10,720 views ·
7 replies
11k views
7 replies
rule new wall on the existing old one
Need to frame a wall to attach the kitchen. This is a semi-detached house, with the neighbor living on the other side of the wall.
Can you frame it up and attach it to the existing interior wall where the kitchen was originally? I was thinking of attaching the studs with angle brackets to the old wall.
Should you insulate or is it enough to frame and put up drywall?
The reason is that it makes it a bit easier to rewire, you don't need to cut into the wall to run new pipes, etc. Plus, then I know the screws are securely attached to the studs.
Can you frame it up and attach it to the existing interior wall where the kitchen was originally? I was thinking of attaching the studs with angle brackets to the old wall.
Should you insulate or is it enough to frame and put up drywall?
The reason is that it makes it a bit easier to rewire, you don't need to cut into the wall to run new pipes, etc. Plus, then I know the screws are securely attached to the studs.
Member
· Västra götaland
· 118 posts
See no reason to insulate that wall, not from a heat perspective at least, as both sides of the wall are warm.
However, you can insulate against sound if that is a concern.
//
However, you can insulate against sound if that is a concern.
//
The idea of also using an OSB board sounds like a good idea. The only problem is that I have a doorway to consider, and there's a risk that the countertop will hit the door frame.NetNut said:
I will check once I've torn out the existing kitchen to see how much studs, OSB board, and drywall will protrude from the wall.
Otherwise, I'll add extra studs where I know I'll have other things, like a wall shelf or similar.
It's enough to set 28x70 on the existing wall to run the electricity. And where you want the outlet, use a hole saw in the old wall so that you have some space backward. So that the new outlet protrudes a bit into the old wall.
This way, you save some space forward. But at the same time, I don't quite understand the point of it all. Can't you/aren't you allowed to remove the boards that are on the existing wall? If you don't want to use force, you can find the screws in the drywall with a magnet.
This way, you save some space forward. But at the same time, I don't quite understand the point of it all. Can't you/aren't you allowed to remove the boards that are on the existing wall? If you don't want to use force, you can find the screws in the drywall with a magnet.
I might add that I have used 28x70 for kitchen cabinet framing, and on top of that, OSB + gypsum. According to reports, plywood/OSB on the wall should be sufficient for kitchen cabinets, but you are as you are, and 28x70 is easy to work with.
Moderator
· Stockholm
· 57 860 posts
It is sufficient to frame with, for example, a gelspanel of 28mm. That's enough to accommodate the electrical conduits.
Keep in mind that if you have a wall against the semi-detached neighbor, it is probably a firewall. In that case, you are not allowed to run any electrical wiring in the existing wall. You must not make any holes in the drywall (if it is considered a firewall).
Keep in mind that if you have a wall against the semi-detached neighbor, it is probably a firewall. In that case, you are not allowed to run any electrical wiring in the existing wall. You must not make any holes in the drywall (if it is considered a firewall).
Well, it depends on how the wall is constructed.
Sometimes in semi-detached houses, there are two separate walls with a gap.
And it's the thickness of the insulation that determines it.
But I have to say I'm a bit unsure about it.
I'm not completely certain that one is not allowed to do anything at all with the wall.
Sometimes in semi-detached houses, there are two separate walls with a gap.
And it's the thickness of the insulation that determines it.
But I have to say I'm a bit unsure about it.
I'm not completely certain that one is not allowed to do anything at all with the wall.
Click here to reply
