What kind of building board is this? Is it masonite? It's hard to see, maybe it's about 1cm thick.

I would like to fill and paint on them, but first they need to be removed. Is it doomed to fail and just throw them away and put up plasterboard or something else instead?
 
  • Wooden wall paneling, possibly hardboard, showing seams and some surface damage, discussed for renovation.
Could be Tretex, is it a bit soft?
Take that crap down and put up OSB+gips and you'll have a good start.
 
Yes, soft it is, there are boards underneath these that I thought were tretex, they are gray, look like clay mixed with wood type.
 
Some form of Träullit?
 
This is what it looks like
 
  • Damaged wall with torn wallpaper, exposed plaster, and a plastic pipe beside wood paneling.
That beige thing in strips on the left side of the picture seems to be treetex/tretex, but the gray one on the right looks like cement-bonded fibers, so it's probably some kind of träullit.
 
Ok, then the question is what I should do. The wall looks like this today: tretex, träullit, log wall, fiber cement boards. If I tear everything down, there won't be much insulation left except for the logs.
 
Uttis said:
Ok, then the question is what I should do. The wall looks like this today: tretex, träullit, timber wall, eternit panels. If I tear everything off, there won't be much insulation left except for the timber.
One idea could be to tear away all the material to the timber, frame up with 45x45 including insulation, and put OSB+gypsum on the outside of this.

With this solution, you get:
Convenient installation space for electrical/plumbing
Easier comfort insulation
Possibility to straighten potentially crooked walls
Good foundation for upcoming surface layers
 
Yes, that thought has existed, although it gets a bit awkward around windows and doors, but it's probably just about an extra 25mm. I have more or less decided to throw out the tretex and install plasterboard; is it because you want OSB behind to have something to screw into?
 
You can easily finish windows and doors with length-cut raw wood or MDF. It rarely looks odd when it's done.

Nowadays, it's generally recommended to use double boards, and since the cost for OSB is similar to drywall, and you also get the advantage of having something to screw into, the choice seems obvious to me to put up OSB behind the drywall. In the best of worlds, you would put real plywood everywhere, but then there's a noticeably increased cost. I leave plywood+drywall for wet rooms and kitchens, and set OSB+drywall in the rest, a workable compromise.
 
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