The same happened to me last fall. ABS-wheels sent with weak nuts. I also have a Model3. I went to a tire workshop and they had a thin narrow socket with internal cutters that could be hammered on with some force so it gripped. [image]
Thanks! I'll check with the tire company then! Have you switched to other nuts? I saw this risk from the beginning + risk of corrosion. I've been thinking of switching to hot-dip galvanized carbon steel ones instead but haven't found suitable ones yet.
Thanks! I'll check with the tire shop then! Have you switched to other nuts? I saw this risk from the beginning + risk of corrosion. I've been thinking of switching to hot-dip galvanized in carbon steel instead but haven't found suitable ones yet.
ABS sent new stronger nuts, so I replaced them all immediately. I was afraid more would break when I loosened them, but it went well. If you live near Gothenburg/Mölndal, I can recommend a workshop.
A tap and a stud bolt/stud screw are really not synonymous with each other.
No, I do not order the tool called a tap.
which I have already written.
wheel bolt is what it's called in workshop jargon.
I looked now at my stock pages with suppliers.
wheel hub tap.
What you show as a stud bolt.
A stud bolt has threads at each end but go in different directions.
It should not have splines.
I don't care if the industry has another name, that's not the name that applies in our lists.
that things have different names depending on the industry but are still the same thing is not unusual but don't bring a stud screw to a forestry machine... It won't be correct.
It's called a bolt.
stud bolt.
wheel bolt.
camshaft bolt.
crankshaft position sensor bolt.
Despite this, it's an ordinary screw..
tap is both a tool, but it's also a type of bolt.
once again, sorry for using workshop jargon.. But it's that which is habitual for me..
Well, now I know where not to shop for wheels in the future....
the rim is one thing.
But you can tell what quality the nuts are, then it's better to just buy other ones... the company itself doesn't have to be bad because of that..
I buy a lot of nuts at biltema and they work just fine.
ABS sent new stronger nuts so I replaced all immediately. I was afraid more would break when I loosened them but it went well.
If you live near Gothenburg/Mölndal I can recommend a workshop.
If you do some screwing yourself, I would buy something similar
Picked the first best, so there are probably cheaper ones, but you probably need one with rather thin material
If you don't screw anything, leave it at a workshop.
No, I do not order the tool called "gängtapp."
which I have already written.
The lower part is called hjulbult in workshop language.
I checked none now on my stock pages at suppliers.
hjulnavs gängtapp.
What you show as a stud.
A stud has threads at each end but turns in different directions.
It should not have splines.
I do not care that the industry has another name, it is not the name that applies on our lists.
That things are called differently depending on the industry but are still the same thing is not unusual, but do not come with a "pinnskruv" to a forest machine... That will not be correct.
It is called bolt.
pinnbult.
hjulbult.
camshaft bolt.
crankshaft position sensor bolt.
Despite this, it is a common screw...
gängtapp is both a tool but also a type of bolt.
Once again, sorry for using workshop language.. But that is what is habitual for me..
Googled "hjulnavs gängtapp" and you know what, not a damn screw anywhere..
It is not called gängtapp on any site. A gängtapp is something else. It doesn't matter at all which industry you're in.
Mölndals däckservice behind Astra at Åby-motet. It was just a few weeks ago that I was there with mine so they should remember it. Drove all winter with the broken nut before I took care of it.
Mölndals däckservice behind Astra at Åby-motet. It was just a few weeks ago that I was there with mine, so they should remember it. Drove all winter with the broken nut before I dealt with it.
Yep, have also driven all winter but now it has to come off!
Broken wheel nuts are common on old Porsches with aluminum nuts. The most common way to remove them is with a small hole saw whose inner diameter fits onto the stud.
Mölndals tire service behind Astra by the Åby interchange. It was just a few weeks ago that I was there with mine, so they should remember it. Drove all winter with the damaged nut before I addressed it.
Update:
I was there but they considered the space too tight to fit the hole saw. I have turned to two other workshops and none know how to easily remove the nut to fit a regular hole saw since it's too tight due to the magical special solution.
I have tried the method of drilling a notch and hammering with a sledgehammer/punch but it's too deep to properly access with the punch, and the angle is too bad.
The only remaining option seems to be welding something onto it. The shop, however, said that it will likely destroy the rim.
I have contacted ABSwheels, who disclaim all responsibility for anything related to the installation and refuse to help me. They won't even send new nuts or refer me to a workshop that might have a fitting hole saw. I claim it's a material defect in these damn nuts as one broke during normal tightening and another fell off during the season (just discovered it now). Unclear what happened to it, whether it unwound or broke.
Shibby said:
Violina said:
