts; a license plate can point to several different brake pads and discs, and as a buyer, you have to choose the right one or check that what you install matches.
I understand that as an unknowledgeable customer, you rely on things like this, but it probably says in some fine print that everything still needs to be carefully checked. And rightly so, because no one can guarantee anything 100% even if they say so. In that case, you would have to demand that they remove that claim.
There are a lot of things with cars like this. A model-adapted exhaust system can also mean that you have to adjust and change some things. One model year might have had a different middle hang than another.

But how much thread protrusion do you have then? Put on an original rim and measure the protrusion compared to the ones you bought. The nuts you received might work perfectly on an original rim.

Sounds almost like you work for them...?
The rims are delivered complete with nuts, nothing bought separately. This should thus be interpreted as a fitment guarantee on the complete package. Additionally, it is the specially drilled rim that determines the thread protrusion, not the included nuts.

 

[Stefan1972]

My point is that regardless of what the company claims, you should have test-mounted and if the error is due to short screws, you should not have mounted but sent the items back and pointed out that their recommendation is incorrect and that it does not match.
No, I don't work there, but I have 35 years of general car tinkering behind me and also some years in a tire workshop.

 

[nino]

Although it is quite difficult as a layman to know if a 9 or 7mm thread is required for the nut to fit, with a 100% fit guarantee according to the website and especially for Tesla, I would probably trust that the stuff I receive is okay.

 

[Stefan1972]

Of course, it's all unfortunate, but you're overinterpreting the "fitment guarantees," which I'm sure more than just you do. It sounds catchy and inspires confidence, but it's still the buyer's responsibility to double-check and verify everything. There are always these kinds of anomalies.
When I worked at the tire company, it was classic with wheels sold to Volvo that they didn't remove the retaining screw for the brake disc. It protrudes on these, and some wheels weren't cast to fit correctly. I can tell you it wasn't just one person who crushed the wheel, but it's similar in that aspect. You have to double-check everything even if they're supposed to fit.