Is it meant to be screwed into the ground? Looks like the right thing to withstand a storm!
When we had a dog, we had something similar that we screwed into the ground and tied the dog to when we visited friends with gardens without fences
Imagine the interesting (read unique) winter problems we have down here in Skåne (maybe in Halland too); storms, rain that turns into icy roads, and if it ever snows, the roads get snowed in again
When we had a dog, we had something similar that we screwed into the ground and tied the dog to when we visited friends with gardens without fences
Imagine the interesting (read unique) winter problems we have down here in Skåne (maybe in Halland too); storms, rain that turns into icy roads, and if it ever snows, the roads get snowed in again
Last edited:
I have these, and yes, they're weaker but they absolutely hold. I used large ratchet straps over a 6x4m party tent that acted as a site hut and attached them to the screws. They stood firm over autumn, winter, and summer without the slightest problem, and that year we had some real storms and lots of snow. No problem getting them all the way down either.Lexington said:
Consider whether you should space out your fence in the future. This will filter the wind differently and reduce wind load on the fence. Another way is to place every other board on the backside. This way, you still get good privacy protection with significantly less load on the fence.
Thank you for all the tips!
Step one will be initially stabilizing in the fall and then taking it down by spring. If that's not enough, it will be iron pipes, and if that's not enough, it will be digging and casting!
Changing the design or spacing out the fence is not an option, but thank you for the tips anyway!
Step one will be initially stabilizing in the fall and then taking it down by spring. If that's not enough, it will be iron pipes, and if that's not enough, it will be digging and casting!
Changing the design or spacing out the fence is not an option, but thank you for the tips anyway!
Since the weak points seem to be the posts located in clay soil, I recommend that you drive and pick up a pile of crushed aggregate. Then dig around the loose posts, support them with braces when they are completely vertical, fill with crushed aggregate around them, and start pounding down the crushed aggregate firmly. Feel free to use a sledgehammer first, or a large stone to compress it as much as possible. Then take a sturdy iron bar, turn it upside down so the handle points downward, and start pounding it into the crushed aggregate with great force to drive down stones that are deeper, so they in turn compress the crushed aggregate and the clay soil around, until it can no longer be compressed.
Working with the bar allows you to apply extremely high force on a small area, which means you can compress significantly more compared to using just a stone to hammer with, for example.
When you've done this, you will notice that you need to add more crushed aggregate, as it has been so compressed that it has sunk. Then continue until it's filled up to almost ground level, except for 1-2 cm.
Finish by spreading soil and sowing grass when the time is right.
I promise you that it will hold very well. If it's still not sufficient, which would surprise me, you will either need to dig deeper to install a longer post, or alternatively use a brace, which isn't very visually appealing.
People always wonder why my posts are so stable and think that I've dug them incredibly deep. The secret rather lies in the groundwork done around the posts. Because it is actually true that the more something slackens, the more unstable it becomes under external influences. It's a bit like a screw that is loose. Such a screw requires only a little vibration to eventually come completely loose, whereas if it had been tightened a bit, so it doesn't move with the vibrations, it would have stayed in place.
Merry Christmas!
Working with the bar allows you to apply extremely high force on a small area, which means you can compress significantly more compared to using just a stone to hammer with, for example.
When you've done this, you will notice that you need to add more crushed aggregate, as it has been so compressed that it has sunk. Then continue until it's filled up to almost ground level, except for 1-2 cm.
Finish by spreading soil and sowing grass when the time is right.
I promise you that it will hold very well. If it's still not sufficient, which would surprise me, you will either need to dig deeper to install a longer post, or alternatively use a brace, which isn't very visually appealing.
People always wonder why my posts are so stable and think that I've dug them incredibly deep. The secret rather lies in the groundwork done around the posts. Because it is actually true that the more something slackens, the more unstable it becomes under external influences. It's a bit like a screw that is loose. Such a screw requires only a little vibration to eventually come completely loose, whereas if it had been tightened a bit, so it doesn't move with the vibrations, it would have stayed in place.
Merry Christmas!
Move every other board-length to the other side of the posts.
I don't really understand how this would make the plinths more stable.Nissepisse said:
Isn’t it essentially the same as digging around the post to reinforce and add more concrete?Martin_B said:Since the weak points seem to be the posts that lie in clay soil, I recommend you go and get a heap of samkross. Then dig around the loose posts, brace them with a support when they are completely vertical, fill with samkross around and then start pounding the samkross down properly. Preferably take a sledgehammer first, or a large stone to compress it as much as possible. Then take a hefty iron bar, turn it upside down so the handle points downwards, and start pounding into the samkross with great force to push down stones that are deeper, so they in turn compress the samkross and clay soil around, until it can’t be compressed anymore.
The work with the bar allows you to apply an extremely large force on a small area, which means you can compress much more compared to if you only had a stone to pound with, for example.
When you’ve done this, you will notice you need to add more samkross since it has become so compressed that it has sunk. Then continue until it is filled up to almost ground level, leaving only 1-2 cm.
Finish by sprinkling soil over and sow grass when the time is right.
I promise you that it will hold really well. If it’s still not sufficient, which would surprise me, then you either have to dig deeper to install a longer post or set a brace, which isn’t so pretty.
People always wonder why my posts/pillars are so stable, and think I’ve dug them really deep. The secret lies more in the groundwork you do around the posts. Because it’s actually true, the more something loosens, the looser it becomes with external impact. It’s a bit like a screw that is loose. Such a screw only needs a few vibrations to eventually come completely undone, whereas if it had been tightened a bit at least, so it doesn’t move with the vibrations, it would stay in place.
Merry Christmas!
Nissepisse said:
No, exactly, and as mentioned, it's not an option since the building permit for the fence would have to be changed plus all the work to modify it, so it would probably be significantly more expensive than casting/changing the foundations.Martin_B said:Don't understand how this would make the foundations more stable.
Homeowner
· Västernorrland
· 2 541 posts
Do you think someone would report you because the building permit says that the boards should be on one side only?
No, it's not quite the same. If you add more around the footing, it will become heavier, but the heavier footing will still move against the surrounding soil and will sway more and more with each storm.Lexington said:
If you do as I have described, you will have compressed the surrounding soil as well, ensuring that the footing is wedged in place, so to speak. It won't sway significantly and will likely withstand storms, provided that the footings are deep enough in relation to the height of the fence. I think a third of the fence's height is sufficient as long as the ground work is done well.