that works. you can run extra studs or a piece of OSB as someone mentioned. if you make as straight a "cut" as you can, it will be easier to plaster the joint later. Bevel the edges of the plasterboard and apply fiberglass tape or paper tape and plaster over, so the joint doesn't crack in the future, since you have wooden studs.
but if you're doing that much, I would almost suggest putting up new plasterboard. a sheet costs like 80 kronor
but if you're doing that much, I would almost suggest putting up new plasterboard. a sheet costs like 80 kronor
So, now I have torn and sanded away 5 layers of wallpaper from these plasterboard walls. I'm definitely not going to change plasterboards now all of a suddendanpih said:but if you're going to do so much, I would almost put up new plasterboard. A sheet costs like 80 kronor
I would like to finish before the end of summer ..phew
Almost right.bhenke said:Excuse my drawing, but is this what you're thinking?
I.e., cut a bit more and then slide in, for example, extra studs like this? And fasten the extra stud diagonally to the lower existing one and then tidy up and apply additional drywall? Or how else would you attach them?
Apologies in advance for the questions
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Remove 10 cm more of the existing drywall.
(or whatever, any amount between 5 and 50 cm is probably sensible
)Insert a horizontal stud, but best with a 22mm plank or strips of OSB/plywood that are as long as the space between existing studs. (a few cm shorter doesn't matter.)
Screw through the existing drywall with drywall screws, about 25 cm between screws, so half the plank/OSB-strip is behind the existing drywall, the other half visible in the opening.
Cut drywall to fit and cover the hole at the bottom, screw in place. Tape with paper tape and spackle everything nicely.
And the alternative to all this is if the baseboard will completely cover the now cut-out part, you can actually skip all the extra work and just cut the drywall as neatly as possible, attach it, then spackle and continue.
Hello.
Thank you for the responses. It's between 5 cm to 6.5 cm from an unlaid laminate floor up to the cropped gypsum today. I think I'll take the easy route and simply try to hide it behind a substantial molding. However, I will try to tidy up the line after the drying technique's cut-out so I can place supportive pieces at the bottom.
Thanks for the input.
Thank you for the responses. It's between 5 cm to 6.5 cm from an unlaid laminate floor up to the cropped gypsum today. I think I'll take the easy route and simply try to hide it behind a substantial molding. However, I will try to tidy up the line after the drying technique's cut-out so I can place supportive pieces at the bottom.
Thanks for the input.
5-6 cm is not even substantial