Wheel nut broke off - what to do? (help!)

[Micro]

You might not be able to reach with a thin center punch and hit it with a hammer clockwise on the fractured surface itself?
(Hold the center punch at a downward angle)
Hopefully, you should be able to knock it loose and maybe be able to grab it with a socket once it has threaded out a bit.

 

[useless]

admittedly, but it would have been better if everyone checked the matter beforehand instead of just slapping it on like everyone does and dealing with the problems when they arise

You still haven't explained how a regular car owner is supposed to check if the items you get home fit together.

 

[Taxture]

You still haven't explained how an average car owner is supposed to check if the items they receive fit together

The easiest way to do that is by buying original parts

 

[useless]

Isn't it a way to avoid checking?
Stefan has written several times that it is obvious that you have to check that the supplier has sent the right accessories for the rims. The question is how?

 

[Taxture]

If you buy original parts from the manufacturer / dealer / general agent, you can assume that suitable parts are delivered... if you buy aftermarket / "pirate parts" you probably have to check and compare with the manufacturer's specifications. If you don't have the knowledge yourself, then, like with everything else, you should hire a "professional" and hope they know their trade

 

[Dan_Johansson]

If you buy original parts from the manufacturer / retailer / general agent, you can assume that the appropriate parts will be delivered... if you buy aftermarket / "pirate parts," you have to check and compare with the manufacturer's specifications. If you don't have the knowledge yourself, you have to, like with everything else, hire a "professional" and hope that person knows their trade

You're aware that we're talking about car wheels here, right?

 

[Stefan1972]

You still haven't explained how a regular car owner is supposed to check if the items they receive are compatible.

Well, if one doesn't have that knowledge, it's advisable to buy wheels locally from someone who knows. It's the same with everything. If you buy a stove online that lacks a plug and you connect it incorrectly and it gets damaged. Do you blame the stove manufacturer then?

 

[Nyfniken]

If you don't have the knowledge yourself, you have to, as with everything else, hire a "professional" and hope that they know their trade

That's exactly what TS did.

 

[cpalm]

It should thus be interpreted as there being fitting guarantee on the complete package.

Regardless of what guarantees are given, statutory right of complaint also applies.

 

[Nyfniken]

It's the same with everything. If you buy a stove online without a plug and you connect it incorrectly, causing damage, do you blame the stove manufacturer then?

But now the original poster has explained to the stove supplier what kind of kitchen and electrical outlet he has, and the stove supplier has delivered a stove with a plug and additionally a guarantee that it fits.

 

[Shibby]

However, now TS has explained to the stove supplier what kind of kitchen and power outlet he has, and the stove supplier has provided a stove with a plug and also a guarantee that it fits.

Exactly, and in this case, it probably doesn't matter if you choose to buy another plug (nut) since it won't work anyway (the rim is mismatched and provides too short screw length). It's like not being able to connect the right thickness of wires to the stove because there is no space.

 

[useless]

Well, if you don't have that knowledge, it's advisable to buy wheels locally from someone who knows about it. It's the same with everything. If you buy a stove online that lacks a plug and you connect it incorrectly and it gets damaged, do you blame the stove manufacturer then?

You are completely wrong from a consumer rights perspective if you think that as a consumer you always have to double-check that all the items you buy in a package are intended to be used together.

You still haven't answered how a check specifically in this case would be conducted. How would, for example, TS have verified that the nuts provided were made to be tightened with 170 Nm?

 

[Gimp]

What does a new rim cost? If it's cheap, cut away so you can access and grind away what's left on the nut, otherwise, unfortunately, drilling out the stud bolt is the likely solution. Successfully grinding away the entire remaining nut all the way down to the cone without damaging the bolt is practically "impossible." Successfully welding something only to the nut without damaging the bolt is also nearly impossible.

So regardless, the hub needs to be removed and the stud bolt replaced. If you don't have tools for that, you'll need to go to a workshop.

 

[Stefan1972]

You are completely wrong from a consumer rights perspective if you think that as a consumer you always have to double-check that all the gadgets you buy in a package are intended to be used together.

You still haven't answered how a check in this specific case would proceed. How would, for example, TS have checked that the nuts included were made to be tightened with 170 Nm?

well I don't know. As I said, I have worked at a tire workshop and I know how it is. Regardless of how one perceives such sellers' information that it fits, they always include something in the fine print that you should double-check everything. There is no wheel supplier in the world that can have full control over everything and give 100% guarantees on every combo. Catalogs are based on a few parameters, not physical tests of every rim on every car model. One brand of rim can have a 30mm thick hub and another can have 20mm with steel sleeves and the next something completely different. It's completely impossible for it to be right every time. There are never any details on the thickness of the hubs from the supplier either. Now we haven't received any direct facts from TS about how it stands with thread length, but I am quite sure that if it had been normal, you could have tightened the nuts normally and nothing would have happened. It doesn't matter if the nuts had been better or had a 19mm socket and thus been thicker. The thread length wouldn't have been longer because of that and maybe ultimately caused something even worse if a wheel had come off at high speed. With perhaps only 10mm of actual thread engagement, it doesn't take much lateral force before they might be completely stripped.

 

[Shibby]

Well, I don't know about that. I've worked at a tire shop, and I know how it is. Regardless of how one perceives such sellers’ claims that it fits, there’s always something in the fine print saying you should double-check everything. No wheel supplier in the world can have full oversight of everything and give 100% guarantees on every combo. Catalogs are based on a few parameters, not physical tests of every rim on every car model. One wheel brand can have a 30mm thick hub and another can have 20mm with steel sleeves, and the next something entirely different. Completely impossible to get it right every time. There's never any information on the thickness of the hubs from the supplier either.
We haven’t gotten any direct facts from the ts on how the thread length stands, but I'm pretty sure had it been normal, you could tighten the nuts normally, and nothing would have happened. It doesn't matter if the nuts had been better or had a 19mm fit and had been heavier. The thread length would not have been longer because of that and perhaps ultimately caused something even worse if a wheel came off at high speed. With perhaps only 10mm of actual thread engagement, it doesn’t take much lateral force before they might strip completely.

It ended up with the workshop drilling out the stud. There was no other way. It took a few hours and some drill bits because of the hard steel in the screw. Unfortunately, it then turned out that Tesla doesn't have these studs as spare parts, only sells the entire hub.
Current cost to get rid of the nut: about 2500kr.
Depending on whether I can get the right stud or have to use a used wheel hub, it will end up between approximately 3500kr-5500kr.

I am therefore currently searching for a suitable stud from another manufacturer with the following dimensions.


1. Length under head: 46mm
2. Knurl length: 16mm
3. Knurl OD: 15.7mm

Regarding the original problem with incorrect rim/nut:
Measured, and the extension is equally long (11mm) from the rim's flat surface in the screw hole. However, there is still a difference:

• The specially fitted hole in the rim is not as deep as in the original rim, which makes the nut sit a few mm further out.
• The aftermarket nut's cone is a few mm higher than the original nut.
• The aftermarket nut has a few mm of weld at the bottom of the nut section, which means the sleeve doesn’t go as deep down.

Then on top of that, we have:

• The aftermarket nut has a 17mm fit while the original nut has a 21mm fit. There is a BIG difference in shear area and especially shear stress in the fracture section just because of this.
  
• The aftermarket nut most likely has too low strength. The original bolt is most likely 10.9 (or 12.9) and therefore the original nut also has 10 or 12 in strength. This is NOT what this aftermarket nut has, I can say based on how soft it is!

How the hell should this responsibility not fall on ABS wheels who ship a complete wheel package with specially adapted rims and nuts?? It is utterly IMPOSSIBLE to put this responsibility on a mechanic who has 5 minutes to slap on the wheels during a change!